85 FJ clutch slave maintenance

[Kennyg]

Hello all, recently picked up my third FJ that had been in storage for a few years + and now have running but clutch that was initially dry had master seals replaced and still no luck...inspection of slave cylinder also showed signs of seizing so I removed and cleaned to smooth operation.I will replace the seals on it also but want to know is there a way to know if the pushrod is also functioning properly before I reassemble and pressurize the system??  Also if the pushrod is removed should any other parts pop out? Can the pushrod be tested for proper operation by pushing in manually...ie. with a piece of wood or does it require much more force?? Thanks

[rktmanfj]

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=672.0

[Kennyg]

Thanks for the link but I was more concerned with the pushrod questions.??

[RichBaker]

I wouldn't worry about the pushrod.... If it hasn't been apart, everything should still be there and I've never heard of one siezing.

[Kennyg]

Thanks, I had removed the rod to clean and had no ball come out.Can you manually depress this rod to confirm clutch disengaging? I am worried about blowing the new seals if the pushrod is not operating properly and creates to much pressure.

[andyb]

Pull the clutch cover and you'll need to pull the pressure plate off the clutch pack.  The pushrod actuates against that plate, more force than you're going to get out of your fingers easily.  If the pushrod is straight and not burred up, it's highly unlikely that it's the problem.

[Dan Filetti]

The slave is a known failure point on the FJ.  The masters do fail as well, but less so than the slaves.  If you do not bleed the clutch well, and it can be a tricky job sometimes, this too will make the clutch not disengage well.

My advice: rebuild the slave, be extra meticulous while bleeding, and I'd bet $1.00 that solves the problem.  By the way, I'm with Andy, the issue is almost certainly not on the other side of that push rod, it's the slave/ air in the line...

My $0.02

Dan 

[andyb]

Well, if it's sat long enough I'm not sure that I agree.  I'd pull the clutch cover and take out the clutch plates (in order, retainers, spring, more retainers, and clutch pack [frictions and steels]).  Soak the clutch plates in oil a bit, reassemble.  Careful on the gasket, it'll tear when you take the cover off most likely.  You can make one from gasket material easily enough, or buy one.  Don't use a bunch of RTV or whatever, do it properly.

But most likely the slave's seals are shot.  Super common issue.  Fix that first before digging into the clutch pack itself.  You have a lot of leverage on the pushrod with it mounted up and working properly to break the clutch pack free, and once it's broken loose it should work, though it may become apparent that it's got other problems.

I'd also suggest an oil change quite soon after getting it ridable.  If the clutch fibers have frozen to the steels, and/or if they're dry, they can put quite a lot of crap into your oil very quickly.  While you're at it, it'd be wise to pull the oil pan off (easy to do, exhaust probably should come off to give yourself room, and then you'll want exhaust gaskets to put it back on), check/clean the pickup also.  Then you're pretty much starting with a known quantity all the way around (assuming it runs okay and pulls hard, otherwise a compression check/leakdown may be in order, in search of stuck rings and the like).

[Kennyg]

Thankyou all, I will forge ahead cautiously taking all into consideration!  I appreciate the helping hands.Take care.

[chapindad]

Kenny,

I would put it back together and give it a go.  The slave unit is not hard to take off and on, so you are not out much time if it doesn't work.  But I had mine in storage for 3 years and the clutch slave was toast, but everything else was great.  I would check all your brakes because the fluid is probably in terrible shape.

Later


John