YZF600 forks-years of choice?

[Pat Conlon]

it's not hard to get me confused Andy...but what I'm intending to do is put YZF600 forks AND front wheel on my 86' FJ...are you saying the FJ speedo drive cable will hook up to the YZF wheel?....also, I know it would depend on tire size but wondering about speedo accuracy?..thanks

No, it will be too small. Won't fit over the axle.  The FJ speedo drive is sized for the FJ's 15mm axle and the YZF600 uses a 17mm front axle.

[BSI]

it's not hard to get me confused Andy...but what I'm intending to do is put YZF600 forks AND front wheel on my 86' FJ...are you saying the FJ speedo drive cable will hook up to the YZF wheel?....also, I know it would depend on tire size but wondering about speedo accuracy?..thanks

No, it will be too small. Won't fit over the axle.  The FJ speedo drive is sized for the FJ's 15mm axle and the YZF600 uses a 17mm front axle.

so is there any way of getting a mechanical speedo hooked up?...don't mean to wear you guys out but the info is much appreciated

[Pat Conlon]

No worries mate,
Yes, just use the mechanical speedo drive off the YZF600. Your FJ cable will attach to the YZF speedo drive quite nicely....Pat

[BSI]

No worries mate,
Yes, just use the mechanical speedo drive off the YZF600. Your FJ cable will attach to the YZF speedo drive quite nicely....Pat

I should have figured that one out...it always seems like a dumb question after you get enlightened

[/quote]
IMHO, For street use 298mm rotors with R-1 calipers and a 14mm master cylinder or a radial master cylinder is more than fine.
For a track tool, where you need the extra thermal mass for repeated braking, 320mm is the way to go.
The only draw back on the YZF600 front end swap (again IMHO) are the 41mm stanchion tubes, spindly on a 550lb bike by today's standards.
A FZR or YZF750 USDs would be more rigid, or a 1997 YZF1000 Thunder ace conventional (cartridge) fork which uses the stouter 48mm stanchion tubes. [/quote]

I somehow missed seeing you'd posted that earlier Pat....I'm sure the 298mm would be a sufficient upgrade to my current stuff...honestly, I couldn't tell you if I've ever known the difference of squeezing on a 298 or 320mm, I'd been away from bikes a few yrs until I got my FJ..

[/quote] However, IIRC wasn't Bill was talking about going back to the YZF600 front forks specifically because of the 41mm tubes?
Something about a better feel on the track, than the more rigid front USD's? [/quote]

I did read that and the other favorable comments on the FYZ/cartridge forks.... on a road I ride often, a corner with continuing ripples/ridges that my forks are terribly dangerous on made me an easy sell on the idea of fork upgrade since I was already wanting to get a 17" frt wheel...and that I was able to get the necessary FZR1000 triple clamps helped me make the decision on the YZF600 forks

and you said..."R-1 calipers and a 14mm master cylinder or a radial master cylinder is more than fine", that's the info I'm looking for...starting with a blank slate, I'm just trying to figure what's the best options I should put on my future parts target list...like everyone else here, if I'm gonna do something, I want to do it the best I can and that's why I'm on here searching info and looking for opinions...thanks Pat & Andy for your help!

Louie

[Pat Conlon]

it's not hard to get me confused Andy...but what I'm intending to do is put YZF600 forks AND front wheel on my 86' FJ...are you saying the FJ speedo drive cable will hook up to the YZF wheel?....also, I know it would depend on tire size but wondering about speedo accuracy?..thanks

No, it will be too small. Won't fit over the axle.  The FJ speedo drive is sized for the FJ's 15mm axle and the YZF600 uses a 17mm front axle.

Hey Louie, ooops, my fault, I may have caused some confusion. I missed a important word in your question when you asked about "the FJ speedo drive cable"
I'll change my answer to *YES* The FJ speedo drive cable will hook up to the YZF speedo drive ....  I missed the word "cable" in your question.
Sorry 'bout that.... 

[BSI]

it's not hard to get me confused Andy...but what I'm intending to do is put YZF600 forks AND front wheel on my 86' FJ...are you saying the FJ speedo drive cable will hook up to the YZF wheel?....also, I know it would depend on tire size but wondering about speedo accuracy?..thanks

No, it will be too small. Won't fit over the axle.  The FJ speedo drive is sized for the FJ's 15mm axle and the YZF600 uses a 17mm front axle.

Hey Louie, ooops, my fault, I may have caused some confusion. I missed a important word in your question when you asked about "the FJ speedo drive cable"
I'll change my answer to *YES* The FJ speedo drive cable will hook up to the YZF speedo drive ....  I missed the word "cable" in your question.
Sorry 'bout that.... 

no problem Pat...so far your answers have brought a smile to my face when I'm stressing over if the forks I ordered would work and have set me free to continue my search for more parts and to spend more money than I should!...it's good thing I'm single and have my priorities in order I guess!...any importance of having R-1 calipers over the YZF600 ones ?....your choice of preferred master cylinder(s) to get ?... if I need a 5" or a 5.5" rear wheel is also wearing on me ?...I know riding habits will be part of that equation I suppose...thanks again

[Pat Conlon]

The R-1 Blue spot or Gold spot Monoblock calipers are what you want. Not the radial mounted ones...they won't fit your YZF lower sliders.
The FJR1300 used a 14mm piston in their master cylinder (m/c) so that is a good choice, *however* not the only choice for master cylinders. I just like them 'cause they have a neat adjustable lever...Check the Files section I think someone posted some other 14mm m/c's you can use.
If you have not yet, you need to change out those soft rotten oem rubber brake lines...(actually like about 10 years ago)

I've had both rear rims, the YZF600 5" wide rim with a 170/60-17 tire and my current YZF1000 Thunder Ace rear rim 5.5" wide with a 180/55-17 tire and in all honesty at my level of riding skill, I can hardly tell the difference.
Although...There is a huge difference between the oem FJ 16" rear rim with the 150/80-16 bias ply donut, and the modern 17" radial rubber, a huge difference.
I guess the 5.5" rear rim with the 180/55 is a tiny tiny bit more stable with the bike loaded with luggage and healed over in a fast sweeper...

Flip a coin...5" rear rim w/170/60-17 rubber, or 5.5" rear rim w/180/55-17 rubber, your are a winner either way with the huge selection of modern 17" rear tires.

You need to go out to your garage...right now....turn on the lights.....I know it's late....turn on some tunes....screw the neighbors.....brew a pot of coffee....get out your tools....and take off that weak sauce stock FJ rear shock and throw it away....do it now.   Then scrimp and save for a Penske adjustable shock.
This IMHO should be #1 on your list of mods.   It's only money and you're single.....No big deal.....   Cheers!  Pat

[BSI]

The R-1 Blue spot or Gold spot Monoblock calipers are what you want. Not the radial mounted ones...they won't fit your YZF lower sliders.
The FJR1300 used a 14mm piston in their master cylinder (m/c) so that is a good choice, *however* not the only choice for master cylinders. I just like them 'cause they have a neat adjustable lever...Check the Files section I think someone posted some other 14mm m/c's you can use.
If you have not yet, you need to change out those soft rotten oem rubber brake lines...(actually like about 10 years ago)

I've had both rear rims, the YZF600 5" wide rim with a 170/60-17 tire and my current YZF1000 Thunder Ace rear rim 5.5" wide with a 180/55-17 tire and in all honesty at my level of riding skill, I can hardly tell the difference.
Although...There is a huge difference between the oem FJ 16" rear rim with the 150/80-16 bias ply donut, and the modern 17" radial rubber, a huge difference.
I guess the 5.5" rear rim with the 180/55 is a tiny tiny bit more stable with the bike loaded with luggage and healed over in a fast sweeper...

Flip a coin...5" rear rim w/170/60-17 rubber, or 5.5" rear rim w/180/55-17 rubber, your are a winner either way with the huge selection of modern 17" rear tires.

You need to go out to your garage...right now....turn on the lights.....I know it's late....turn on some tunes....screw the neighbors.....brew a pot of coffee....get out your tools....and take off that weak sauce stock FJ rear shock and throw it away....do it now.   Then scrimp and save for a Penske adjustable shock.
This IMHO should be #1 on your list of mods.   It's only money and you're single.....No big deal.....   Cheers!  Pat

"Life is simple...according to Pat"...haha, I love it...very good neighbor advice BTW...shocks?..I actually have 2 86' FJ's and one of them has a New shock and the other one's shock needs gas?...so, again I'm confused with more questions to follow...but my laptop battery is a fading ghost saying goodbye...and so is my bourbon...Cheers!

[JCainFJ]

You will need:

1. 1997 or later YZF600r forks (the 1995 forks are not cartrage and the 1996 are forks are too rare)
2. 1987-1988 FZR1000 triple clamps (this is the hard part to find )
3. 1997 or later YZF600r wheel compleat, rim, discs, axle, spacers
4. 1997 or later YZF600r front fender, both parts
5. 1997 or later YZF600r calipers and mastercylinder (I have a pair of gold spot monoblocks from a 2002 R1 on my FJ)
6. Fresh FJ spec steering head bearings
7. Braded brake lines
8. Race Tech compression and rebound gold valves, seals, bushings, wipers, springs, and cartrage fluid (some folks use Spectro 125-150 cartrage fork fluid because it costs less)
9. FJ to FZR bar adapters (this is a part that I make that lets you use the 6mm indexing screw on the FJ bars)
10. New tires (I recommend the new Avon Storm 2 Ultra)


I've done 7 or 8 of these YZF fork swaps and they work great. If you have any questions at all send me a PM I will help all that I can!

  Ride Well,
  Jon

[craigo]

The FJR1300 used a 14mm piston in their master cylinder (m/c) so that is a good choice, *however* not the only choice for master cylinders. I just like them 'cause they have a neat adjustable lever...Check the Files section I think someone posted some other 14mm m/c's you can use.
If you have not yet, you need to change out those soft rotten oem rubber brake lines...(actually like about 10 years ago)

Cheers!  Pat

The 2006 FJR master cylinder that I purchased was 15mm. So be careful and ask before you purchase one. Also, for some reason, the brake light switch I purchased for it works exactly opposite of the stock FJ switch.  When you grab the brake, the paddle on the other side of the pivot releases the pin on the switch.  This then turned the brake light off.  I think the switch was built incorrectly, but can not get Yamaha or anyone else to confirm this.

CraigO

[Pat Conlon]

The 2006 FJR master cylinder that I purchased was 15mm. So be careful and ask before you purchase one. Also, for some reason, the brake light switch I purchased for it works exactly opposite of the stock FJ switch.  When you grab the brake, the paddle on the other side of the pivot releases the pin on the switch.  This then turned the brake light off.  I think the switch was built incorrectly, but can not get Yamaha or anyone else to confirm this.
CraigO

Yes, I remember now. Thanks Craig. We checked and found out that All FJR1300's both ABS and NonABS bikes use the same m/c (part# W2587)
Craig checked and the Yamaha folks said that the FJR1300 m/c piston bore was 15mm diameter and not 14mm like we thought.
I *think* I have a FJR m/c but apparently not....I know that my m/c has a cast 14 on the body and it looks like the FJR m/c but maybe I got it from a different bike.....I have to go back and check my records. I *know* that I have a FJR clutch m/c.....

[Harvy]

The 2006 FJR master cylinder that I purchased was 15mm. So be careful and ask before you purchase one. Also, for some reason, the brake light switch I purchased for it works exactly opposite of the stock FJ switch.  When you grab the brake, the paddle on the other side of the pivot releases the pin on the switch.  This then turned the brake light off.  I think the switch was built incorrectly, but can not get Yamaha or anyone else to confirm this.
CraigO

Yes, I remember now. Thanks Craig. We checked and found out that All FJR1300's both ABS and NonABS bikes use the same m/c (part# W2587)
Craig checked and the Yamaha folks said that the FJR1300 m/c piston bore was 15mm diameter and not 14mm like we thought.
I *think* I have a FJR m/c but apparently not....I know that my m/c has a cast 14 on the body and it looks like the FJR m/c but maybe I got it from a different bike.....I have to go back and check my records. I *know* that I have a FJR clutch m/c.....

Both my clutch and brake m/c's have been replaced. I didn't like the coffin style fluid containers anyway, so bought a couple of "urin cup" models to replace them. The brake master is from an R1 (2003 from memory) and the clutch master is from a YZF750 ('97 I believe). They are both 14mm.

Harvy

[axiom-r]

Great thread!  I am now receiving "mod" by I.V. Drip down in the garage!   

Couple of quick things-

1- In my effort to use 2007 R1 parts for my mod I bought a Thunderace swingarm, rear wheel and cushdrive as a back-up if the R1 stuff didn't work. Since the R1 stuff is successfully mounted the Thunderace parts are available- BSI, if you are thinking about upgrading the rear end too, I got a parts stash for ya. I am willing to sell these for what I paid and shipping.  PM me if you are interested.

2- Is it a concern to have 14 vs. 15 mm on the clutch m/c?  I am planning using an YZF750 m/c similar to Harvy's the only issue I have with it is that the lever does not match the R1 radial m/c for the front brake- they are both the same color but the similarities end there.... 

tim

[carsick]

1- In my effort to use 2007 R1 parts for my mod I bought a Thunderace swingarm, rear wheel and cushdrive as a back-up if the R1 stuff didn't work. Since the R1 stuff is successfully mounted the Thunderace parts are available- BSI, if you are thinking about upgrading the rear end too, I got a parts stash for ya. I am willing to sell these for what I paid and shipping.  PM me if you are interested.

tim

ah carsick, I think its the R1 arm that is the evil, frustrating PITA!!  But if I can get it to work you are first in line for the T-Ace!  I also collected up the FZ1 wheels so if the R1 stuff goes on I will have most of the stuff needed for another FJ conversion.

I did find this one pretty quick from a dismantler in Florida- $150 shipped.

Dude, I think I had dibs- I only mention this because your bike is ungodly cool and and I would die to have a part that almost made it onto your bike. Maybe you could sign it or something for me.
Doug 

[BSI]

Tim..thanks but in fairness, carsick is your man..I honestly have no desire to replace a swingarm (yet) but the rear 16" being gone is 2nd on my wish list for sure...but don't tell Pat!!

Jon, thanks very much!..and thanks everyone on all the m/c info...I'm kinda getting ahead of myself there

Pat...thanks for all the info on parts and directions on life..LOL!..I need it!

here's my shock scenario Pat...bike I'm riding has a Progressive Suspension shock with remote reservoir....it needs to be gassed up whenever I can get that arranged so I'm not sure how good the shock is yet actually

I bought another 86' from a guy moving..he'd rebuilt the rear end: new wheel bearings, new tire, chain, new seat, etc and a brand new clean Yamaha Shock that cost him a few pennies...he then saw oil in his carbs, intended to pull the head and check motor...he took the gas tank off and then let bike set for 1-2 yrs...I was very happy to take home an identical back up bike cheap...sorry for long story..but if I take a corner hard, my rearend gets squirrely but hopefully gassing up my shock will help...my question is has anyone ever ran the Progressive Suspension Shock ?  mines really old I think but it's not leaking either...but it's hard to look at a NEW FACTORY shock and not want to switch it to my riding bike but I've never heard anything good on the stock unit...are they bad when new also?

so that's where I'm at on shocks Pat....and after you brain storm all this info, I know what your answer is I suppose...Penske!..right?...anybody need a new factory shock LOL

cheers