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pod filters and carb jetting

Started by Rampant_ant, April 25, 2011, 01:35:42 AM

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RichBaker

Quote from: turbocamino on July 01, 2011, 02:25:50 PM
Quote from: Lotsokids on July 01, 2011, 06:11:33 AM
I got the beast on the road today. It pulls very hard and smooth - maybe a little more power than before... I can't really tell. It runs differently, but I can't describe how. Accelleration is very smooth, but when I hold it at 3,000-3,500 RPM while riding it sounds like it's gurgling or sputtering a little. All other ranges are clear. Is this normal?
You are into the needle jet area now....you may need to raise them some...and your air/fuel screws need to be out to maybe 3 turns...this gave mine a nice clean transition and smoothed things out at 3-4000 rpm. 

Unless you installed bigger pilots..... I have #40s in mine and the screws are all around 1 turn.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

Tengu

Hey, Ive got a question or two...

Im thinking of getting some pod filters for my 1990 FJ

Been recommended to get UNI dual pods
How long do these last before need to replace?
Whats the best oil to use? Locally I have seen Motul (and nothing else)
What is best to clean them with? And how often?

Also been told that if I leave the OEM exhaust on that I should not need to change carb jets

Also do I need to oil the crank case breather filter?
And can someone explain the crankcase breather function please?
I had an instance where this hose came off from the airbox and the engine ran like crap and was spitting fuel (very much like what happened when a carbie boot to the airbox came loose)

thanks
James

Harvy

Quote from: Tengu on July 05, 2011, 07:21:29 PM
Hey, Ive got a question or two...

Im thinking of getting some pod filters for my 1990 FJ

Been recommended to get UNI dual pods
How long do these last before need to replace?
Whats the best oil to use? Locally I have seen Motul (and nothing else)
What is best to clean them with? And how often?

Also been told that if I leave the OEM exhaust on that I should not need to change carb jets

Also do I need to oil the crank case breather filter?
And can someone explain the crankcase breather function please?
I had an instance where this hose came off from the airbox and the engine ran like crap and was spitting fuel (very much like what happened when a carbie boot to the airbox came loose)

thanks
James

James..... my first set of Dual Pods lasted 5 years, with regular 6 monthly cleaning and re-oiling. I'm on my second set now (thanks Randy).
I've only ever used UNI filter oil - still on the original 1 litre bottle.
True - I doubt you would need to change jets if you stick to the relatively more restrictive OEM exhaust as you are not changing the back pressure (but you will probably have to tweek the tuning at the pilot jets).
No, you do not need to oil the crankcase filter - oil in the crankcase will oil it for you - it is allowing pressure out of the crankcase, not drawing air in. Mine is a paper type contained in a metal mesh, I just wash it in some Mineral Tups if it gets too filthy.
The breather allows crankcase pressure to escape (pressure in the crankcase is mainly due to the fact that there is always some compression leakage past the piston rings) - with the OEM air box this pressure is introduced into the airbox on the filtered side and this somewhat oil laden air is then combusted (hence an over-filling of oil in the crankcase will produce a smoking exhaust). If the hose falls off the airbox, unfiltered and un-pressurised air is introduced  into the intake - which in turn alters the vacuum that the carbs see - thus altering the tune.


Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

Tengu

Great - thanks for that, makes much more sense now
Quote from: Harvy on July 05, 2011, 08:48:47 PM
I've only ever used UNI filter oil - still on the original 1 litre bottle.
True - I doubt you would need to change jets if you stick to the relatively more restrictive OEM exhaust as you are not changing the back pressure (but you will probably have to tweek the tuning at the pilot jets)

I will be getting my pods from Randy as soon as I get my head around everything!
I havent heard back from him yet if he sells the UNI filter oil as I couldnt find it on his site (that might be my fault!)
What to clean the pod filters with tho? Stick with turps for all? The motul cleaner looks like a degreaser. I have a great citrus degreaser but have no idea what it would do to filter foam. Another source sounds like it means to use a mix of petrol and turps, but I would think the petrol would be destructive on the foam

tuning the pilot jets? Im a bit new to that side of things so excuse the lack of knowledge (I will only need to ask once)

Harvy

Quote from: Tengu on July 05, 2011, 09:30:45 PM
Great - thanks for that, makes much more sense now
Quote from: Harvy on July 05, 2011, 08:48:47 PM
I've only ever used UNI filter oil - still on the original 1 litre bottle.
True - I doubt you would need to change jets if you stick to the relatively more restrictive OEM exhaust as you are not changing the back pressure (but you will probably have to tweek the tuning at the pilot jets)

I will be getting my pods from Randy as soon as I get my head around everything!
I havent heard back from him yet if he sells the UNI filter oil as I couldnt find it on his site (that might be my fault!)
What to clean the pod filters with tho? Stick with turps for all? The motul cleaner looks like a degreaser. I have a great citrus degreaser but have no idea what it would do to filter foam. Another source sounds like it means to use a mix of petrol and turps, but I would think the petrol would be destructive on the foam

tuning the pilot jets? Im a bit new to that side of things so excuse the lack of knowledge (I will only need to ask once)

You can find the filter oil at most auto stores - does not have to be UNI, that's just what I use.
UNI recommend their filter cleaning solution (I don't have a clue what's in it). I have used turps mostly, but hot water and dish-washing liquid will do a good job too (either way, make sure they are dry b4 re-oiling). Can't comment on the Motul - have never used it. I would not use petrol myself - tho I guess it "should" be ok at a pinch.

My mistake.......I should have typed "fuel screw setting" - NOT "pilot jets".
The pods allow more air, so you may find that you have to allow a little more fuel into the mix. From memory (it was a fair time back when I did mine the first time) I went an extra 1/2 turn richer. I've since replaced jets and emulsion tubes and my current setup is 3.5 turns out - but that may not apply in your situation.

Cheers
Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

RichBaker

Quote from: Tengu on July 05, 2011, 09:30:45 PM
Great - thanks for that, makes much more sense now
Quote from: Harvy on July 05, 2011, 08:48:47 PM
I've only ever used UNI filter oil - still on the original 1 litre bottle.
True - I doubt you would need to change jets if you stick to the relatively more restrictive OEM exhaust as you are not changing the back pressure (but you will probably have to tweek the tuning at the pilot jets)

I will be getting my pods from Randy as soon as I get my head around everything!
I havent heard back from him yet if he sells the UNI filter oil as I couldnt find it on his site (that might be my fault!)
What to clean the pod filters with tho? Stick with turps for all? The motul cleaner looks like a degreaser. I have a great citrus degreaser but have no idea what it would do to filter foam. Another source sounds like it means to use a mix of petrol and turps, but I would think the petrol would be destructive on the foam

tuning the pilot jets? Im a bit new to that side of things so excuse the lack of knowledge (I will only need to ask once)

Simple Green works great. Do not use No-Toil oil or cleaner(looks like TSP, some sort of powder), it WILL eat the glue UNI uses!! Other than that, I don't know of any other cleaners to NOT use.  UNI has a lifetime warranty, they just replaced one of my pods because the rubber flange tore somehow. No questions asked, they just sent me a new one after recieving the old one.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

Lotsokids

Can anyone post a picture of the location of this mixture adjustment screw?

Also, a friend was behind me when I nailed the throttle. He said my bike was pouring out a LOT of smoke. Did I go too big on the main jets or could this be oil ring blowby?
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

weymouth399

What color was the smoke?
blk to much fuel.
blue oil blow by.

Bob W
84 FJ 1100
86 FJ1200
89 FJ1200
5  FJ POWERED race cars
76 LB80 Chappy
93 KX500 ice for sale
00 KX500 ice/dirt
04 KDX220 dirt for sale
04 KX500 ice
08 KLX450 ice/road
72 CT90x2 for sale

andyb

Agree with bob.  If it's too much fuel, float heights could be the problem if it's on the initial blast of cracking the gas on.  If it starts black and stays black, you're too rich.

Ask your plugs what they think.

Travis398

Quote from: Lotsokids on July 06, 2011, 10:33:23 AM
Can anyone post a picture of the location of this mixture adjustment screw?

Have a look here, Andy posted and listed pics of everything (and then some)

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.msg37745#msg37745


When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Lotsokids

Quote from: Travis398 on July 06, 2011, 02:52:29 PM
Quote from: Lotsokids on July 06, 2011, 10:33:23 AM
Can anyone post a picture of the location of this mixture adjustment screw?

Have a look here, Andy posted and listed pics of everything (and then some)

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4281.msg37745#msg37745

Right on. Thank you!!!

Andy - I'll check the plugs when I tear into the bike again soon. I'll need to check the floats - I should have when I had the carbs apart... duh.
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

Lotsokids

Quote from: andyb on July 06, 2011, 02:46:54 PM
If it starts black and stays black, you're too rich.

I just asked my friend, and he said it was black smoke. He said he thought I turned it into a diesel. :rofl2:

I need to:
- Adjust the mixture screws. I suppose I need a vacuum guage to get it accurate?
- Check / adjust the floats
- Is 122.5 too much on the mains for my stock bike with only air filter and exhaust mods?
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

andyb

Quote
I need to:
- Adjust the mixture screws. I suppose I need a vacuum guage to get it accurate?
- Check / adjust the floats
- Is 122.5 too much on the mains for my stock bike with only air filter and exhaust mods?

-Nah.  Won't change anything with blowing black at high revs, but it's pretty easyish to do.
-Yup.  If it goes black immediately when you slap the butterflies open and calms down after a few seconds, floats (or leaking past the seats) would be high on the suspect list.
-Wasn't for mine, assuming individual air filters rather than a drop-in type. 

One thing that just occured to me though, what's the gas quality like way over there?  That'll change the tune a bit, I'll wager, though you wouldn't think by so very much.

The other question would be looking for ovaled emulsion tubes, if it's getting fat on the needles.

Lotsokids

Quote from: andyb on July 07, 2011, 07:50:46 AM
-Wasn't for mine, assuming individual air filters rather than a drop-in type. 

One thing that just occured to me though, what's the gas quality like way over there?  That'll change the tune a bit, I'll wager, though you wouldn't think by so very much.

The other question would be looking for ovaled emulsion tubes, if it's getting fat on the needles.


Yes, I have individual air filters

I have 3 choices of fuel here in Hungary which obviously get progressively more expensive. All from Shell gas:
1.) Unleaded 95 - $8.25 per gallon
2.) V-Power 95 (This is what I use - kind of like super unleaded)
3.) V-Power Racing (super expensive and not worth buying for my daily ridden bike)

I was also told to go up a couple notches on my needle. Does this mean remove the clip and re-clip toward the top (end) of the needle or toward the bottom (tapered end)? Would this still be a factor in my rich condition?
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

RichBaker

Move the clip UP to lean, this drops the needle lower in the emulsion tube.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P