News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

pod filters and carb jetting

Started by Rampant_ant, April 25, 2011, 01:35:42 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Lotsokids

Quote from: andyb on July 06, 2011, 02:46:54 PM
Ask your plugs what they think.
I asked them and they told me it was too hot or lean. Could this have been caused PRIOR to installing the new [bigger] pilot and main jets with only modified exhaust?

Doesn't seem to make sense that I would be running rich, pouring out black smoke at WOT, and the plugs covered with white deposits. Sorry, the picture is a little blurry.

U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

Dan Filetti

That does look lean to me. Do they all look like that. How long after your high-speed run did you pull these? 

Dan
Live hardy, or go home. 

Lotsokids

Quote from: Dan Filetti on July 18, 2011, 12:00:13 PM
That does look lean to me. Do they all look like that. How long after your high-speed run did you pull these?  

Dan

Yes, they all look like this one. The high-speed run was a little over a week ago, and it was only about 20 seconds long.

The black smoke at WOT still puzzles me. It doesn't seem that they should go together. :unknown:
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

Lotsokids

Just took it for a ride. It's very sluggish and slow to respond under 2,000 RPM. Feels very clear and powerful above that.

To this point:

1. I adjusted the clip on the top of the needles up one (leaner - at the second groove from the top now).
2. All the mixture screws were originally about 3 turns out - I adjusted all to 2 turns out.
3. I still need to sync the carbs. I'm sure they are off.
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

Lotsokids

Today's update:

I'm second guessing my decision on the engine running rich after seeing those plugs. I talked to my friend today about the smoke he saw behind me, and he said now it may have been blue smoke. That was an important detail. I removed and inspected the #4 plug again since I cleaned it yesterday. It looked light in color again, almost pink. Anyway, here's the latest.

1. I'm now 3 1/2 turns out on the mixture screws. They seem to respond to revs well.
2. Syncronized the carbs - they are all completely even after some adjustments.
3. I adjusted the clips on the needles down one notch (richer) than when I started all this. I'm at the second notch from the bottom now.
4. I just noticed I have no crankcase breather filter. That explains the smoke coming up at my knees at idle when hot.
5. New valve cover gasket installed.

Now, if I rev it and hold it at about 3,500 RPM, it's still popping a little, but revs are clear with no hesitation. At 40,000 miles, I'm not ruling out some crud on my valves or seats.
After all this, the forecast calls for 4 days of rain. Great. :sorry:
U.S. Air Force sport bike instructor (initial cadre), 2007-2009

I'm an American living & working in Hungary

andyb

As you're now fully aware, there's multiple circuits within the carbs that control fueling at different airflow demand levels.  So it's possible to be pig rich at idle, lean through the midrange, and fat as hell on top.  Anything's possible!

Just work through things progressively.  If you want to catch smoke, you may even want to swap bikes and have someone ride yours while you trail them and watch.  Make sure it's smoke on WOT (carbs or rings) and not on trailing throttle (usually valve seals).

Len Redmond

If anyone is interested, I can provide a method to maintain factory specifications when installing pod filters without modifying anything other than the filter. Unless interested in the increase in the power band claimed by those who promote pod filters for this purpose rather than ease of carburetor maintenance, this method will allow an installation without any noticeable effect on starting and running throughout the power band. 
1960 Vespa 150, 1963 Vespa GS & 1956 BMW R50 (All Three Gone);
1981 BMW R65 (Sold); 1980 Suzuki GS750E; 1983 Suzuki GS750ES; 1985 Suzuki GS700ES(Sold); 1978 Suzuki GS550;
1984 Yamaha FJ1100; 1985 Yamaha FJ1100(Sold); 1992 Yamaha FJ1200 ABS

SlowOldGuy

Why not go ahead and post it up?

DavidR.

Pat Conlon

Quote from: Len Redmond on July 30, 2011, 08:56:39 AM
If anyone is interested, I can provide a method to maintain factory specifications when installing pod filters without modifying anything other than the filter.  

Let me guess...it's a flow restrictor installed in the pods, no thanks.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

HansRibbens

Len Redmond:

I'd be interested. I put pods on both a '79 XS750 and an '87 Concours primarily for convenience sake. I've considered the same here for my '86 FJ1200. I'd like to know the simplest way to do it. Thanks.

Hans

Tengu

Yes do tell.. Ive just put pods in...
plan on working on mixture screws tomorrow