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How to: Engine mount bushing removal

Started by Pat Conlon, March 12, 2011, 05:02:58 PM

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Pat Conlon

Unlike earlier editions, our 1991-on FJ1200's have a unique rubber mounted engine system. This system is superior in isolating engine vibration. However, over a period of time, the front engine mount bushings need to be removed, cleaned, greased and reinstalled or the steel bushing will seize to the sleeve collar and vibrations will increase.
If you have a '91+ FJ and have never done this service you may want to consider doing so.
Many owners report a noticeable decrease in engine vibrations as a result of this service.

Here is a great write up, with pictures and words courtesy of Bob Nemec. Thank you Bob, the pictures and drawing are of great help!

Here's a side look at the left side engine mount bolts. The one on the right, closer to the engine, is the one with the collar:

Here's how it looks with the bolts out. You'll need to remove both bolts and the 2 spacers:

Thanks to Tony (Bones) for this picture. This is what you want to accomplish:

I used a 2" long, 1" diameter pipe which just fits inside the 28mm outside diameter of the bushing:

This view is of the bolt head on the inside of the collar, with a mirror showing the bolt head which fits just over it:

Turn the nut and not the bolt head:  I used a set of vise grips to hold the bolt while I turned the nut. One time use only:

Done. Here's what it looks like when it's out. The bolt goes inside the bushing, and the pipe pressed on the collar:
[ width=690 height=517][/img]

Here's a diagram of the engine mount, bushing, and a suggested way to pull it out:
1) Free Owners Manual download:
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire:
Fuel line:

yamaha fj rider

Did this today should have done this a long time ago. Mine came out easily did no need to use the puller, just used a brass drift and dead blow hammer (taped lightly, pound on this can break engine case). It was over due if have not done this you need to. THANK YOU!!!!! Pat and everybody who contributed to this!!!!!!!   :good2:

93 FJ1200
FJ 09
YZ250X I still love 2 strokes
Tenere 700


Hi Pat

First ride out today since I stripped and cleaned my engine mount collars. ant beleive the differance no buzzing through the bars at all  :yahoo:

Interestingly my collars came out without much trouble were certainly not seized, however I cleaned all the marks off them and cleaned and re greased everything . Very Happy

Cheers  Phil
FJ1200 1994
XJ900F 1986


I had three of these to do and I found that a 7/16 socket head bolt worked well as I was able to hold it from turning  with an Allan wrench.  In the two high mileage bikes, I would estimate over 150 pounds torque to break them free.  I also found once broke free I could drive them out with a long bolt quite easily.

92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

Country Joe

I have to give props to the previous owner of my 1993 FJ. Several weeks ago I had pulled the Renntech bar off the right side to check out the clutch and figured while I was that close, I might as well pull and grease the front engine mount bushings. They slid out with no effort and probably could have been stuffed back in, but I cleaned them up, regreased and reinstalled. I still have a little buzz at certain RPMs, I probably should do a carb sync next.
1993 FJ 1200


Great post, thanks guys for the photos and advise. After buying my 94 a few months back and selling my 87 to a friend I thought I had made a big mistake. Thought it was shagged to be honest. I bought it without even taking it for a ride cause it was quite tidy and couldn't really go wrong at the price. After fixing the exhaust system and balancing the carbs that fixed half the vibes and finally today I did the engine mounts.
Man what a difference, it's a new bike....all vibes almost completely gone. And yes they were seized solid.
Anyone with a late model FJ that haven't done it, DO IT, unbelievable improvement..... :good: :good: :biggrin:

Cheers Timbo....
Life's been good to me so far....


I would like to thank the creator of the instructions and images very much. I cleaned and greased the collars, which reduced vibrations extremely and fixed the issue of my bouncing speedo.

But for all my European friends, I like to add some of my findings.

The innerhole of the engine mount is not 11mm as in the image but 12mm, so you can use a M12 rod or bolt. Which is nice because I snapped a (although cheap) m10 rod twice during the process.

Eventually I used a threaded rod M12 (8.8 quality absolutely necessary!), but a M12 nut is too big to pull the inner collar. So with a grinder or Dremel or something, you grind off the edges of the nut so it is round and has a diameter of <19mm.

A socket 24 is a perfect fit on the outer collar, but my regular socket was only 25mm deep, while you need 56mm to get the collar out. After the first 25mm, I used a wrench 17 behind the socket to create some extra space.

My last tip, which is not only for my European friends, when you use a 1 meter (or 3ft) rod, you can put the counter nut on the other side of the engine. Secure the counter nut with a wrench on a stool or piece of timber, so you have both hands available. Then on your side of the engine, with a sliding socket wrench, turn the nut with a piece of pipe. I had to use so much force, my sliding wrench is bent, so I advice not to use your ratchet. 



One term I don't recognize - "sliding wrench"?  Do you have a picture?!


See attached image for my perception of what a sliding wrench is.


Quote from: Seb on June 05, 2022, 01:44:44 PM
See attached image for my perception of what a sliding wrench is.

Think I just found my new favorite tool of the day/week/month!