Fuel gauge issue, needle is on wrong side of the stop pin

[scapello]

My fuel gauge needle is actually resting against the right side of the stop pin at 6 o'clock. Obviously this means that the fuel gauge is currently not functioning. Anyone had this issue?


Steffen

[jvb_ca]

Others have had success using a strong magnet to drag the needle around to the other side of the pin. Maybe give that a try.

Cheers...Jake

[Fred]

Also be sure to check your bike's ground connections, which is normally the cause of the jumping needle.

[pdxfj]

I've had the same issue and what had happened is the damping fluid inside the gauge had dried up.  I refilled it using silicone shock oil used in R/C cars. 

Remove the gauge, and use a small drill bit to make a hole in the top of the gauge.  Then use a syringe to fill the gauge back up.  Next use a little silicone to seal the hole.

Since I had the gauge out of the cluster I also used a small wire brad as a needle stop.  Again I drilled a hole the size of the brad and glued it in place on the back side.  Then used a black sharpie on the brad.  You have to look to see it in my cluster.

So the gauge works as it should now and doesn't bounce around, and the wire brad at the top of the gauge is there in case it wants to jump around again.

There is a "correct" fluid, but it can be a challenge to find.  I figured the silicone oil wouldn't dry out any time soon and is easy to come by in small amounts at hobby stores.

[rktmanfj]

There is a "correct" fluid, but it can be a challenge to find.  I figured the silicone oil wouldn't dry out any time soon and is easy to come by in small amounts at hobby stores.

Dimethicone, IIRC, but it's usually only available at beauty supply stores.

Maybe Henry can help us out with that.     

Randy T
Indy

[rvnmaniac]

 wtf     I don't use no stinkin' beauty supplies

[rlucas]

We know.

[scapello]

This is some funny shit guys. 

Are you saying that the gauge is completely filled with damping fluid? Is there a specific location of this cavity?

Does this also apply to the speedometer? I almost have to drive by rpm since my speedometer seems to bounce and read within about 15mph.

Steffen

[pdxfj]

Think of it this way.

You've seen fluid filled gauges before in cars and such.  The same applies to the FJ's fuel gauge only the fluid is contained in a housing at the back of the gauge.  The needle shaft runs into this housing and when the fluid dries up over 20+ years the needle now has nothing to absorb the vibrations of the bike and bounces like mad all over, until it hits the mid point of no return.

Once you re-fill the housing, things will be back to normal.  You'll see what we are talking about when you remove the gauge from the cluster.  There isn't much fluid in the housing.  Once it's full again you'll notice the gauge will be much more responsive.  Just very carefully drill a small hole in the top of the housing (translucent/white plastic) and use the syringe to fill it up.  Don't poke yourself with the syringe..... 

Also if your other gauges are bouncing around, loosen the gauge cluster.  It's held onto the faring stay by two bolts that have a collar around them and some foam padding.  Just tighten up the bolts until they are snug and don't try to stiffing up the cluster.  It's supposed to flop around, as it helps suck up some of the vibes from the bike.  The speedo is completely mechanical, but is subject to bouncing the needle around if the the cluster is too tight.

Check to see if you have any burned out dash lights.  If you do, replace all of the lamps while you're in there (not just the burned out ones).

This maybe clear as mud, but things will be much more clear once you get the gauge out.

[scapello]

Since we are supposed to get snow again this sounds like a good project. Does the complete fairing have to come off?

[scapello]

pdxfj

Have a look at this. Is this the housing you mentioned?

[pdxfj]

Hey you got it apart.   

You have to remove the metal housing and you'll see what I'm talking about.

While you have everything apart, be sure to replace all of the instrument cluster lamps.  Well at least the ones that light up the gauges.  Plus I would do the headlight relay mod at the same time if it hasn't been done already.  Or go all out and do the HID lamp upgrade. 

[delarbreavous]

I had this problem with my 88 fj  and using rare earth magnets does work, you just need to stack 4 or 5 of them,
wrap them in cloth so you wont scratch the clear plastic.

Still having a jumping needle i will try to fix it next winter with pdxfj's advice.

Alain

[Bigfoot]

Mine seems to have this problem as well, the needle jumps around but only after I get above 70 MPH. Once I slow down, it goes back to norrmal. If it was a fluid issue, wouldn't it do it all the time? Could it be something electrical?

[andyb]

Probably bouncing at that speed because of vibration; it's hitting a resonant frequency.

So you have two issues, vibration and a lack of damping on the guage.  Fix either and the problem should go away.