News:

           Enjoy your FJ


Main Menu

2007 R1 Front and Rear end........

Started by axiom-r, December 11, 2010, 07:10:31 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Pat Conlon

Bolt Depot: https://boltdepot.com/Product-Details?product=15168
Measure the existing 8mm to get the correct shaft length and thread length for the 10mm bolt. If you can't find the correct shaft length and or thread length, just get the full threaded bolt. Those bad boys will never break again...

While you have cradle off, pull out the front engine bushings and grease them up.

Cheers. Pat
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

axiom-r

Thank you, Sir...  the stock bolts are M8 x 30mm x 1.25 thread pitch.

I do think I will look for an M10 that has 10mm of shoulder instead of all thread... the stock bolt has some shoulder and to me that seem right for this placement. 

Tim
1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear

Pat Conlon

Get the overall length close, you can run a bit proud inside the frame, then run your die up the bolt (cut new threads)  so you get the proper shoulder (shaft) length.

Weird that Yamaha used 10mm holes in the frame rails huh?
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

axiom-r

Definitely weird...  But not as weird as you having seen 3 different late model FJ's with broken bolts... in that location. That is actually rather comforting to me because my mind is looking and and thinking about the rear suspension linkage that I just bolted up untested and with no engineering (shade tree wrenching all the way) as well as the dog bone failure....  either of which could have resulted in the kind of forces that would unintentionally stress that connection and sheer a bolt... 

But ok! It appears Yamaha shorted the engineering and an up-sized 10mm bolt sets me free!! 

:sarcastic:
1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear

axiom-r

Back at it today....   Went ahead and removed the front motor mounts and side rails.  Glad to be going through these as the bolts and hardware all need some help and a clean-up.  I'll follow Pat's advice and regrease it all once its clean. Here is the current state of the bike.





This is why I had to disassemble it:  Broken off bolt recessed into the threaded hole on the frame... Please let me hear the options and your expertise on removing a bugger like this.







My intention is to (again) follow Pat's lead and drill these frame holes all out then tap them to accept an M10 bolt.  I got really lucky and a buddy had these for the frame of an FZ-08 I think. They are exactly as needed but 5mm long....  Hoping I can drill to the proper depth and use as is – otherwise I'll mount them in my vice and grind 5mm off then clean up the threads.






I also got the R1 forks completely rebuilt. New seals & fresh oil.






1992 FJ1200 w 2007 R1 Front & Rear

fj1289

Tim,

To remove the broken bolt before drilling and tapping the hole oversized, I would use left twist drill bits.  If you have to purchase a screw extractor set to get the left twist drill bits - open the pack, carefully take out the screw extractors, and throw the brittle easily broken impossible to drill things AWAY!  Spray well with P Blaster.  Then start with the smallest drill bit and drill into the bolt a couple thicknesses of the drill bit.  Go up to the next drill bit and repeat.  Keep repeating - going deeper with each larger drill bit until the heat, oil and vibrations loosen it up or the drill bit "snags" the ever thinner edge and backs the broken bolt out.  If all else fails, it will fall into the frame to live forever after you have drilled and tapped to M10 size. 

Side story - I did this the WRONG WAY when I got my 89 24 years ago.  I decided that heli-coils were a great idea and the best way to do this - WRONG!  I still like heli-coils for blind holes in aluminum, but NOT for open holes in steel.  So much better to simply drill and tap the steel.  These things have been a headache ever since installing them - sometimes pulling a thread up, sometimes pushing in further ... Finally (just yesterday!) I have all of them drilled out and simply tapped even larger.  Worse mechanical decision I've ever made - and that list is longer than I'd like to admit!

Good luck!  At least your are doing it the right way the first time!

Chris

FJmonkey

I support the LH drill approach. Use a center punch to get a good indent for the drill tip to follow. I have removed more broken bolts this way. Its kind of satisfying then the broken bolt spins out on the drill bit. 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

giantkiller

Yah the broken bolts are actually quite common. I've started replacing them with the   bigger bolts. Before they break. It's been awhile. Thanks for the reminder. I have 4 fjs that need to have the bolts replaced.
86 fj1350r
86 fj1380t turbo drag toy (soon)
87 fj1200 865 miles crashed for parts
89 fj1200 touring 2up
87 fzr1000 crashed
87 fzr750r Human Race teams world endurance champion
93 fzr600 Vance n hines ltd for sale
Custom chopper I built
Mini chopper I built for my daughter just like the big 1