2007 R1 Front and Rear end........

[FJmonkey]

FYI, black anodize like all the other colors (just a dye) will fade with time and temperature. Black tends to fade to a blotchy purple. However, Hard anodize (gray to black) will not fade and greatly increases the surface hardness making it difficult to scratch. Good choice Tim.

[axiom-r]

Hello guys!  Its been quite some time since I've popped in.  My FJ has been sitting for the most part as I deal with life and work....  This summer has afforded me some time so I have decided to refresh the FJ and do some poking around to make sure my R1 mods are doing well.....  Here's the list of To Do's:

1.  New Tires
2.  Refresh brake discs/pads/bolts
3.  Rebuilt Front Brake Master Cylinder
4.  Rebuild forks - new seals and oil
5.  Check Steering Stem and Bearings for regular wear and adjustment
6.  Basic Service: Plugs, Air Filter, Oil, Oil Filter
7.  New RPM Oil Cooler and Lines
8.  Clean Headers and Exhaust
9.  Service Clutch; New Slave Cylinder from Blue Streak Racing, Barnet Coil Spring Conversion,
10. Check Swingarm Bearings and Bushings
11. Remove and clean Rear Shock – check all spacers and bushings
12. Inspect Dog Bone and bushings for wear.

I am sure other stuff will pop up – it always does! For example – I finally mounted the Vortex Gas Cap I won in a drawing at the West Coast FJ Rally long, long ago- HA!

Anywho.... I'll post up the progress and some more pics as I ready the FJR1 for some summer miles.

Cheers! 

Tim

[Pat Conlon]

Great to hear from you Tim! Your R-1 modded FJ is unique, for sure!

Cheers laddie...

Pat

[axiom-r]

Thanks Pat!

Hope you have been well....  The R1 mods are looking really solid so far - the steering yoke hasn't moved at all. I put a floor jack under the motor and unweighted the front stand to check it for undesired movement. No play at all and moves freely - stoked!  Hoping the rear end is doing as well, will know later today.

Cheers!

[Pat Conlon]

We are long over due for a ride... perhaps a BBQ in Oakdale is in order?

I thought of you the other day when I was adjusting my Soupy dogbones...

Shudder...

[axiom-r]

Oh boy...  those aren't dog bones!  They are "lowering links"..... 

Would love to get a BBQ in this year.  I chatted with Robert yesterday.  Had the Oil Cooler Kit in my check out basket... left it overnight and the next morning the oil cooler kits were sold out!!  Someone got the last one right outta my cart! 

[Flynt]

We are long over due for a ride... perhaps a BBQ in Oakdale is in order?

I'd second the idea of an RPM Rally...  WCR has died and no more Renegades, so a destination/pilgrimage to RPM might be what the west coast needs...?

Frank

[Pat Conlon]

Yea, I miss you guys...

[red]

I don't think the forks/wheel are setup for a speedo drive.I think they run a sensor off the tranny.

Axiom-m,

You can get digital GPS speedometers from Amazon for about US$35 and up (...way up).  Some will have an odometer in there, and some will not. Most will have trip-meters for each ride, but are not able to track a tank of gas; they reset with each turn-on. You can get the cheap rectangular digitals, or even round gauges that should (may) replace the OEM speedo gauge.  Most units will NOT need an external GPS antenna, but check to be sure.

[axiom-r]

Hey Red! I am way down the road on using a GPS Speedo...  My install notes are on page 8 in the thread here. I found a Speedhut unit that works nicely.  If I could do it again (I might) the unit would be a much closer match to stock with the right backlight color and everything! 

 

[Mike Ramos]

We are long over due for a ride... perhaps a BBQ in Oakdale is in order?

I'd second the idea of an RPM Rally...  WCR has died and no more Renegades, so a destination/pilgrimage to RPM might be what the west coast needs...?

Frank

Sounds doable - it's been quite a long while...  Conlon & Frank -two of the best!

        Midget

[axiom-r]

I continued to disassemble yesterday to take a good look at how the R1 mods were wearing and I found a few things I thought I would share...

First and most importantly, some of you will recall that I had a Soupy's Lowering Link in use as an adjustable Dog Bone and it failed by shearing and breaking while I was riding.... The bike dropped hard onto itself when the dog bone broke slamming down and dragging the tire until I came to a stop from about 60-70 mph...  Look back through this thread for the details.

As I disassembled the bike today a bolt fell out onto the drip pan with a metallic thud...  I found it to be a sheared frame bolt!  I am not sure that it broke when the dog bone incident occurred but it seems to me it did...  That moment was the only one during my ownership of the bike when it could have happened.



So, I've ordered 4 of these to replace them all and I am now contemplating how to remove the lower left frame rail section without dropping the motor entirely. Would appreciate any advice / experience in this area. You can see in the shot below that the lower frame bolt hole is empty.  I've got to figure out how to remove the sheared bolt from the frame and that means moving the frame rail out of the way to access it.



Got the counter shaft sprocket off for the first time since mounting it for the R1 mods.  There was lots of healthy skepticism from the group here about getting the R1 rear wheel on the FJ – specifically, chain alignment was an unknown.  I had located a 17-tooth sprocket that has a ¼" offset and that was very close to being in full alignment. – BUT – not quite...  So, my machinist buddy made me a spacer.  We had taken a guess at the right thickness and we got very close. The rear wheel rolled freely with very little chain noise and no obvious misalignment – holding a straight edge along the chain was visually good to go.

Upon inspection today, thousands of miles later, we can see things are not perfect. The spacer was not hard enough to stay perfectly conformed and a wear groove is now visible where the engine collar makes contact.  So, the spacer has gotten thinner with use. 





Looking at both side of the sprocket I can now see the outside of the teeth are clean with no rub or wear marks. The inside of the teeth do show light wear and rub marks.

Outside:

Inside:


My conclusion is that I need a slightly thicker spacer made of a harder material. OR – I will add the desired spacer thickness to the needed Offset of the sprocket and try to find one that matches that measurement.  I am guessing the offset needed will require a custom sprocket that would be costly – so, I am likely to stick with making a new spacer...

Also used some special Yamaha tools to completely open and clean the R1 forks... 

[FJmonkey]

This is good stuff Tim. Thanks.

[Pat Conlon]

Hi Tim, I've had those bolts break on the lower cradle frame rails on (3) different 92/93 FJ's. Here's my fix. Look at the holes in the frame rails...they are sized for a 10mm bolt, yet Yamaha only used a smaller 8mm bolt, and a soft one at that. I drilled the 8mm threads out and tapped in 10mm and now I use SAE10.9 10mm bolts. Problem solved. I was worried about more vibration with the bigger bolts, but that is not the case.
Yes, you can get the lower rails off leaving the engine in with the 2 rear mounts. I used a bottle jack and blocks under the front of the engine to take the load off the front engine mount and thus the frame rails mounting bolts.

Never figured out why Yamaha used a soft 8mm bolt thru a 10mm frame hole... for production tolerances?

Cheers.  Pat

[axiom-r]

Thanks, Mark! I'm planning to continue to update progress as well as issues on these mods...

Pat, I suspected you'd have some knowledge about this! Would love to know where you sourced the 10 mm bolts. I looked around at my hardware store and couldn't find anything metric that was grade 8 or higher.

Do you recommend replacing the rubber mounts or anything related to the front mounts when pulling those?

I'm traveling this week so I'll go back at it this weekend.  If I can buy the bolts in advance I'll do that today!

Cheers!!

Tim