News:

         
Welcome to FJowners.com


It is the members who make this best place for FJ related content on the internet.

Main Menu

Tools.

Started by MrFox, November 23, 2010, 08:43:39 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

MrFox

Hello:

Before I start tearing into my FJ too much, what is a good starting point for the tools to have on hand?  (without regard to mechanical skill)

I have the normal sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, etc, but what about the ones that are needed but not that run of the mill (like the star torx thingys)

I'm planning on replacing the rotors on my '85 1100, so that's a place to start with whats needed.

Thanks!



MrFox

RichBaker

Special tool for the fork caps and damper rod ......  take an 18mm bolt (it has a 27mm head, fits the caps/damper rod) and drive a 5/8(IIRC) socket over the shank.

Also need a tool for the valve shim removal/replacement.  Get it from RPM Randy.

Can't think of anything else, someone else will chime in with wahtever I forgot....
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

andyb

A torch, #30 torx driver, chain tools, clutch basket holder, measuring devices, tire irons, bead breaker, synch gauge, jack, front/rear stands.

Really don't need a ton of specialized things to do nearly any job to it.

Harvy

Quote from: MrFox on November 23, 2010, 08:43:39 PM
Hello:

Before I start tearing into my FJ too much, what is a good starting point for the tools to have on hand?  (without regard to mechanical skill)

I have the normal sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, etc, but what about the ones that are needed but not that run of the mill (like the star torx thingys)

I'm planning on replacing the rotors on my '85 1100, so that's a place to start with whats needed.

Thanks!



MrFox

Nope, you won't need any torx bits.
For the rotors, a set of metric alan keys.
I've found that a shock driver in 1/2 inch drive with an appropriate (5mm I think - can't remember) alan key head usually does the trick.
Most bolts are either 10, 12 , 14 or 17mm heads. And an 8mm ring for the bleeders on the callipers if necessary.

You may also find a heating (propane) torch is required to loosen the thread locking gunk on the rotor bolts - but that what I use the shock driver for.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

andyb

You need a #30 torx for something inside the motor.

You'll need a big socket (30? 36? 32mm?) for the countershaft.


Oh yes, impact driver = ftw.


Harvy

I didn't know about the Torx driver - haven't been into the motor so haven't had the need....sorry about that.

yes......32mm for the c/s nut.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

SlowOldGuy


pdxfj

Best tool I have ever purchased for working on the FJ or any other bike.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-motorcycle-lift-91764.html

Look around for a 20% off coupon to bring the price down even more.  :)


Dan Filetti

If you can't find that 20% off coupon on-line I see them with some frequency in the back of Motorcyclist magazine.

Actually I once talked the cashier into giving me the 20% despite the fact that I did not have the coupon on me.  Another time they took my word on a price I said I had seen it on-line and they changed it on the spot.  I had actually seen it but they did not know that. They seem fairly lax about such things, at least at my local store.

Dan
Live hardy, or go home. 

Harvy

Quote from: SlowOldGuy on November 23, 2010, 10:39:43 PM
36mm

Dave, you might be the OldSlowGuy, but you still have better memory than me!

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

oldktmdude

You'll need a 6mm allen key or 6mm in-hex socket to do your brake rotors.  Pete.   :good2:
1985 FJ1100 x2 (1 sold)
2009 TDM 900
1980 Kawasaki Z1R Mk11 (sold and still regretting it)
1979 Kawasaki Z650 (sold)
1985 Suzuki GSXR 400 x2 (next project)
2001 KTM 520 exc (sold)
2004 GasGas Ec300
1981 Honda CB 900 F (sold)
1989 Kawasaki GPX 600 Adventure

rktmanfj

Quote from: Dan Filetti on November 23, 2010, 11:51:21 PM
If you can't find that 20% off coupon on-line I see them with some frequency in the back of Motorcyclist magazine.

Actually I once talked the cashier into giving me the 20% despite the fact that I did not have the coupon on me.  Another time they took my word on a price I said I had seen it on-line and they changed it on the spot.  I had actually seen it but they did not know that. They seem fairly lax about such things, at least at my local store.

Dan

Several magazines have their ad now.  I got a $5 subscription to Popular Mechanics last year from Amazon just to make sure I had a supply of the coupons.  Now they come in the newspaper every Sunday.

I get to go to HF a lot, now that there are two stores within 20 minutes of here.      :good:

Randy T
Indy

TRoy

..small snap ring pliers

- so you can remove & lube the shifter pivot

- so you can remove the big shaft that goes thru the lower shock mount/swingarm/relay arm (84-87)
Peace & Love
86FJ 100K+
07Burg650
15Downtown300

andyb

^ good catch.  Also need snap ring pliers to pull the gear from the oil pump.

Need ring expanders to safely remove/install piston rings.  Need ring compressor to mount pistons in cylinder.

The 30 torx is for removing the bearing retainer behind the clutch assembly.

If you start really getting into it, a die grinder, a CNC, a flowbench, a dyno...  Depends I suppose on how much work you're doing! :)  For the most part, a good general toolkit will get you 95% of the way there on most basic jobs.  The commonly needed specialized tools are:

-A carb synch tool for routine carb balancing (get the Morgan
-A chain breaker/riveting tool
-A valve holder for setting lash
-An impact driver for breaking loose things that are stupidly tight
-A propane torch, for the same
-A clutch holder, if you're pulling the basket out (Motion Pro makes a good one, though you may have to grind it a bit to fit perfectly)
-A 36mm socket for the countershaft nut (it's helpful to grind it so that it's totally flat, works better then)
-A good torque wrench, or two (3/8 + 1/4 is handy, mostly things are 40ft/lbs or lower, highest I can think of is the rear axle nut)
-A good multimeter for electrical crap.


A parts cleaner is absolutely priceless, too.

jvb_ca

Mighty Vac or a big honkin syringe for bleeding brake lines and clutch lines......  :yes:

Cheers...Jake
Cheers...Jake
86FJ1200
Ontario