My 17" FZR rear wheel mod.

[1tinindian]

Like alot of you guys, it didn't take me long to get interested in this mod.
The wheel I bought was listed as a 1990 FZR1000 rear wheel.

But I wonder if it is exactly what it's claimed to be, because the machined edge appears different when compared to others that have this mod.
I didn't notice this until I stripped the black paint off and cleaned it up a little.
My next step is to pull my stock wheel off the bike and take some measurements.

I hope I will be able to use this wheel and tire, as they look to be in good shape.

If any of you guys see something that stands out to you that might suggest I have something different than an EXUP FZR1000 rear wheel, please let me know.
If it means anything, my spare FJ rotor fits this wheel.

I have another brake caliper mount to modifiy, as well as the cushdrive that came with this wheel, so I can have all the mods completed while still keeping my bike operational.

For now, here are the pictures I have up to this point.

Leon

[racerman_27410]

looks fine to me   


Kookaloo!

[Firehawk068]

It looks like mine (before I had mine powder coated that is.)

[1tinindian]

OK, thanks guys!

I'd like some further information, and I plan on taking it slow and one piece at a time to ensure I Don't miss anything.

I'd like to start with the brake caliper mount.

Alan, you mentioned that 10-11 mm needs to be removed on the swing arm side of the mount.
Looking at the picture below, the 3cm mark is on the swing arm side of the mount, and that would make the 2cm mark roughly the amount of material that would need to be removed, correct?
That cuts pretty deep into the casting and I just wanted it verified that it is indeed the way it needs to be modified.
Can you provide a picture of your modified mount to illustrate to me how it looks after the machine work was done?

Leon

[Firehawk068]

Leon,
In order to know exactly how much material to remove from the caliper bracket, you really need to take an accurate measurement of the inside of your swingarm(this will involve removing your current wheel/spacers/caliper bracket/etc)
Write this measurement down.
Then, take your axle, and stack all the parts on it, starting with the left outer spacer, the cushdrive, the spacer collar, the FZR wheel, the right outer spacer, then the caliper bracket.
Push it all down on the axle nice and tight, then make a mark on the axle where the caliper bracket ends.
Take everything off the axle, and measure to the mark you just made.
Subtract the 2 measurements......Write this down...This is how much material will have to be removed from various parts to get the new wheel into your swingarm.....
Now note that the procedure requires 7mm on the cushdrive side.....So subtract this from your (material to be removed) measurement......this is now how much needs to be removed from the caliper bracket.

For example: I measured the  inside of the swingarm at 252mm, and the stack of all my parts at 269mm......A difference of 17mm.
Keeping in mind that 7mm comes off of the cushdrive side, leaves 10mm to be machined off of the caliper bracket.

This is where you really need to take accurate measurements, because your swingarm may be slightly different than someone else's, due to manufacturing differences, steel swingarm/VS aluminum swingarm, and brand of bearings being used, etc.......
If you are using new bearings, be sure to install them before taking your measurements.
Also, be sure to use "sealed" bearings.
The FJ wheel has an O-ring between it, and the cushdrive to keep water, and dirt out of the bearings. The FZR wheel does not have this O-ring, so you MUST use sealed bearings

Here is what my caliper bracket, cushdrive, and collar looked like after machining.




During my 1st attempt to install everything in the swingarm, I realized that I would have to pry apart the swingarm legs slightly to get everything to go in.........This would have put outward stress on the swingarm, and it's 20 year old welds and such....So I went back to the machine shop to have an additional 1mm removed from the caliper bracket. So it had a total of 11mm taken off.
Everything slips right in perfectly now.

I know you had mentioned you planned to work out all the machine-work, then swap everything over all at once, but you will most likely have to take a day, and remove your old stuff, take all your measurements, put all your old stuff back on the bike so you can ride while getting your parts machined.
You could take a chance, and use my measurements, but there's a good probability that it wouldn't fit together exactly right.

This will at least give you an idea where to start.

[1tinindian]

Alan. once again you come through with flying colors!

Do you recommend a certain set of wheel bearings, by name, and where to get them?
I see a couple sellers on ebay have them, just wondering.

More pictures to follow....

[pdxfj]

Do you recommend a certain set of wheel bearings, by name, and where to get them?
I see a couple sellers on ebay have them, just wondering.

I use CBR Bearing.  Good folks.  Call them up and tell them what you have and they send you a kit with all the bearings and seals.

www.cbrbearing.com

[Firehawk068]

I used "ALL Balls" bearing and seal kits for the front, and rear.
Rear kit is about $31
https://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/

or.....if you "accidentally" type in allballs.com, you'll end up somewhere else you may or may not want to be.

[1tinindian]

I just had to get an idea as to how well the larger wheel was actually going to look on my bike, I did a quick test fit.

Then I took measurements and as it was, it measured 252mm wide within the swing arm.
Exactly the same as Alans, so I feel I'm started off in the right direction.

My next step is to get the correct FJ wheel bearings put into the FZR wheel and then get the exact measurements needed to have the cushdrive and brake mount machined.

My plan is to document this project to the very end, all in the same thread to make it easy to follow along for others interested in this particular mod.

My appreciation goes out to Alan for his guidance through this project!

Leon

[Mark Olson]

don't forget to make some new dogbones for the ride height . you will find the rear sits lower with the new wheel. most just set the height for the rear wheel just barely off the ground when the bike is on the center stand. you can make some your self out of strap steel or buy the adj bones off of ebay.

[1tinindian]

I now have the old bearings out and the hub sandblasted.
New bearings are ordered and on their way.





Now, another question for Alan, or anyone else that may know, does the inner axle spacer need anything removed from it, or does it stay its OE 140 mm?


Another question about the 7mm mentioned eariler that needs removed from the left side.
Is it a total 7mm that gets milled off?
The fjmod site is not clear on this, as they say 5mm off the lugs, and 2.5mm off the overall diameter.

Which is it?

Leon

[RichBaker]

The bearing spacer does NOT get cut, it IS inside the wheel, between the bearings....  unless, of course, you're getting the wheel sectioned.

[Firehawk068]

Yes......What Rich said.
Leave that spacer as is.....You are not changing any dimensions inside the wheel.

As for machining of the cushdrive hub.......I used the 5mm off of the lugs. This was enough as they dont go far enough into the wheel to actually touch the wheel.....
However the 2.5mm off of the outside diameter wasn't enough....I am not sure if the powder coating inside my wheel here was extra thick, or ?
It wouldn't fit inside the wheel, so I took it back to the machine shop, and had him reduce the diameter all the way to the little step.....This worked perfectly.
The 7mm comes off of the big end of the collar spacer that goes in between the cushdrive bearing, and the left side wheel bearing......This is what allows the cushdrive hub to sit 7mm deeper inside the wheel.

You might want to hold off on putting your new wheel bearings in until you've removed the material inside the cushdrive side(the vanes) of the wheel, so you can blow the shavings/dust out of the wheel.......or cover with duct tape as I did.

There is also some extra machining inside the cushdrive hub(if you look at the picture of mine) that needs to be done, so that it doesn't contact the wheel when installed.

[1tinindian]

The 7mm comes off of the big end of the collar spacer that goes in between the cushdrive bearing, and the left side wheel bearing......This is what allows the cushdrive hub to sit 7mm deeper inside the wheel.

OK, I think I'm getting a more clear picture of things now.

Is this collar spacer a seperate piece, or is it a part of the cushdrive bearing?

The reason I ask, is because when I took the old bearing out, that spacer came out with the bearing and seemed attached.
Does it need to be cut off, or is that the difference between the FJ and the FZR collar space?

Here is the parts breakdown for my FJ.
Which one is the collar spacer?
Is it #14?
And is it press into the bearing?


Leon

[Firehawk068]

The collar is a separate piece......It slides into the cushdrive bearing.
Yours might be tight in there. You just need to press it out, or knock it out with a drift or similar...
The large end of it butts up against the left wheel bearing. This is the end that needs 7mm machined off it. (it should be machined perfectly flat on the end, as when you torque everything together, it fits tight against the wheel bearing)