A more power

[RichBaker]

Red X, appears to be a bad link....

[WestOzFJ]

you could come up with window switches somehow to turn things off after a certain temp, but the big blue squirt gun can do a lot of damage in a very, very short time if there's a problem with fuel delivery.

Here are some awesome gauges I've used that have switch-able outputs that could easily trigger either a relay or maybe a simple 2N3055 transistor based switching circuit (if you're electronically inclined) that could switch your solenoids.... (no I'm not affiliated with the product)

http://www.cruzpro.com/py30.html

I've used this exhaust pyro and it was flawlessly reliable. I haven't bought one for a few years now and looking through the website the design hasn't changed much so it'd be fair to guess the product is quite well developed into a neat, robust little package.

The last time I used this gauge was for a Toyota 1HDT turbo diesel build up for my own 100 series Toyota Landcruiser running 3 times the factory boost at 27psi. I configured the gauge and simple controlling ancillary to manipulate MAP signals to the wastegate and to the (still) mechanical fuel pump if the EGT went over 650 degrees C. as controlling fuel rates on a diesel is critical to the engine's survival (but it's the opposite for a diesel - more fuel = higher temp). It ran un-touched for over 200,000 kilometres/2 years of heavy assed towing in the stinkin' hot north west iron ore country until I sold it, when everyone else said it would blow up the first week I ran it.... Yet it didn't blow up, would pull a 3 tonne trailer all day and night with ease and was dynoed at over 268bhp - not bad for a 4.2 litre mechanical fuel pump diesel only turning 4250 rpm....

And having run methanol fueled two stroke race engines in speedway with my own backyard version of a Hilborne constant flow injection system - well erm, let's just say if I'd bought shares in Wiseco twenty years ago I'd have saved myself a lot of money on "learning" pistons... The early ones I tuned by EGT, then later switched to probes closer to CCT. (methanol, ahhh yes, so beautiful and perfect yet so destructive and vindictive).

SO I understand your concern about how much damage ANY colour bottle can do....

Which temp you decide to utilise is a decision only you can make - it's your engine, your money and your learning curve to be had.... Everyone's gotta go the way they want to explore I don't take much notice of what other racers tell me, I figure if they're winning they're not gonna tell me how to beat them.... Like everywhere else, don't know who's full of bs or who knows something unless you prove it to yourself by experimentation.

Having an EGT, under plug or any other gauge/controller is all well and good - learning to read what it's telling you is quite another learning experience to behold...

So try EGT if you want, just think carefully about what it's really saying - cooler is not necessarily "better". Cooler indicated EGT's can occur if tuning changes advance the timing of the explosion so then maybe the heat is being more absorbed by the combustion chamber and piston. That cost me a few pistons to learn and that's why I changed away from EGT for race engine development - even though I know it's good value as a turbo diesel tuning tool...

"K" type thermo couplers are quite rugged and are very accurate from 0 to 1100 deg C. The temperature vs resistance scale for "K" type is a uniform international standard. With the Cruz Pro gauges you calibrate at 0 and 100 degrees (32 and 212 F) with the wiring harness you're going to use. Once I've set them up, and then maybe re-check a year or so later, they've still been accurate.

In my day job I sometimes work on engines that have that much vibration they rub injector wiring harnesses through fuel rail (and squirt fuel at the turbo and set the whole furkin truck on fire - but that's a story for another day) but "K" probes live fine with the vibes from one 15000 hour engine rebuild to the next.

The one thing you have to watch with them is to pay particular attention to the quality of the wiring, connectors and the way you "prepare" the wire. By that I mean: use as few connections as possible - have one run of wire from the gauge all the way to the connector at the probe and most importantly, DO NOT SOLDER any connections - crimp them - the minor change in electrical impedance caused by soldering will mess up the true reading more at one end of the scale than the other. I learned that one the hard way also.

Caterpillar make THE BEST, neatest, best thought out and easy to use electrical connectors on the planet. They're a variation of and made under license to Deutch (who contrary to the sound of his name was American). The o ring sealed connector which is water proof to pressure cleaner blasts, houses gold plated pins (corrosion resistant + good electrical conductor) each rated at 10amps.

The beauty of the connector is in the simple crimping operation required that actually works so well you can hang a 10 pound weight of the wire when done - every time. Get the Deutch crimper from an auto electrical supplier is simpler than the unnecessarily complicated and expensive CAT one but either will do. So un-reliability issues related to corrosion or bad connections is virtually eliminated. While not quite "mil spec", I've seen these babies take a pounding in mining earthmoving equipment where most other OEM brands I won't name fail dismally in comparison.

Their main limitation is the 10amp maximum current loading so they're not suitable for everything. My advice - don't use the grey Deutch connectors, use the black Caterpillar ones - the difference is in how they retain the seal where the wire goes into the connector body - the CAT way is far superior because this seal is retained by an extra lead in lip moulded into the connector body while the Deutch version can allow the seal to fall out allowing water/contaminants to enter.

Phew, I need a bourbon now, tis friday night after all....

[racerman_27410]

the way i understand the FJ cylinder head ( as informed by more than one respected legends engine builder.)

we are dealing with a very inefficient combustion chamber.    in order to extract maximum power the engine likes the mix to be as lean as possible.....
.
the beauty of the FJ engine is it's built like a tank and very capable of handling the heat that is generated as long as air is moving over it

i think a oil temp gauge can be very informative in how the engine is tuned generally but for 1/4 mile action there wouldnt be enough time to get a read on what's happening thru the oil (it's still nice to know when the engine is fully warmed up though)  the sensors for the R/C nitro cars are very sensitive and accurate.... the type with a loop would work great around a spark plug and read out almost instantly..... like was said before there are also units that will datalog... which could be some very powerful information when playing with the juice.

just remember the FJ rule.... Lean IS Mean !  and have fun  



KOokaloo!

[Ride]

I come from the dirt bike world. Trailtech makes computers for dirt bike that have a spark plug sensor and two programmable indicator lights. About $100 for the whole thing and keeps tons of other info. Small waterproof unit.

http://trailtech.net/computers.html

Or if you just want temp...

http://trailtech.net/tto_temperature.html

just a thought.

K

[Flying Scotsman]

I need more power,
I only have a little 1100 cc motor what are my options to go bigger ?.
Can I install  1200 cylinders and pistons on my 1100 cases/crank ?.If so do I need the whole top end,cams valves,head etc ?.I see 1250 cc kits and 1314 cc kits but money is tight so that will be some time coming.I know the 1100 mounts are diferent to the 1200 any way to mount the 1200 motor in the 1100 by changing the lower part of the frame ?.
I  NEED MORE POWER.

[andyb]

The first four options are available from Wiseco.  

77mm (1188cc, 10.25:1 or 12:1) requires a rebore
78mm (1219cc, 10.25:1) requires new sleeves and may require some clearancing on the upper crankcase.
79mm (1250cc, 10.25:1) requires resleeving and the 1200 block, some clearancing
81mm (1314cc, 10.25:1) requires resleeving and the 1200 block, some clearancing
82mm (1349cc) can be done in the 1200 block, sleeves required
90mm (1621cc) requires an aftermarket block that I understand are a bit rare...

I've heard of a 1387, and a 1380 and a 1447 out there as well, but you'd have to ask how they did it.

Heads interchange as far as I know.

Swapping to a 1200 block+piston set would work pretty easily, but you'd want to make sure it came from a healthy machine.

[Flying Scotsman]

The first four options are available from Wiseco.  

77mm (1188cc, 10.25:1 or 12:1) requires a rebore
78mm (1219cc, 10.25:1) requires new sleeves and may require some clearancing on the upper crankcase.
79mm (1250cc, 10.25:1) requires resleeving and the 1200 block, some clearancing
81mm (1314cc, 10.25:1) requires resleeving and the 1200 block, some clearancing
82mm (1349cc) can be done in the 1200 block, sleeves required
90mm (1621cc) requires an aftermarket block that I understand are a bit rare...

I've heard of a 1387, and a 1380 and a 1447 out there as well, but you'd have to ask how they did it.

Heads interchange as far as I know.

Swapping to a 1200 block+piston set would work pretty easily, but you'd want to make sure it came from a healthy machine.

So the easiest economical way to go bigger is a 1200 cylinder and piston set up on the 1100 cases with the 1100 head.

[Flying Scotsman]

Do the 1100 sleeves and the 1200 sleeves have the same o.d. ?
Can you bore 1100 and 1200 sleeves to the same Diamiter ?

[Dan Filetti]

Typically, "I need more power" and "money is tight" don't play nice with one another. 

There is an old saying: "Speed costs money; how fast do you want to spend?"  Sure seems true from where I sit.

Dan 

[Flying Scotsman]

Money only maters when you dont have any lol.........

[Brook]

...... Hi,.. I am in the process in rebuilding my motor, [right now it is at 1219cc, no sleeves] .... I have had alot of talks with several people related to FJ's [ in the past month]. From the Legend car's to Hank Scott and Randy [ in the way of .PM.]. Hank makes it sound OK, to install sleeves in the motor. But, I have also, had a conversation with a Yamaha dealer mechanic, in my area.....he has a 86 FJ 200hp turbo drag bike..... He is telling me, with passion, DO NOT install kits with sleeves. I would have nothing but problems, mostly oil leaks.
..... For the street, all I need is a set of good cams, headwork and a set of good carbs.
....... also, he is saying,.... the lower cc motors can run with the bigger cc motors, if done right. and be more reliable, and cheaper,............. No replacement for displacement ?? 
...... So, If I can,.....get the thoughts on the ones, that have the kits with the sleeves in their motors.
                                thanks, Jeff

[Ride]

In the dirt bike world we send the cylinders to be nikasil plated (hard plating / no liner). That might be an option for the big bore stuff??? Just a random thought.

[SlowOldGuy]

There is minimal difference in performance between the stock 1100 and 1200 motors. 

If you want to go really fast, then save yourself lots of money and time and just go buy a used Hayabusa.  You'll just wind up killing the character of the FJ trying to radically hop it up.

On the other hand, if you want to be able to RIDE FASTER, then spend money on suspension upgrades.

DavidR.

[Marsh White]

On the other hand, if you want to be able to RIDE FASTER, then spend money on suspension upgrades.
DavidR.

Yes - and a riding school like the California Superbike School: http://www.superbikeschool.com/

[WestOzFJ]

Having owned both FJ 11 and 12, I dispute the notion that there is very little performance difference between the 2.

The fact is to ride on the street - the engine torque characteristics are like cheese and chalk, even more so than you would think with only less than 100cc  and 5 hp difference.

12's have much more useable roll-on grunt down low which makes for less gear changing especially round town in traffic and overtaking.

Before you believe such rubbish, PROVE the above for yourself by taking even a standard 12 for a ride to compare the difference will surprise you.

The main top end horsepower limiting factor is cylinder head design but more cc increase with same head will get you more port velocity and therefore more low down grunt and as hp = torque related to time you will see some power increase with a larger capacity yet no other changes.

Although cost prohibitive for some, the XJR 1250 cylinder block is thicker in key areas (as are the 1250 cases) that reduces the likelihood of oil seapage issues that sometimes occur with boring and sleeving the 11/12 block to larger capacity and I bought some well priced second hand 1250 cylinder blocks out of the US on flea-bay lately for less than $150 each.

As a bonus, plated cylinders transfer heat much more efficiently than iron linered blocks which reduces bore distortion for reasons also related to different expansion rates of dissimilar metals. Plated cylinders last longer, run cooler (on the inside) and make more power due to better ring sealing and less friction.

I've recently spoken to: http://www.electrosil.com.au/ about re-boring the 1250 blocks to 81.0 mm for my 1314 (salt lake race engines). In discussion we talked about the possibility of making liners of aluminium (I'm not running iron for reasons above). They said they've done such modifications to busa and R1 engines using 6061T6 Ally for the liners - which is a fairly common material and boring to .008" over required finished size allows for the plating process to be applied then they finish/hone to size. It can be quite costly to have done though....at least here in Oz....

I once ran a Cosworth headed Chevvy Vega engine in midget racing. I regretted changing the engine from an alloy bore to iron liners - I could never get back to same cylinder leak-down numbers with the iron liners by a differnce of about 2 to 3 % so this time will definitely be going plated even if I have to eat baked beans for a while longer yet to afford the additional cost. I think when increasing the bore size and you start to get thinner in the vicinity between cylinders is inviting distortion with iron so I totally agree with the comment of the Yamaha mechanic - I wouldn't run a high mileage street engine on big iron liners.