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Oil Leak - O Ring?

Started by Bogan, October 10, 2010, 07:21:52 PM

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Bogan

Can you reuse the o-ring on the oil filter housing?  I did an oil and filter change yesterday and have a leak now :(.  I also tried to use my torque wrench on the sump plug and it seemed to be a really high setting?

Should I just get the new o-ring and see how I go?

Cheers in advance,


Tony.

Dan Filetti

Don't go too tight on that sump plug.  You will tear it right out of there, causing you to a) replace the pan, or b) use heli-coils to try to fix or c) drill bigger re-tap and use a bigger plug.

None of these are fun.

DAMHIKIJKDI...

Dan
Live hardy, or go home. 

wheels

bogan it should be alright unless it's broken or you pinched it when you were puting it back together

rktmanfj

Quote from: wheels on October 10, 2010, 07:39:07 PM
bogan it should be alright unless it's broken or you pinched it when you were puting it back together

or if the adjacent wiring is under the cover...

Randy T
Indy


wheels

if it's leaking  you have to take  it off again and have a look, then you'll know if it's knackered or not.

Bogan

Yeah and if I have to take it off again I might as well just get a new one, and some fibre washers for the drain plugs as well :).

andyb

Those squish washers used on some spark plugs make ideal sump plug washers....

Dan Filetti

Check me on this, but I thought I heard/ read that aluminum crush washers can be re-annealed/ restored to service, by heating and cooling them quickly, like dropping them in cold water.  They're cheap, so I don't but in a pinch...

Anyone?

Dan

   
Live hardy, or go home. 

WestOzFJ

Buy what's called a "dowty washer" - which you get from a hydraulics supply business.

It's a steel washer with an O ring bonded into the id, so the washer encapsulates the O ring - one type of hydraulic threaded port connection sealing solution.

You don't have to dog 'em up tight and you'll never have a sump leak again.

Heating then quenching works for annealing copper but for aluminium the same process is hardening and tempering.....

Bogan

Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 10, 2010, 07:37:47 PMDon't go too tight on that sump plug.  You will tear it right out of there, causing you to a) replace the pan, or b) use heli-coils to try to fix or c) drill bigger re-tap and use a bigger plug.

DAMHIKIJKDI...
Not sure what your acronym is, but I pulled the sump plug last night to replace the gasket and found a strip of metal in one of the threads :cray:.

Just how much not fun is replacing a sump?  I have to get the cam chain done when I get back from holidays anyway, maybe they can do it for me at the same time?

I am figuring that if it's still leaking when I get home today I'll take a small amount of oil with me when we go away and monitor it daily :(.

Dan Filetti

DAMHIKIJKDI = "Don't ask me how I know, I just know, OK?"  AKA, been there, done that (BTDT).

In my case, I had a shop install the heli-coil they charged me like $50 and advised me to be extra careful going forward.  I was always careful and I never did tear it out, nor did it leak.  There was a forum thread a month or so ago about the options here.  Seemed to me at the time that there were some potentially new-fangled solutions available now that were not 15 years ago, still some folk on that thread did go ahead and replace the pan. 

Do a search, you should be able to find it, I think I remeber Randy saying he had some used ones?

Goog luck!

Dan     
Live hardy, or go home. 

Dan Filetti

Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 13, 2010, 07:19:21 PM
DAMHIKIJKDI = "Don't ask me how I know, I just know, OK?"  AKA, been there, done that (BTDT).

In my case, I had a shop install the heli-coil they charged me like $50 and advised me to be extra careful going forward.  I was always careful and I never did tear it out, nor did it leak.  There was a forum thread a month or so ago about the options here.  Seemed to me at the time that there were some potentially new-fangled solutions available now that were not 15 years ago, still some folk on that thread did go ahead and replace the pan. 

Do a search, you should be able to find it, I think I remember Randy saying he had some used ones?

Good luck!

Dan     

Actually it's:  "Don't ask me how I know, I just know, damn it?"
Live hardy, or go home. 

markmartin

Quote from: Bogan on October 13, 2010, 07:07:25 PM
Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 10, 2010, 07:37:47 PMDon't go too tight on that sump plug.  You will tear it right out of there, causing you to a) replace the pan, or b) use heli-coils to try to fix or c) drill bigger re-tap and use a bigger plug.

DAMHIKIJKDI...
Not sure what your acronym is, but I pulled the sump plug last night to replace the gasket and found a strip of metal in one of the threads :cray:.

Just how much not fun is replacing a sump?  I have to get the cam chain done when I get back from holidays anyway, maybe they can do it for me at the same time?

I am figuring that if it's still leaking when I get home today I'll take a small amount of oil with me when we go away and monitor it daily :(.

Tony, 
I went with option-- c.) drill bigger re-tap and use a bigger plug --  and it has held up well so far.

I think Scooterbob did the same recently? Bob, did you?  Can you help Tony out with some info?  I think Bob has the drill and tap so should be able to give you the right sizes anyway--unless postage to Australia is feasible?

I put the tap size drill bit in a tap wrench and reamed out the stripped hole and then ran the tap up through the new hole, all with the pan on the bike.  Vacuumed out the hole, ran some oil through to flush out the pan and called it good. 

Hope that is of some help,

Mark

RichBaker

Fill the tap flutes with grease, the chips will stick to that and not get into the pan....
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P