School me on the GSXR rear wheel mod

[carsick]

Ideally one of you guys who's done it could write up a how-to on it...

Seems like the write up that exists just creates more questions. Additionally, I wouldn't want to contribute to the delinquecy of an FJ'er. I had such a time rounding up the correct parts for my "bolt-on" mod that I question why not get a readily available (and Yamaha) YZF600 wheel and just get the machine work done.
Doug

[Arnie]

OK, I've been lazy about writing this again.

Get a GSXR rear wheel assembly.  Wheels from 4.5 to 5.5 can be used.
You need the whole assembly - sprocket carrier, wheel, brake support and torque arm, caliper, and all spacers.
You will also need a longer brake hose, and have to make or find an anchor for the front end of the torque arm.  Mine is homemade and around the tube next to the centerstand.  You do NOT lose the centerstand.
Others we've seen have attached to the footrest, or after bending the arm to the swingarm.
You use your FJ axle, not the GSXR axle.
The whole GSXR wheel assembly is slightly narrower than the FJ assembly and you'll need to add some 3/4" ID (20mm) washers on the outside of the assembly to fill the gap.
With the 5.5" wheel you'll need to space the countershaft sprocket out and mound the rear sprocket as close to the carrier as possible - so inspect your rear sprocket carefully.

Assemble it all and ride.

You will probably want to raise your ride height to at least stock.  You may be able to do this by making shorter 'dogbones' (depends on year) or getting a shock with an adjustable length rod.

Arnie

[rktmanfj]

  You may be able to do this by making shorter 'dogbones' (depends on year) or getting a shock with an adjustable length rod.

Arnie

If you choose to make your own dogbones, I would suggest making them from something just a bit stronger than the mild steel strap that has been previously suggested.

DAMHIKIJKOK?

Randy T
Indy

[wakdady]

My method allows me to retain center stand.  Not that I want to, because the thing scrapes the ground when cornering.

I used a mix of Suzuki GSXR1100, GSXR750 and GSX750F parts.

No machining, no welding.

Bill.

what exactly was your method? i wanted to do the GSXR wheel swap but now i'm seeing i have to make my own brake rod. Which parts did you use? Your pics help, but the parts used would be nice.

[yamahammerFJ]

Hey kids, just in case you were wondering, the sprocket nuts for the GSXR wheel only need between 35-50 ft-lbs of torque to properly tighten them, not the 61 ft-lbs the FJ needs. DAMHIK. 

[Travis398]

You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie

are you saying "expect it to rub?"

[Arnie]

You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie

are you saying "expect it to rub?"

No, it doesn't rub.  However the overall diameter of the 17" wheel and tire is SMALLER than the stock wheel-tire.  To retain stock ride height (and to be able to use your centerstand without a hernia) you'll need to raise the rear of the bike.  You may also want to increase this ride height further to take advantage of the difference in handling characteristics that the low profile tire now gives you.

Cheers,
Arnie

[carsick]

You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie

are you saying "expect it to rub?"

to be able to use your centerstand without a hernia you'll need to raise the rear of the bike.

Oh, I thought I was just getting old. THAT's why she seems so hefty!

[Harvy]

You will probably want to raise your ride height
Arnie

are you saying "expect it to rub?"

No, it doesn't rub.  However the overall diameter of the 17" wheel and tire is SMALLER than the stock wheel-tire.  To retain stock ride height (and to be able to use your centerstand without a hernia) you'll need to raise the rear of the bike.  You may also want to increase this ride height further to take advantage of the difference in handling characteristics that the low profile tire now gives you.

Cheers,
Arnie

You can figure it out for yourself......

stock 16 inch wheel radius is 8" = 203.2mm plus 80% of 150 series tire is 120mm = 323.2mm
17 inch wheel radius is 8.5" = 215.9mm plus 55% of 180 series tire is 99mm = 314.9mm

so you are loosing 8.3mm of height at the back.

Harvy

[Travis398]

wouldn't that be 8.3 mm height of tire

4.15 height at back?

[Harvy]

Travis......I was talking in terms of radius from axle to tread...... not diameter.

Harvy

[billwest]

what exactly was your method? i wanted to do the GSXR wheel swap but now i'm seeing i have to make my own brake rod. Which parts did you use? Your pics help, but the parts used would be nice.

Parts used (all Suzuki):

Rear wheel:  GSXR1100 '92-'94
Rear sprocket:  GSXR750, 40 teeth '92-'94.  This one suits the chain.
Rear caliper, torque arm: GSX750F (Katana) '94
Caliper bracket: GSXR1100W, Part No 69721-46E00
Suzuki spacers: GSXR1100 '92-'94

One extra washer each side.

Tyre:  Mich Pilot Road 2, 170 x 60

Hope this helps.

[Travis398]

Travis......I was talking in terms of radius from axle to tread...... not diameter.

Harvy

I think i get it Harvy, although I skipped a lot of Math classes when i was a kid.

I will say that it is one thing on paper but tires differ in size (from different manufacturers)

so the numbers may not match the tire.  I remember pulling my bike next to Bob's one day,

and him commenting on how much wider his tire was than mine. sure enough they were marked the

same size but he was right, his tire was at least 10 mm wider.

[Harvy]

Agreed Travis....... The Conti I have on the back at the moment is wider than the Michelin I usually use, yet they are both supposed to be 180x55 17s.
With Michi, I can fit the knuckle of my middle finger between the chain and the edge of the tyre......with the Conti, the tip of my little finger barely fits.
Maybe French mms are different to German mms.......

Be that as it may, a 17 inch rim with a 180x55 will be shorter than a 16 inch with a 150x80, so it would be a good idea to change the rear height to compensate, unless you like to create a shower of sparks going around corners.

Just as an aside, I am very impressed with the Conti Road Attack...... hangs on very well both wet and dry, and is giving me very good mileage.
And I see they have bought out the next version (aptly called the Road Attack 2). It is a single compound construction, but they cure the middle at a different temp/pressure to the edges to give dual compound tyre performance. And they don't use a mould release agent so you can (as Frank says) ride it like you stole it right from the get go.

Harvy

[andyb]

Parts used (all Suzuki):

Rear wheel:  GSXR1100 '92-'94
Rear sprocket:  GSXR750, 40 teeth '92-'94.  This one suits the chain.
Rear caliper, torque arm: GSX750F (Katana) '94
Caliper bracket: GSXR1100W, Part No 69721-46E00
Suzuki spacers: GSXR1100 '92-'94

Tyre:  Mich Pilot Road 2, 170 x 60

Hope this helps.

Perfect info to start with.  To clarify a bit:

Is that the 17x5.5 wheel?  Looks like the wheel was the same from 90-94, but the watercooled bikes had a different set of spacers for the rotor.
Originally this (on the suzuki) mounted a 180/55R17, you're using a 170/60 for clearance reasons?

Good info