Forks, Brakes, and Front wheels...Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade

[markmartin]

4) how in the world do you adjust the damping? No matter what I do, it doesn't seem to change anything. (I adjusted the preload to the maximum by pushing down the flathead and turning, then i tried to turn the damping adjuster to feel a difference, and I could not detect one) Is the damping adjustment supposed to spin forever without a hard stop? (the preload has 3 distinct positions, the damping seems to have infinite). Please don't tell me I need emulators, my wife might have a hart attack.

Thanks!

Mike,

The damping adjuster at the top of the fork is for rebound damping.  Spring rate (a different spring), spring pre-load (via a shorter or longer spacer), fork oil weight, and fork oil level are going to be your options to firm up the compression damping.  Other members of this forum have more experience and knowledge about this than I do.  They'll be able to get you going down the right path.

It would be helpful to know more  about the 'new' springs you are referring to, if you have a spacer atop your spring, what viscosity oil you have in your forks, and how much or to what level did you fill the tubes.

Mark

[RACER111V]

If the rotors are used it will take a while to "bed in" and conform to the wear pattern of the rotors.
I couldn't even ride mine with the stock rate springs.I went to the 1k springs and bypassed the anti-dive.

[Dan Filetti]

1) I am using the stock master cylinder, and I can feel what can best be described as pulsating through the brake lever. The brakes stop better than with my old setup, but it pulsates, almost like anti-lock brakes on a car, but I obviously don't have antilock brakes... does that sound dangerous to you guys?

Sounds to me like your rotors are slightly out of round/ warped.  As long as it's not dramatic, and you're not racing/ pushing the bike too close to it's limits, then I'd not say it sounds dangerous.  You can check this fairly easily, and at least have a piece of mind.   

2) A possibly related issue, when I pull the brakes, it makes a "buzzing" noise, almost like the pads are dragging on the little vent holes in the disk brakes.

I'm thinking that this buzzing is normal.  It's very common among modern vented/ holed rotors.  Most of the recent sport bike I've ridden make this noise under fairly heavy braking.  The sound I'm talking about 'winds down' as the bike slows.  Assuming this fits your description I'd not worry about it.

Dan

[Pat Conlon]

So I upgraded my front end to an '89 wheel, forks, and some gold dot R1 calipers. 
I have a couple of questions:
... the front end is MUCH softer than my 86' forks. I know that the new springs are softer, has anyone tried to put the older springs in the newer fork leg?

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

Hmmm, our research shows that the '86 and '89 oem springs are the same at .644kg/mm. Sounds like those '89 springs are sacked. Time for new springs.
Don't waste your time by re-fitting old used fork springs. Pony up $110 for new .95 or 1.0kg/mm springs.
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=564&manufacture=Yamaha&model=FJ1200&year=86%2D89&TABLEINFO=street&langname=english

Explain to SWMBO that it's a safety issue and you know that she wants you safe....right?     Works for me everytime.    Fr.Paddy

[mijohnso]

Thanks for the advice, I will slowly bring the subject of stiffer springs for safety up. I think I am going to swap the springs in the meantime, these ones are really soft.

As far as the swap goes, everything went really smooth, and the bike looks a lot better. I don't feel much of an improvement in brake feel, but that might be because the pads haven't gotten used to the rotors yet. The bike is generally more stable, and it is more confident in the corners. Unfortunately, it is looking like time to tear down for some wintertime maintenance.