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Stripped Drain Plug

Started by Scooterbob, August 11, 2010, 11:39:23 AM

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Scooterbob

Recently I attempted to repair a leak on my FJ1200 oil drain plug.  I had heard that 14mm spark plug washer would seal it really well if the copper one was too warn to do the job.  So......I proceeded to find out that my sump threads are not in the best shape when attempting to torque the drainplug.  Markmartin was nice enough to already send me the drill and tap to up-size the hole, but I was wondering about one other option first.  I came across some "Form-A-Thread" made by Loctite.  http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread-Stripped-Thread-Repair/dp/B000WSEUII  Has anyone ever used it?  Also, would it just be better to helical it?  If so, can someone please tell me all the info needed.  Such as: tap size needed to prep for helical.  What size helical and drainplug to use.  Any info would help at this point.

Again, thanks to Markmartin for lending me the tap to Up-size if I so decide to go with that option.

Do not argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


-----Bob G.-----

racerrad8

Quote from: Scooterbob on August 11, 2010, 11:39:23 AM
I came across some "Form-A-Thread" made by Loctite.  http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Thread-Stripped-Thread-Repair/dp/B000WSEUII  Has anyone ever used it?  

Also, would it just be better to helical it?  If so, can someone please tell me all the info needed.  Such as: tap size needed to prep for helical.  What size helical and drainplug to use.  

I have tried to use that product several times in the past with only partial success, I don't thing I would trust it to the drain plug.

I Heli-Coil oil pans all of the time. It is a 14 x 1.5mm kit that I have and it must be drilled with a 9/16" drill bit.

If you are going larger, then you will have to determine how big you are going to go and get the proper tools from there.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Scooterbob

Thanks Randy.  That's exactly what I needed to know. 
Do not argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


-----Bob G.-----

Scooterbob

  
[/quote]

I have tried to use that product several times in the past with only partial success, I don't thing I would trust it to the drain plug.

I Heli-Coil oil pans all of the time. It is a 14 x 1.5mm kit that I have and it must be drilled with a 9/16" drill bit.

If you are going larger, then you will have to determine how big you are going to go and get the proper tools from there.

Randy - RPM
[/quote]

Dumb question.  What is going to stop the helicoil from spinning all the way in eventually?
Do not argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


-----Bob G.-----

racerrad8

Quote from: Scooterbob on August 11, 2010, 12:19:08 PM
Dumb question.  What is going to stop the helicoil from spinning all the way in eventually?

The Heli-Coil has tension on it when it is installed. There is no pressure on the threads until it is torqued and it is pulling downward.

I have never had one move once it was installed.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Scooterbob

That's good to know.  I have heard that some people put some sort of Loctite on the coil before inserting.  But it sounds like that isn't necessary.  Thanks again.
Do not argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


-----Bob G.-----

Pat Conlon

FYI folks, LA Mike turned us on to a alternative to Helicoils, a product called Time-Sert. He swears by them (not at them)
http://www.timesert.com/

The trick would be finding the correct insert, just the right length of your oil pan threads, so you don't form a lip with insert inside the oil pan, which would keep you from a complete oil drain.

HTH.

Pura Vida amigos....back to the surf.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Kopfjaeger

may want to try a bit of loct*te bearing retainer on the helicoil, or a good thread locker, its not disagreeing with anyone, helicoils work brilliantly if they are put in correct. if its your first go....... better to be safe? if you can get hold of an the pic its worth looking at, an xray of a thread showing stress concentrations, on a normal thread, the stress is pirmarily at the top and at the bottom of the thread and a bit in the middle. because the helicoil is basically a high tension spring, the stress shown is equal pretty much through out the length of the helicoil, forcing it deeper into the threads you have tapped, so yes they shouldnt creep. and sealed for life bearings never need grease 
cheers :good2:

SlowOldGuy

A Helicoil is an open thread design.  If you put thread locker on it you  will contaminate the threads of the drain bolt thus rendering it useless.

The TimeSert won't work because it is a solid thread insert.  It will not allow all of the old oil to drain. 

DavidR.

Pat Conlon

Huh? Wrong answer mi amigo.

They're used all the time for stripped oil pan threads. Again, as I said, just get them the right length.

They work extra bitchen for stripped spark plug threads in a aluminum head...(like a Miata's DAMHIK)

Quote from: SlowOldGuy on August 11, 2010, 10:30:39 PM

The TimeSert won't work because it is a solid thread insert.  It will not allow all of the old oil to drain.  

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

JCainFJ

  Our local Auto Zone has oversize drain plugs. I used one to repair Dean's first FJ years ago. The drain plug boss that is cast into the oil pan is about (its been a long time) 14mm tall. The boss has a 6mm wide opening in its top facing the rear of the pan. This opening in this boss is so deep a proper length TimeSert is going to be about 4mm long. Thats less then 3 threads engagement to handle the drain plug torque. If you were to use a longer TimeSert you wont be able to drain all the dirty oil. Best to go with a 16mm drain plug and tap the pan correctly. Go to your local BMW dealer and get a few new crush washers, and dont over torque your new plug (6 FTLB is enough). I drilled my drain plug and safety wire it so that it can't get loose.

Scooterbob

Sooooooo, final decision is between a helical or oversize plug method. Votes as to the best?
Do not argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.


-----Bob G.-----

markmartin

Quote from: JCainFJ on August 12, 2010, 12:10:46 AM
   Best to go with a 16mm drain plug and tap the pan correctly. Go to your local BMW dealer and get a few new crush washers, and dont over torque your new plug (6 FTLB is enough). I drilled my drain plug and safety wire it so that it can't get loose.

I did this (had to do this) last summer.  Drilled out the pan and installed an oversized 16mm plug.  It has worked fine so far. 

What do you mean by "drilled my drain plug and safety wire it so that it can't get loose."  ?

Flying Scotsman

Either will work.I have done thousands of helicoils and hundreds of time serts.A time sert is overkill here all you need is a helicoil.Drilling the hole to size is important to get good threads because of the thin wall in the pan.
1984 FJ1100
1985 FJ1100
1990 FJ1200
1999 GP1200 (165 + hp)

JCainFJ

 Do the oversize drainplug, or you not be able to drain all the oil out during an oil change. When you remove the oil pan you will see what I mean!