CARB MAINTENANCE

[Riolongo]

I took my 92 FJ into a local shop to get the carbs synced to help reduce vibration, I've already done the engine mounts and I don't have the tools to do the syncing or I would have done it myself. The mechanic told me it helped a little bit but not much and after/during he said he noticed the adjustment screws or at least something with the carbs was messed up and suggested they be cleaned. I told him to go ahead hoping this will eliminate all vibration, once he tore the carbs down for cleaning and started on the reassembling he said the needle valves were seized up and should be replaced, he said he could throw it back together but no guarantees it would run any better or even the same as it was, so now I'm doing the needle valves.
Sorry to be so long winded, but my question is this; is there anything else that should be done or looked at while the carbs are torn down or should this cleaning and the new needle valves cover the major items?
Randy@RPM if you happen to read this can you tell me if you ship to Canada or just the USA?

Thanks,

Mike

[Dan Filetti]

Make sure he does the needle seat o-rings, although he'll likely do those as well, if he's competent.  Next time consider doing this yourself, there are plenty of resources available to you on this list and elsewhere to make the job fairly easy.

Good luck,

Dan

[ccsct203]

It sounds like your mechanic needs $$$$$$
for what he will charge you you could buy a nice rebuilt set on ebay or on here!

[racerrad8]

No problem shipping to anywhere via US Postal Service.

I will say that in over 15 years I have never seen a seized needle valve...Get your old parts back!

Shoot me an email directly if you need any parts or direction.

Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com

[Riolongo]

So I finally got my bike back after the shop synced the carbs, cleaned all the carbs and replaced the needle valves, no doubt it is running much smoother. The vibration is still noticeable at lower rpm but not near as much and once I'm up around 4000-4500 rpm it is really smooth. However not impressed with what it cost but that's my problem, the good thing is I believe I can now ride trouble free and enjoy the bike.
I want to change the oil as the previous owner couldn't nail down the milage when he last changed, said it was good for another 5000 miles. He used Maxima 10/40 synthetic oil and I don't have any reason to switch other than I haven't noticed this oil in the local bike shops, any one have suggestions on an alternative synthetic oil and is there a preferred oil filter? Also, does running higher octane fuel make any difference in how the bike performs or am I just wasting money and should stay with regular gas?

Thanks,


Mike

[Harvy]

Mike........good for another 5000 miles......... most folks change oil at 3000 miles intervals. If you can stick to the same oil as the PO was using. On some occasions, changing of oil brand/type can lead to clutch slippage.
If you have not done the oil filter mod, there are always plenty of the OEM and non-OEM cartridge filter elements available on eBay.
Don't waste your money on premium fuel...... here in Aus 91 octane is regular and that's all the FJ requires.


Harvy

[andyb]

Best way to know what your oil change interval should be for the type of riding that YOU do is to send it out for analysis and see how it's looking.  3000mi is a good starting point, but sooner won't hurt anything but your wallet.  With the shear forces within the transmission, not all oils can take that treatment and don't stand up as well.  Presumably the $8/L motorcycle specific stuff does, but lordy it's pricy.

Mobil1 seems to be a semi-popular oil here.  The big thing to look for is to avoid oils that are labled "energy conserving" on the back.  Don't think any 10w40 oils have that designation though, so shouldn't be an issue.  Some may argue that you'll do better with 20w50 or the like, however.

Higher octane will slightly reduce your horsepower, but may make your motor more resistant to pinging under small throttle loads (i.e., up a gentle, long hill).  If you look at the OEM recommendations, they usually specify an octane (like RON 91), but it's not a comparable number to the octane labels you'll find on an american gas pump (RON+MON/2, or however that works).  Use what works and makes you happy, I'd suggest sticking with a fairly major brand though (BP, Shell, Mobil) and avoiding some of the quickie-mart sorts of places.