Clutch dragging

[Motofun]

My '85 still has the stock clutch after all these years.  It has doubled diaphragm springs and a FJR master cylinder.  I finally got it back on the road and now the clutch master doesn't seem to completely disengage the clutch pack.  When on the center stand, in gear, with the clutch handle pulled in the rear wheel spins like the clutch is still engaged.  I can drag the wheel back down with out stalling the engine but it's a lot more than you would expect.  I checked the clutch hydraulics and all seems OK.  When pulling the handle I can hear the mechanism work in the engine (not running of course).  Any thoughts before I go doing something stupid?   Thanks

[captaudi]

How much free play do you have in the lever before it starts to load up? Should only be about 1/2"

[red]

There is a small bushing in the hand lever that pushes the clutch rod into the master cylinder.  Index #4 BUSH.
Clutch Lever Parts Fiche
IF this bushing is worn, you won't be able to fully disengage the clutch.  Clean and lube this bushing at least once or twice a year.  Otherwise, check that the hand lever pivot bolt and holes are not worn or loose-fitting.
That's just for starters.  Check back here with any results.  You can buy the BUSH separately; you do not need to buy the whole rebuild kit.

[red]

[racerrad8]

Pivot and lever are readily availble from RPM, your #1 source for all of your FJ needs.

Usually the aluminum lever is worn out too and causing disengagement issues.

https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AClutchLeverPivot

https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AClutchLever

Randy - RPM

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

I assume this would work for the 1100's as well right since they're the same master cylinder?

[racerrad8]

The 1100 has a different clutch master cylinder and lever design.

The lever pushes directly on the end of the piston.

There is NOT a brass wear bushing and pushrod.

Randy - RPM

[JohnnyTheCraneGuy]

Thanks for clarifying Randy!