Need help diagnosing spark plugs for proper jetting & Oil Level Question.

[86FJNJ]

as usual thanks Pat. This was driving me crazy, I just wanted to make sure I didn't have an oil issue. I know I didn't have a leak and there is no way the bike could burn that much oil that quickly. I'll just keep an eye on the oil level and gradually top it off to the top line...just really weird to me that it was at the top line (cold) when I drained it, I filled it with cold oil and let it idle for a few mins and then half the oil in the sight glass is gone which I would estimate to be worth about half a quart of oil or so. Only thing I could think of is maybe when draining the pan it pulls some oil from the oil cooler lines which then gets pumped backed into the oil cooler lines upon start up causing the oil level to be lower?

Is checking valve shim clearance a task a regular person (me) can do while the engine is in the bike or does it need to be done by somebody with some decent knowledge/experience and does engine need to come out? I hear a slight tap from the right intake area under the valve cover that I assume may be a valve or something...it's faint but there. There is 20,000 miles on the bike and I don't know the history if valves were ever serviced before. Am I at risk to keep riding the bike this season if I take it easy for another 500 miles or so? Anyone know of any shops in the New Jersey area that work on FJ's / Legends if it's not a task I feel confident in taking on?

[Millietant]

Checking the valve clearances is an easy job on the FJ.

Once you've got the petrol tank off (or turned around on the rear subframe) you can take the rocker cover off easily (and take the spark plugs out) and following the instructions in the manual for ensuring the appropriate TDC's (rotate the crank to line up the timing marks) you can check (and record) the actual clearances with a set of feeler gauges.

Putting in different shims to correct any out of tolerance valve clearances that you find, can be a difficult task for someone not experienced/confident in working on bike engines and you'll need the little adjusting tool to remove the old shims and put the new ones in.

The thing is, my FJ has only ever had clearances that I felt I needed to change/rectify by being too tight. I've not found any yet where the clearances were too large.

With these shim valve clearance adjusted engines, since people say "a ticky valve is a happy valve" - and then again, FJ engines are naturally a little tickier than modern liquid cooled engines.

[86FJNJ]

Thanks for the advice! If it's not a concern maybe I'll wait until this winter to take on that effort.

[Pat Conlon]

It's not a bad idea to check valve clearances. Loose valves, no problem, but look for the tight valves.

 While you have the valve cover off, replace the grommets that seal the valve cover bolts.



http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2GH-1111G-00-00&cat=39

Those little fuckers always seem to dry out and leak. Be very careful in torquing on those valve cover bolts. They have a stepped shoulder, so if you over tighten them you will break them off.

Cheers

[86FJNJ]

Thanks pat yes I did already replace the valve cover gasket and grommets with new from RPM.

What size feeler gauge should I be able to get under the came to ensure it's not too tight? Also does the cam/valve need to be in a certain rotation to check that gap? I'm guessing the valve needs to be fully closed when checking?

[Pat Conlon]

Rotate the crank so the cam lobes are pointing up (180° away from the valves)

Exhaust minimum clearance: 0.16
Exhaust maximum clearance: 0.20

Intake minimum clearance:  0.11
Intake maximum clearance:  0.15

Get a .16 and .10 for your quick go/no go measurements. Only worry about the tight no go valves.
 Measure on a stone cold engine, like overnight cold.

If you become a contributing member of the forum you will be eligible to rent the RPM shim kit which has all the shims (and tool) you need for this service work.
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8968.0

[86FJNJ]

Carb question: bikes runs good at mid range and top end. Having starting trouble and hanging idle. Won't start unless I crack the throttle 1/8 turn, even with choke fully on. Once warmed up if I blip throttle at idle it sometimes hangs at 1,500rpm for 3-5 seconds before going back down to idle. Only noticeable when idling, runs fine otherwise.

Previously I was running 40.0 pilots, 155 air bleed and fuel mixture screws were 3.5 turns out. I changed to 42.5 pilots and kept the 155 air bleed to try and fix the issue. Fuel mixture screws are 3 turns out now. I would think I can be a half turn less on the fuel mixture which the increase in pilot size.

Any ideas what's going on? I already replaced intake boot o-rings and vacuum caps as a precaution. Sprayed fluid all around intake boots and no reason to think there is a vacuum leak.


Unipod filters and F1R slip-ons.

I do use a small amount of fuel stabilizer in my fuel to help prevent the gas from going bad. But I cut the dose in half to 1/3 of directions so I don't think that's it but mention it just in case. I haven't pulled plugs yet but they were just put in 500 miles ago so probably unlikely to be a spark issue.

[Pat Conlon]

Good info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9A2TL9RvwQ&pp=ygUGI21kenJ4

[86FJNJ]

I watched it thanks. Maybe the air in NJ is different or maybe my bike is a unicorn...but I just see all you guys talking about fuel screws being 2.5 turns out etc and I'm at 3 turns out with 42.5 pilots and 155 air bleeds and I still have lean idle symptoms so I can't help but think there is something I'm missing. But at this point I'll just keep backing the screws out until it's good.

[Pat Conlon]

This exercise assumes you have clean carbs and balanced air flow.

If your carb linkage returns correctly, and you have a hanging idle, it's a lean condition. Plain and simple.
Turn your mixture screws out 1 turn (from 3.0 to 4.0 turns)
If that doesn't work, try one more 1/2 turn out.
See if that helps your hanging idle. It should, if not you have plugged fuel passages in the carbs. You've already checked for vacuum leaks. If it's not unmetered air causing your lean condition, then it's lack of fuel.

At 4.5 turns out, if you get an idle dip, then it's too rich, turn the screws in 1/4 turn increments leaner until the dip goes away.

Your hard start condition indicates dirty choke circuit or idle circuit.

Don't overheat your engine. Get a box fan (or two) to keep air blowing thru the engine or you will cook your exhaust valves and seats.