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Carb Question/Help

Started by 81Delorean, June 07, 2025, 01:30:25 PM

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81Delorean

Alright everyone, I really do hate asking for help but I need to try to figure out what's going on with my carbs and I don't have friends/mechanic/anyone local to me that can I can have look at it and see if they can point me in the right direction.

I rebuilt my carbs, all new rebuild kits from RPM, soaked the carbs, ultrasonic cleaned, blew all the passages out and ultrasonic cleaned them again, blew the passages out and dried them before putting back together. I'm confident in the cleaning, rebuild and float height.

I synch'd the carbs and am confident in that. I do have gauges and got all of the carbs even at idle and when throttle is open.

Put them on the bike, checked for vacuum leaks by spraying fluid around everywhere - there were none. 

New plugs, gapped correctly

Bike started fine and idled fine, had some hesitation off of idle so I messed around with the needle and ended up raising it one notch (RPM's are adjustable). I tried lowering it first but it seemed to make it worse.

Messed with the air mixture screws, started at 2.5 turns out, went to three, seemed worse, backed it back down to 2 I think and everything seemed good. Slight hesitation off idle but not bad at all.

I finally get to go try riding it, it started okay, idle was low even after it warmed up, more than just a little hesitation off of idle, started to pop at the exhaust after revving when the rpm's start coming back down. When I actually took off it was so sluggish it was pitiful. I decided to just go around the block at this point, when I would take off from a stop sign I had to give it so much gas and feather the clutch just to be able to get it going, almost like I was taking off in 3rd gear (I wasn't by the way), when I pulled in the driveway it died before I got it to the garage. Haven't tried restarting it yet.

Does anyone have any idea where to look? Where to start? Any needle/mixture setting recommendations? I'm in northern Arkansas and the bike does have a Vance & Hines 4 into 1 exhaust. 

Thanks in advance for any tips or advice
1996 Aprilia RS250
1989 Yamaha FJ1200
1988 Kawasaki ZX10
1964 Honda S90

86FJNJ

What air filter are you using and what pilot jets, air bleed screws and main jets are you using in the carbs?
1986 FJ1200 converted to Fuel Pump

81Delorean

Good morning, according to RPM's website it has 110 main, 155 air pilot jet and 42.5 fuel pilot jet.

Air filter = K&N filter  and it looks like someone took a router to the side cover for more airflow.

 I would put a pic of it on here but I still don't see how in the world to post pictures
1996 Aprilia RS250
1989 Yamaha FJ1200
1988 Kawasaki ZX10
1964 Honda S90

81Delorean

I need to go to a 112.5 main don't I? What about the pilot jet? Stock or go to 45mm? Or am I way off in my thoughts?
1996 Aprilia RS250
1989 Yamaha FJ1200
1988 Kawasaki ZX10
1964 Honda S90

Pat Conlon

 #112.5 mains, #42.5 pilots, 155 air bleeds, needles at middle clip. 2 1/2 turns out idle mixture screws. Set cold idle at 1k rpm. Good start.

Did you replace your manifold O rings? You should have.
Double check your float heights? Low float measurements = higher floats = rich.
Verify floats, Get some clear tubing and check your fuel levels in the carb bowls.
Good seal on your slide rubbers? Slide drop test:  Lift each slide with your finger, then drop them, they should all slowly drop uniformly.

The rule is, when your cold idle is fine but hot idle is too high, you're running rich.

Did you do the throttle blip test?
Hanging RPM = too lean
RPM drops low then slowly returns to idle = too rich.

Keep at it, you'll get her running right....cheers. Pat

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

81Delorean

Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 08, 2025, 11:20:35 AM#112.5 mains, #42.5 pilots, 155 air bleeds, needles at middle clip. 2 1/2 turns out idle mixture screws. Set cold idle at 1k rpm. Good start.

Did you replace your manifold O rings? You should have.
Double check your float heights? Low float measurements = higher floats = rich.
Verify floats, Get some clear tubing and check your fuel levels in the carb bowls.
Good seal on your slide rubbers? Slide drop test:  Lift each slide with your finger, then drop them, they should all slowly drop uniformly.

The rule is, when your cold idle is fine but hot idle is too high, you're running rich.

Did you do the throttle blip test?
Hanging RPM = too lean
RPM drops low then slowly returns to idle = too rich.

Keep at it, you'll get her running right....cheers. Pat


Thanks Pat, I did replace the manifold gaskets, I'm going to get the new mains ordered tonight and get them on the way here. I'll double check the float heights also when I have them opened up. As far as checking the float height, depending on where I read, some just put the carbs upside and measure, another says to hold them upside, tilt to a 45 degree angle and measure, another says to hold them upside down and tilt to 65 degree angle and measure (which is what I did). What is the correct tried and true way that you have found and done? I'd rather hear it from someone on here who has done it with favorable results. Thanks again for the help.

Jason

1996 Aprilia RS250
1989 Yamaha FJ1200
1988 Kawasaki ZX10
1964 Honda S90

Pat Conlon

Rotate carb body until the float tab just touches (but not compresses) the float needle.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3