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Starts but dies out immediately.

Started by Pete-speed, May 31, 2025, 08:34:55 AM

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Pat Conlon

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3


Pete-speed

Did the full rebuild on the two faulty carbs, ultrasonic cleaned the jets, etc. Probably a sin to not rebuild the two carbs that were working fine but gonna let sleeping dogs lie. Have read that resetting the pilot screws should be two turns back from bottomed as it appeared to be before disassembly. Any insights as to this adjustment as well as syncing the four after reinstallation. Reconnecting throttle cables will be fun and may alter balance when done. also, a note, when taking apart 34-year-old carb assemblies, make sure you have a good impact driver.

FJmonkey

Quote from: Pete-speed on August 27, 2025, 02:16:25 PMDid the full rebuild on the two faulty carbs, ultrasonic cleaned the jets, etc. Probably a sin to not rebuild the two carbs that were working fine but gonna let sleeping dogs lie. Have read that resetting the pilot screws should be two turns back from bottomed as it appeared to be before disassembly. Any insights as to this adjustment as well as syncing the four after reinstallation. Reconnecting throttle cables will be fun and may alter balance when done. also, a note, when taking apart 34-year-old carb assemblies, make sure you have a good impact driver.

And the proper driver. The heads look like Philips, but they are JIS. A JIS bit works really well in a JIS fastener. But a Philips drive in a JIS fastener will challenge the soft metal.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Pete-speed

did not know they were JIS screw heads, thanks. Did have good selection of driver heads that fit tight but will look into getting one

86FJNJ

RPM sells a kit to replace all the screws with allen heads, I got it for mine I think it was $25, includes o rings as well, worth it to avoid the frustrating JIS
1986 FJ1200 converted to Fuel Pump

Millietant

Quote from: Pete-speed on August 27, 2025, 02:16:25 PMDid the full rebuild on the two faulty carbs, ultrasonic cleaned the jets, etc. Probably a sin to not rebuild the two carbs that were working fine but gonna let sleeping dogs lie. Have read that resetting the pilot screws should be two turns back from bottomed as it appeared to be before disassembly. Any insights as to this adjustment as well as syncing the four after reinstallation. Reconnecting throttle cables will be fun and may alter balance when done. also, a note, when taking apart 34-year-old carb assemblies, make sure you have a good impact driver.

Not sure if you have a late registered 3CV model FJ, or an early 3XW,but if it's the 3CV, reconnecting the throttle cables is a breeze because of the splitter box part way up the cables. It means the carbs can come out and go back in with the lower sections of the cables still attached to the carbs. Why all carbed bikes didn't come like this is beyond me !!  :sarcastic:
Dean

'89 FJ 1200 3CV - owned from new.
'89 FJ 1200 3CV - no engine, tank, seat....parts bike for the future.
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - complete runner 2024 resto project
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - became a race bike, no longer with us.
'86 FJ 1200 1TX - sold to my boss to finance the '89 3CV I still own.

Pete-speed

have a replacement pilot screw assembly because the old micro o-ring was clueged. need to be sure that the o-ring goes between the spring and the tiny washer at the bottom. would have thought the washer would go between the spring and the o-ring would be on the bottom but manual seems to show different. anyone know the answer, please respond asap.

Pete-speed

o-ring has to have washer between it and spring, just bad artist depiction, compared to other manual drawings where it shows washers fatter than o-rings, problem solved although any thoughts on adjusting pilot screws would be appreciated

Aries

Two weeks ago, I cleaned the carburetors in my newly purchased FJ 1100, which had been out of service for a long time. The air mixture screws were set to 2.5 turns from the screwed-in position to a slight resistance.
I also replaced the float cover gaskets, float needles, and diaphragms.
The carburetor had completely blocked (stuck) throttle valves controlled by the diaphragms.
The whole thing was disassembled (not carbs from each other) and washed with carburetor cleaner, and blown out with compressed air. I cleaned some of the holes and channels with a very thin copper wire, woven from an electrical cable. Under no circumstances should you clean it with steel wire.
Well, good luck.

Pete-speed

after rebuilding all 4 carbs ready to reassemble. question, although manual shows two fuel feed tees between carbs 1-2 and 3-4, mine has single center fuel line feed between 2-3, always ran fine so will leave as is. Question is the function of the two plastic tees connecting carbs 1-2 and 3-4, they seem to be open vents with no hoses attached. curios as to they're purpose.

3XW_LOGIC

Quote from: Pete-speed on September 07, 2025, 01:02:31 PMafter rebuilding all 4 carbs ready to reassemble. question, although manual shows two fuel feed tees between carbs 1-2 and 3-4, mine has single center fuel line feed between 2-3, always ran fine so will leave as is. Question is the function of the two plastic tees connecting carbs 1-2 and 3-4, they seem to be open vents with no hoses attached. curios as to they're purpose.

I found a picture explaining it.

These plastic T seem to be two drain pipes along with the thinner 4 drain pipes.

The fuel from my fuel pump goes into the center aluminium T
Abhi
Mori/Iwata/Shizuoka
Japan

Pat Conlon

The gravity fed FJ's ('84 thru '87) had 2 fuel T inlets, 1 fuel inlet between carbs 1 & 2 and the second fuel inlet between carbs 3 & 4. The fuel lines supplying these 2 T's came from above the air box, like so:

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18286.0


The fuel pump FJ's ('88-'95) only had 1 fuel inlet T centered between carbs 2 & 3. The fuel line came from below the air box. This single inlet was used because of the higher line pressure from the fuel pump pushed the gas harder than the gravity flow bikes.

Your manual shows the early carb set up, you have the later fuel pump carbs.

Don't confuse your 2 fuel bowl T vents with fuel inlets.

All FJ's have 2 fuel bowl T vents, between carbs 1 & 2 and carbs 3 & 4 You want hoses on these vent T's in case you get a stuck float....you don't want that fuel dribbling on the top of your hot  engine.

Also not to be confused with your 4 choke vents, one on each carb.

Clear as mud?
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Pete-speed

just a wrap on the FJ that started but died out immediately, thanks for all the useful advice I received. After rebuilding the 4 carburetors and replacing fuel pump, fp relay, fuel and oil filters, plugs and even starter relay, she runs like a champ again, putting some fresh miles on her, although my old Metzler's look like slicks, I'm not scraping the pegs at my age so they'll have to suffice.

Pete-speed

Thanks Pat, your helpful knowledge was solid. Did have a bitch of a time reconnecting throttle cables, had to remove lower bracket from carbs to access cable ends. One thing I couldn't complete was connecting the crankcase vent hose to the bottom of the airbox. Tried formed coat hangers and other tools to get the 3/8" hose on the boss but got it adjacent at best. Think I slightly overfilled oil after change and could smell what was probably misssing going into the airbox but its fine now.