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time flies

Started by Paul1478, September 11, 2024, 01:50:56 PM

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Paul1478

A week turned into a month tuned into six months turned into a year my FJ has been sitting. I have 3 other bikes, and they were getting preferential treatment.
Battery dead, charged it, still would not start.
drained all the fuel from the tank and carbs.
would start but only run on 3 cylinders.
took the carbs off and took all the brass out and soaked overnight. cleaned the passages the best I could, and it ran on four. But piolet jets were clearly still plugged.
Called RPM and off they went.
I noticed my tachometer was not working now. It was when I parked it.
Found the wiring diagram, looked around near what I was working on and see nothing.
I have the fairing off poking around. Checking continuity, not much I can do until it is running again. I have time. Carbs should be back in around a week.
I also found RPM had 1 more exhaust in stock. I thought they stopped making them about a year ago. That will be coming with the carbs and some new filter pods.
I need to get this back into a better riding rotation. Love the bike and I know I will love it more with the new exhaust. That was my only real complaint about it, too quiet with stock pipes.


Millietant

The exhaust has been about my only real complaint with my FJ over the last 35 years. I've tried a load of aftermarket systems (6, I think) and settled on the Remus 4 into 1 in the late 90's. It's still on the bike today and still as good as new  :good2:

Sadly, they don't make them any more.
Dean

'89 FJ 1200 3CV - owned from new.
'89 FJ 1200 3CV - no engine, tank, seat....parts bike for the future.
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - complete runner 2024 resto project
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - became a race bike, no longer with us.
'86 FJ 1200 1TX - sold to my boss to finance the '89 3CV I still own.

Paul1478

I received to carbs back from Robert along with some other items.
I spent a few hours Saturday putting them back on, changing spark plugs, oil change, new pod filters, new fuel lines and filter and adding my new RPM exhaust. Started up and no surprise, ran perfect.
I was a little worried about what it would sound like before starting it up. Sounds exactly how I hoped it would.
 
My tachometer is still not working. I have power to the tack (brown and black wires) I have continuity on gray from igniter to the junction to the tack. I need to take the fairing back off to be 100% sure but it looks like my tachometer is dead.

Bike back into rotation. I am not sure how something like the sound can make the bike so much more fun to ride but it has.

Pat Conlon

Well done. .... RPM Robert does nice work, he sure makes it easy.
IIRC There is a grey tach wire going down to the #2/3 (right side) coil you may want to check out.

Enjoy your work! I love to read these resurrection stories.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

red

Quote from: Paul1478 on September 23, 2024, 07:57:46 AMMy tachometer is still not working. I have power to the tack (brown and black wires) I have continuity on gray from igniter to the junction to the tack. I need to take the fairing back off to be 100% sure but it looks like my tachometer is dead.
Paul,

No tach/ jumpy tach is often caused by bad grounds.  Check the ground wires going to the instrument panel, and check that each ground wire is connected to a solid ground.  Dull metal is corroded metal. Don't think that a wire terminal screwed to the chassis must be a good ground.  It will be, though, if the metal contact faces are made clean and shiny.

Auto parts stores should have the wire brushes that look like a toothbrush, but with wire bristles.  They are cheap, and just the tool needed to brush up the ground connections.  HTH.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Paul1478

sorry, I just saw this. Thank you for the suggestion
I have done a voltage drop test on the negative from battery to the negative at the cluster. The voltage drop was very low around half a volt. Positive is around 1.8 volts lower.
I have been riding it a lot lately but when it gets a little colder, I will remove the fairing again and try going directly from the battery to the tack and from the igniter to the tack. If it still does not work; I have to assume that it is the tack not working.