Resurrecting my dad's 3CV

[orc4n]

Hallo from Germany,

About a month ago at a wedding, my dad and another guest talked about motorcycling, re-igniting my wish to start cycling myself. I've always wanted to get a better technical understanding of the inner working of bikes, so fixing up my dad's 1989 3CV was the perfect opportunity to get a bike, and get working :D

The last time he rode it was 1997 - it's been sitting in a garage since then.
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Here's a picture of how it looked when my dad was on vacation, when the bike was still - running about 30 years ago:
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Last week I took off the tarp and cleaned out the garage, allowing me a first visual inspection:
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Overall it seems like the fairing and dash are in pretty good shape, and most of the engine block paint is also still present. Obviously I gotta do all of the maintenance a bike needs after all of these years - replacing all fluids and fuel/hydraulic lines, replacing seals where needed, clean the carbs, replace battery and bulbs, ... Hopefully I don't need to open up the engine block and transmission.
 However, there were mice in the rear section under the seat, and there's a few sketchy spots around the bike I'm not too sure about - the white spots might either be battery acid or mice pee. What I'm more worried about is the (potential) leak near the transmission. Again, might just be scratches from the mice, but input would be appreciated :)
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Tomorrow I'll roll the bike to the garage at my house so I can work on it properly (thankfully the tyres still hold pressure), but I already have two points where I'd like some input on:

• The fuel cap doesn't open, I can only turn the key approx. 30 degrees. I already tried oiling the cylinder, but that didn't seem to do the trick...
• Should I replace the oil before trying to start the engine; or repair it, start then engine, and then change the oil when warm? Either way, I probably need to the change the oil again after a few hundred kilometers to get all of the smut out of the system.

Either way, I'm glad this forum exists, and thanks for reading :)

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(old first aid kit I found in the bike)

[Millietant]

That looks like a great bike to be working on, congratulations.

Regarding couple of your questions, the "Oil leak" Of actually the clutch slave cylinder seals leaking - a common enough issue and one easily tackled at minimal cost.

Definitely change the oil and cooler before you start the engine - you can check them both for debris before turning the engine over.

As well as a thorough carb cleaning, with new seals and o-rings, in addition to all the things you have mentioned, you're going to want to put new tyres on before riding it, and I'd put new brake pads in it too.

Hope it all goes well and keep us updated on progress - and any issues you come across...

Best of luck from the UK.

[Millietant]

Sorry for the "auto text" typing error - change the oil and FILTER, not the "cooler"

[Pat Conlon]

Yes, change oil, filter, brake, clutch fluids. Get and install a clutch slave seal kit. Get a clutch master, front brake master and rear brake master seal kits....You may or may not need them (but probably will)
 Remove the fuel tank, clean (and seal if needed) Replace the fuel lines and fuel filter.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A1FK-24560-10
Replace the oem rubber brake lines with new TUV  braided stainless steel lines.
Get a carb screw kit with o rings from RPM,
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit
Learn about the FJ Mikuni BS 36CV carbs, find someone local with an ultrasound cleaner for cleaning the carbs. Buy new tires, plugs and battery. Plan on possibly needing a new fuel pump.

Remove plugs, squirt some penetrating oil into the cylinders, let stand over night. Remove left side crank cover, with a box end wrench, slowly, carefully rotate the crank back and forth in small increments, easy does it. If the piston rings break free, good...if not, squirt in more oil, let sit, and try again the next day....back and forth little at a time....
Repeat as necessary until the pistons break loose.
Never, never, never use the electric starter to do this... you will break rings, scratch cylinder walls and stretch the starter chain.
 Do it by hand.
Slowly. Little at a time. Easy does it.

Good on ya for doing this...let us know how we can help. Read our Files section
"We have miles and miles of files, pretty files of your forefathers fruit..."

Cheers lad

Pat

[orc4n]

I got pretty busy with university (among other stuff), but finally got around to properly working on the bike again.

So here's a small update on my progress:
Successes:
- I got the fuel cap to open (lots of penetrating oil)
- drained the oil, removed oil filter
- briefly plugged in battery, tested lights
- hand cranked the engine using the rear tire in 5th gear. bit of wd-40, let it sit over night, cranked right away.

"Work in progress":
- I'm still struggeling with removing the piston of the master brake cylinder. It's quite gummed up, but at least the circlip is out now. Currently using rust remover to hopefully salvage the cylinder block at least...
- removed carbs, partly disassembled. Got new gaskets for float bowls and needle valves. However I am struggeling with stuck screws. I got a impact JIS driver, WD-40 and a heat gun, but it's hard to gauge whether or not the soft metal screwheads will cam out...

I'm using the clymer repair manual together with youtube videos to figure out what to remove. I know how a carburettor works in general, but I can't seem to find material that explains how exactly the BS36 works. Anyone got some sources for me here?

Here's what the bike currently looks like:
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As well as the carbs - I also quickly found out that I need to be very diligent with storing the parts of the bike.
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And also big thanks for the guidance so far, I was actually thinking about cranking the engine using the starter - probably saved me some later issues there Pat

[orc4n]

Forgot to mention, but I also plan on replacing the brake+clutch, as well as the fuel lines.
For the hydraulic steel flex lines, I'm thinking of going with Spiegler - anyone got experience with them?
However I'm not sure about which fuel lines to buy. Most I found online seem a lot thicker, which might be problematic with routing?

[Waiex191]

I bought a set of Spiegler front brake lines from RPM.  I went with the dual lines, it has a double banjo at the master cylinder and a long line to each front caliper.  They seem great to me.

Lots of threads here about replacing the master cylinder and calipers with later model bolt-on Yamaha parts, which is very worthwhile.  Here is my thread from where I first got my FZ1 parts:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19343.45

1989 is a great year!

[orc4n]

Thanks for the feedback - I think I'll go with the OEM routing, otherwise I'd need to get an inspection done (TÜV) for getting the bike legally approved for road usage. Though double banjo sounds nice... :/

Are the master cylinder and caliper exchange basically "plug and play"? If so, that might be a good way to go about it, as  both piston assemblies seem pretty stuck.

Another update: checked the starter today, working without issues. Also got the float pins out after lots of WD-40, however the screws securing the float valve seat are gunked up. Hopefully I'll get that unstuck during the next few days, so that I can finally fire up the engine for the first time in roughly 25 years

Henrik