Bespoke swingarm spindle

[joebloggs]

As I've removed both footrest plates I'm stuck with a rather ugly swingarm pivot bolt, it has to go.

I guess the easiest and cheapest option is to extend the stock thread and cut it to length, not a pretty but would do the job, but by the time I've paid someone to modify it, re finish to prevent it corroding I may as well purchase some stainless round bar and have it machined to size.

My idea, please feel free to but in and shoot me down.

16mm round bar, M16x1.5 thread both ends, M16 half nut either tacked or permanent thread lock one end and a M16 Castle half nut (aesthetics) with R-clip the other. Washers to suit.

Any reason the half nut wont withstand 65ft-lbs of torque?

I know stainless isn't as tough as steel but at 16mm I don't see it bending in a hurry.

OK or not OK?

[fj1289]

I think you'll be fine.  Maybe pull it and check it occasionally if you are concerned?

Why just a half-nut (I think in the US we call them jam nuts)?  I'd suggest a full nut welded in place - then grind smooth and polish?

[fj1289]

Also, the easier way to modify the stock spindle is to cut to length on the bolt head end.  Then weld a new head on it (and grind/cut smooth).  Pretty sure this is how they modded my stock one for the race bike - you can see the cut marks where it looks like they chucked it up in a lathe and turned the end flat. 

[joebloggs]

Also, the easier way to modify the stock spindle is to cut to length on the bolt head end.  Then weld a new head on it (and grind/cut smooth).  Pretty sure this is how they modded my stock one for the race bike - you can see the cut marks where it looks like they chucked it up in a lathe and turned the end flat. 

I like that idea, shorten it where damaging the coating doesn't matter.

TBH the reason for the half nut was purely cosmetic, just don't want two large nuts sticking out the side of the frame, aint exactly pretty under the footrest plates, felt the nuts would only add to it.

[joebloggs]

I ended up using a pair of M16 Probolt stainless nuts, only 14mm deep but they still look bloody huge, flange on the frame doesn't help. I think once the rearsets exhaust are fitted they'll blend in a bit.

[joebloggs]

Nearly ready for powder coat, just need to sort the rear tank mount and finish off the exhaust (final bend coming tomorrow) and it'll be ready to pull apart.

Going to leave the subframe bare for now as still work to sort out.

[joebloggs]

[Pat Conlon]

I think those bolts look just fine Joe...I looking forward to your progress on this build.  When it came time for me to clean up the sloppy looking welds on my frame I used a high temp. JB Weld epoxy putty and sanded smooth the areas. I chose the high temp putty in case I wanted to powder coat the frame. The putty should withstand any oven curing.

Looking good Joe, keep it up!   Pat

[joebloggs]

I think those bolts look just fine Joe...I looking forward to your progress on this build.  When it came time for me to clean up the sloppy looking welds on my frame I used a high temp. JB Weld epoxy putty and sanded smooth the areas. I chose the high temp putty in case I wanted to powder coat the frame. The putty should withstand any oven curing.

Looking good Joe, keep it up!   Pat

Thanks

When the bikes back together after coating I'll be using the same style stud/bi hex nut for the engine and all suspension fasteners

I'm OK with the welds, well, certainly wont be putting any effort into covering them up.

Hoping to get the frame to the powder coaters next week.

[FJmonkey]

Product placement

Look up alvin lab metal repair putty

This stuff is designed for metal repair and powder coating. I used it, it works. 

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Mark.