Installed Barnett clutch kit

[aigram]

I just wrapped up installing the Barnett clutch kit from RPM; It was surprisingly less scary than I thought it would be! The biggest hassle was the skinny metal wire that wraps around the clutch basket, that was definitely a small-hands preferred job.
Are there any gotchyas I should watch out for this riding season? Are there any fasteners that need checking for proper torque later on, such as the fasteners on the Barnett pressure plate? In general, on any fastener that's subject to rotational forces, I've always thought that it's good practice to re-check torque later on.
I also need to come clean on the oil change I did here, and am looking for feedback. I had brand new Motul 20w-50 in the crankcase, and it had less than 5 miles of riding on it. I drained the oil into a brand new & clean container, then poured that oil back into the crankcase. I did this because I forgot to order a new jug of Motul, and I justified it because the oil was slightly less than brand new. Was this acceptable to do?

[T Legg]

Next time if you lean your bike over on the side stand you won't need to drain the oil when you do clutch work.

[aviationfred]

I would add that the next time you have the clutch cover off.....

Access the Metal Wire and remove it. Wad it up and throw it in the bin.




Fred

[aigram]

Next time if you lean your bike over on the side stand you won't need to drain the oil when you do clutch work.

Well, dangit. Thanks for the pro-tip, sure wish I could have figured that one out!

[aigram]

I would add that the next time you have the clutch cover off.....

Access the Metal Wire and remove it. Wad it up and throw it in the bin.




Fred

Ha, sounds good. I could not for the life of me figure out what that metal wire was really doing. I wrote it off as an engineer in the 80's decided it needed to be there, so I should just put it back.

[Pat Conlon]

This information was there in the Clutch Files waiting for you.

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

We spent some time putting together that post which now has over 4,120+ views.

Hope you get that wire out, you've been warned.

[RPM - Robert]

Oil should be fine. Take the clutch pack back out and throw it in the garbage before you ruin your clutch pack.

Now that you know the sudd stand trick, use it before it's too late.

[aigram]

Oil should be fine. Take the clutch pack back out and throw it in the garbage before you ruin your clutch pack.

Now that you know the sudd stand trick, use it before it's too late.

Hey Robert, are you referring to the metal wire here? As in I should take the clutch pack back out and throw the metal wire in the garbage?

[aigram]

This information was there in the Clutch Files waiting for you.

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

We spent some time putting together that post which now has over 4,120+ views.

Hope you get that wire out, you've been warned.

Consider me warned, Pat; It's coming out this week. If only I had trusted my gut on that one! That writeup is wonderful.
As my torque wrench isn't terribly accurate below 10 ft/lbs, I'll see if I can take the opportunity to find a better wrench before reinstalling the cover. I reinstalled the fasteners at 10 ft/lbs, so just a few ft/lbs over spec.

[Pat Conlon]

Alex, ok, good call on getting that wire out of your clutch pack...

Yes, those clutch case bolts are lightly torqued with 7.2 ft/lbs (10nm / 86 inch/lbs) with very little room for error...there's not a lot of meat on those aluminum case threads.

Also remember, the torque values on those 6 spring plate bolts is even lighter at 5.8 ft/lbs (8nm)

Beg, borrow or steal a proper torque wrench.

Cheers

Pat

[RPM - Robert]

Oil should be fine. Take the clutch pack back out and throw it in the garbage before you ruin your clutch pack.

Now that you know the sudd stand trick, use it before it's too late.

Hey Robert, are you referring to the metal wire here? As in I should take the clutch pack back out and throw the metal wire in the garbage?

Yes, seems I missed a few keywords there.