Remind me, ‘89 fuel line replacement, filter to pump.

[Pat Conlon]

Hey folks, I know it's been discussed before, pardon my search laziness, what do you do for the fuel pumpers, fuel line replacement (filter to pump) when you have 2 different sizes on the same line?
Smaller 6.8mm at the pump and larger 8.6mm at the filter outlet.
If no line size adapter is available, do you just heat up the small line and stretch it over the filter?
I don't like doing that but I will if there is no other solution. I recall Rick did that to his '92 only to have the line split where it was stretched at the filter, reducing his beautiful '92 it into a pile of molten aluminum.  
I do plan on a heat sleeve insulation on the fuel lines.

Thanks in advance

Pat

[Waiex191]

All my line is 1/4". I've had no issues related to fuel line.

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Bryan, so you stretch your 1/4" ID (6.35mm) fuel line over the big 11/32" OD (8.6mm) filter outlet.
What kind of fuel line are you using?

[ribbert]

I can't comment on the FJ having 2 sizes of fuel line (?) but I can tell you that only the correct size for the fitting should be used, it shouldn't be forced or stretched or as it hardens (which it will) it will split.

Never use worm drive hose clips. At that size they're rarely perfectly circular when tightened and their action makes easy, and leads to, inevitable over-tightening, often to stop it leaking because of the out of round. This can cut the hose or rupture the internal layers. Those layers all have different qualities and behave differently when squashed. It's not uncommon to see fuel weeping from around the clamp on what appears to be unbroken fuel line. SS clamps are the worst because of their sharp edges.

Certainly low pressure systems let you get away with a lot but still, it's poor practice and increases the risk of failure. Fuel line clips make removing and replacing hoses much easier. 
There are other types of threaded clamps that are suitable but all suffer from the same problem of making it too easy to over tighten, and everyone does!

The last time I mentioned this my advice was resoundingly criticized by a long term user of hose clamps and ironically, just a few days later this caught my eye at a manshed day, the de-laminating and rupturing of a fuel line by a hose clamp, just what I was referring to.





Try not to buy anymore hose than you need, it will go off sitting on the shelf. I buy a metre at a time of a couple of common sizes.

Are metric sizes (in all things) becoming more readily available at auto stores in the US? I see Toyota has knocked off GM as the biggest selling vehicle brand in the US, a position GM had held since 1931. Honda and VW are the second and third most popular passenger vehicles. I just wonder to what extent all this metric product has trickled down to retail.

[Waiex191]

Pat,
I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C34OUM

I don't remember struggling to get it on any fitting. I've mostly used the spring clamps.

[melloncollie]

Noel, on the automotive retailer side there really isn't anything metric yet.  It was only recently we got metric wrenches and fasteners (kidding but sometimes it doesn't feel like it).  The closest standard size is used in place of any metric line (3/8 for 10mm etc).  Any sort of barbed fitting is going to be standard also, at least stocked in house.  As far as the clamps go the fuel injection style would alleviate some, but likely not all, of your concerns.  They'd still be easy to over tighten and aren't as easy to work with.

Unfortunately I don't have much of an answer for you Pat I'm sorry.  I ended up going with a Facet pump and opted for 5/16 fittings, a 5/16 filter, and used Carquest branded fuel line.  Once upon a time it was Dayco, then Gates.  I'm not sure who supplies it these days.

[Motofun]

US cars have been metric for quite a while.  Unfortunately the Detroit gurus just had to screw with the "standards".  The standard wrench sizes on all my Japanese motorcycles are 8/10/12/14/17 mm.  On my US cars they are 9/13/15/18 mm.  I probably have 5 complete sets of fractional inch wrenches, sockets, etc as they were passed down through the ages.  I'm in the process of creating multiple sets of metric wrenches as there is always that ONE wrench located in the basement when I need it out in the barn!!!  Not to mention I need traveling sets for the truck and the trailer. 

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Noel on the reminder of using the correct spring clamps....good stuff.

Ok, I've figured it out.... 5/16" fuel line from the petcock outlet to inlet barb on fuel filter —— > 5/16" line on fuel filter outlet barb to 5/16 to 1/4 brass adaptor then 1/4" fuel line to fuel pump inlet barb.



Out of nowhere....My oem 33 year old fuel line split, (1989 FJ) leaking fuel everywhere....luckily it was in my driveway and not out on the road or worse, in my garage. What made this so dangerous is that this split happened on the line before the fuel pump so it drained around a 1/2 gallon of fuel before I could get the seat off, side covers off and tank lifted so I could turn the petcock off.



The oem line looked fine on the outside but inner wall of my fuel line was degrading



Moral of the story: Replace your oem fuel line. For less than $20, it's chump change.

[Motofun]

The best clamps I've ever used are the Oetiker clamps.  They are single use, SS clamps.  I use them mostly on places that don't get removed frequently like cooling hoses and fuel lines (except the one you have to disconnect to remove the tank)

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Jack, I'll look into them.