new owner, want to overhaul

[maartenvuerstaek]

Hi everyone, I recently bought a '91 FJ1200 (I am from '91 myself, so it's quite symbolic)

It has the usual dents & scrapes for an 88K miles bike, but it still looks good and starts easily.  I've bought this bike with the knowledge it would need love&work, and I intend to do that.
So my question here is, what do I do and where do I start?  I'm planning to replace my sparkplugs, review my carbs, check brakes, tyres, filters, oil, etc..
any tips, links, jokes, everything would be apreciated!

cheers!

[Motofun]

Looks like you've got the basics covered.  If it was me I'd ride it while keeping an eye on those basics and let it tell me what needed attention.  You may want to go over the various nuts and bolts and make sure they're proper.

[red]

So my question here is, what do I do and where do I start?  I'm planning to replace my sparkplugs, review my carbs, check brakes, tyres, filters, oil, etc..  any tips, links, jokes, everything would be apreciated!
cheers!

maartenvuerstaek,

I'd suggest:
* Use one can of Seafoam (or any good carb cleaner) in the gas tank, mixed per label specs for a start.  
* Remove any old brake fluid in the reservoirs using paper towels, and add fresh brake fluid (use only the type that the  reservoir cover specifies).  
* Bleed the brakes and clutch cylinder until only fresh fluid comes out.  Speedbleeders.com can make this an easy, one-guy job.
* Check the age of your tires.  Click the link and scroll down a bit, for pix.  For the hearty FJ, I'd say that tires are done after 6~8 years, regardless of any remaining tread depth.  No age cracks in the tires, no bulges, no oil damage, and no delaminations.  Other countries may have different tire date systems.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
* Add a TPMS; even the cheap valve-cap systems are good.  You need sensors with replaceable batteries.  Feed the little display with a mini-USB cable, done deal.  T-valve stems or internal sensors are nice, but not necessary.  I do not consider a TPMS to be optional gear.
* A Battery Tender (or similar) is good for the bike, and the SAE cable (supplied) will give you an accessory plug for an air pump and other stuff.
* Check ABS system in the shop, if present.   See Factory Shop Manual, or on-line resources.
* Check rear wheel drive chain and sprockets.

[5speed]

* Check rear wheel drive chain and sprockets.

My fj is my first chain driven bike...how does one check the chain and sprockets? I know if the teeth are worn to a point the sprockets are done but is there a way to determine they need replacing before that?

[red]

* Check rear wheel drive chain and sprockets.

My fj is my first chain driven bike...how does one check the chain and sprockets? I know if the teeth are worn to a point the sprockets are done but is there a way to determine they need replacing before that?

5speed,
You can find lots of advice about that, on-line.  Everybody has their opinions, even me.  

https://youtu.be/XVcE9VhFVN4?t=15

In general, sprocket teeth should not be pointy or chipped. They should not look like a breaking ocean wave.  Sprocket valleys should be U-shaped, not ovally.  A straightedge on one side of a sprocket should point at the same side of the other sprocket, for both front and rear sprockets, within reason.  If that is not true, the chain will wear faster.  Sprocket shims or other adjustments may be needed, but usually the rear wheel axle positioners can be adjusted to pull the rear wheel straight, and at the correct chain tension.

Grab the chain (use pliers, gently) at the rearmost point on the rear sprocket, and try to pull it rearward away from the sprocket.  If you find enough daylight to insert as small screwdriver between the chain plate and the sprocket valleys, the chain or the sprocket (or both) are getting worn.  3/16" (~4mm) of daylight is about the wear limits, for me.  With the engine OFF and in Neutral, use a bar or screwdriver to push down on the center span of the chain as an assistant rotates the rear wheel.  The tool may move up and down a bit, as the rear wheel rotates.  If this movement is less than an inch, your rear sprocket is still round.  Still, mark the sprocket where the chain is tightest, and make any chain tension adjustments with the wheel set in the same position.

O-ring or X-ring chains last far longer than the old junk ever did.  Count the links in your chain, so you will know what length of chain you will need to replace it.  If you think your sprockets are getting old, buy the right stuff now, before you need them.  They will not go bad as you finish off the old sprockets.  If you need to replace sprockets or the chain,  it is usually best to replace them as a set.  Worn sprockets can cause premature wear on a new chain, and vice versa.

You can get dedicated chain lube in aerosol cans, with a long skinny straw outlet.  If you stand to one side of the bike and spray lube on the chain, I guarantee you will get more lube everywhere than you will get on the chain.  Do this: Put the bike on the center stand, start the engine, and engage First gear at idle.  Get behind the bike, and lay the long skinny straw along the top of the chain, pointed at the front sprocket.  Press the release button only enough to cause a dribble of lube out onto the chain.  Continue this slow dispensing of lube until you see a little chain lube on the rear sprocket.  That's it.  Shut down the engine, go to Neutral gear, and if you wish, you can wipe any excess chain lube from the chain with a cloth or paper towel as the rear wheel is rotated by hand.  NEVER put cloth or hands near a chain while the engine is turning; no exceptions.

There is more to know, of course.  This much is just the basics.

HTH.




.

[Urx]

Alternatively buy a scotoiler or similar auto oiler and forget faffing with spray lube.
Second hand kits turn up on fleabay frequently as they last pretty well and are very simple.
Ive had one fitted to my fj1200 since 1991 and im still using the original chain & sprockets fitted at the factory.
Mileage is 32k and no tight spots etc.

[CutterBill]

So my question here is, what do I do and where do I start? 

Here is a list to get you started. Feel free to disagree/ignore as you see fit...
Bill

[5speed]

* Check rear wheel drive chain and sprockets.

My fj is my first chain driven bike...how does one check the chain and sprockets? I know if the teeth are worn to a point the sprockets are done but is there a way to determine they need replacing before that?

5speed,
You can find lots of advice about that, on-line.  Everybody has their opinions, even me.  

https://youtu.be/XVcE9VhFVN4?t=15

In general, sprocket teeth should not be pointy or chipped. They should not look like a breaking ocean wave.  Sprocket valleys should be U-shaped, not ovally.  A straightedge on one side of a sprocket should point at the same side of the other sprocket, for both front and rear sprockets, within reason.  If that is not true, the chain will wear faster.  Sprocket shims or other adjustments may be needed, but usually the rear wheel axle positioners can be adjusted to pull the rear wheel straight, and at the correct chain tension.

Grab the chain (use pliers, gently) at the rearmost point on the rear sprocket, and try to pull it rearward away from the sprocket.  If you find enough daylight to insert as small screwdriver between the chain plate and the sprocket valleys, the chain or the sprocket (or both) are getting worn.  3/16" (~4mm) of daylight is about the wear limits, for me.  With the engine OFF and in Neutral, use a bar or screwdriver to push down on the center span of the chain as an assistant rotates the rear wheel.  The tool may move up and down a bit, as the rear wheel rotates.  If this movement is less than an inch, your rear sprocket is still round.  Still, mark the sprocket where the chain is tightest, and make any chain tension adjustments with the wheel set in the same position.

O-ring or X-ring chains last far longer than the old junk ever did.  Count the links in your chain, so you will know what length of chain you will need to replace it.  If you think your sprockets are getting old, buy the right stuff now, before you need them.  They will not go bad as you finish off the old sprockets.  If you need to replace sprockets or the chain,  it is usually best to replace them as a set.  Worn sprockets can cause premature wear on a new chain, and vice versa.

You can get dedicated chain lube in aerosol cans, with a long skinny straw outlet.  If you stand to one side of the bike and spray lube on the chain, I guarantee you will get more lube everywhere than you will get on the chain.  Do this: Put the bike on the center stand, start the engine, and engage First gear at idle.  Get behind the bike, and lay the long skinny straw along the top of the chain, pointed at the front sprocket.  Press the release button only enough to cause a dribble of lube out onto the chain.  Continue this slow dispensing of lube until you see a little chain lube on the rear sprocket.  That's it.  Shut down the engine, go to Neutral gear, and if you wish, you can wipe any excess chain lube from the chain with a cloth or paper towel as the rear wheel is rotated by hand.  NEVER put cloth or hands near a chain while the engine is turning; no exceptions.

There is more to know, of course.  This much is just the basics.

HTH..

Thank you for the great info red. I think I will get new sprockets and chain over the winter for peace of mind in the spring. I've been putting the miles on the bike and it seems every time I take it out it works better. It certainly is starting better than it did when I first got it. I've run sea foam thru the fuel system twice now which I'm assuming helped.