Texas FJ1200

[red]

I am making a list of parts I "need" for my FJ. I am currently looking through MSP (Motorcycle Spare Parts). They have everything extremely well laid out for finding the exact little parts I'm looking for, but the nuts and bolts I'm missing isn't worth $40+ they're charging in shipping. And their part #'s aren't pulling up anything on RPM. Any suggestions?

Spider,

Give a man a fish, and he eats for a day.  Teach a man to fish, and he sits in the boat drinking beer all day . . .  (or something like that).

WWW.ANYWHO.COM
. . . which is the fer-real Internet Yellow Pages (all the other Internet YPs are wannabees).  "Nuts and Bolts" is a separate heading in the Yellow Pages, better than Hardware or Home Improvements.. 
Click on the "Yellow Pages" (Find a Business) tab, then put in
Nuts and Bolts
and if you give a local ZIP code, ANYWHO will SORT the results by distance from you.  ANYWHO will even print out maps for you.  Call ahead to verify stock, of course.

Metric hardware has quality ranges, so ask for the best.

Now if you need to DECODE the Yamaha Part Numbers for hardware into actual bolt sizes, here's how:

https://www.yamahastarbolt.com/technical-library/decode-yamaha-part-numbers/

There you go.

[Millietant]

Just for peace of mind, I'd definitely address the sheared off bolt on the brake caliper. Not sure how that has happened, but it's definitely a red flag issue for me.

I would also be replacing the missing footrest plate bolt as soon as I could - it wouldn't stop me riding the bike, but I wouldn't want it missing for too long. I'd be surprised if someone on here didn't have a spare - or maybe even RPM might have a spare lying about that they could send you. I've got a spare you could have, but unfortunately I'm in the UK.

Is this the part you're talking about? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274040938372

That's the part, but all you need is the missing bolt - no need to buy the whole unit. 

[RPM - Robert]

PM me the part numbers and I will see if we have them. Some of the smaller screws and bolts that aren't on the fairing showing we do not carry. As there really isn't a need to have $9 screw when you can pick up the same screw in stainless at your local hardware store for pennies on the dollar usually.

[SpiderFJ1200]

My younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?

[FJmonkey]

"It's the right size, but has a single contact point."

The single contact in the center sounds like an 1156.

[red]

My younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?

SpiderFJ1200,

Sounds like the Previous Owner installed the wrong socket.  Do all of the other turn signals also stay on as running lights, when not flashing?

You need the same type of socket on each side.  If the other signal has a filament always turned on when the bike is running, as running lights, then you will need a two contact socket where you find only one contact.  Search for the unused wire that should go to the correct socket, when doing the install.

[ribbert]

My younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?

SpiderFJ1200,

Sounds like the Previous Owner installed the wrong socket.  Do all of the other turn signals also stay on as running lights, when not flashing?

You need the same type of socket on each side.  If the other signal has a filament always turned on when the bike is running, as running lights, then you will need a two contact socket where you find only one contact.  Search for the unused wire that should go to the correct socket, when doing the install.

Were running lights a US market requirement? I have only ever seen single filament indicators here.
Other than Volvos, were running lights even a thing back then?

[SpiderFJ1200]

My younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?

SpiderFJ1200,

Sounds like the Previous Owner installed the wrong socket.  Do all of the other turn signals also stay on as running lights, when not flashing?

You need the same type of socket on each side.  If the other signal has a filament always turned on when the bike is running, as running lights, then you will need a two contact socket where you find only one contact.  Search for the unused wire that should go to the correct socket, when doing the install.

Oh, wow... yeah, that's exactly what it looks like. One stays on and the other doesn't. Guess I need to find that part now.

I also realized I should have gotten 2x 1157 W instead of the 1157 R while doing the tail lights. Still, way better than it was.

[SpiderFJ1200]

My younger brother was following behind me the other night and commented that my brake light seemed kind of dim. So I decided to swap out everything with LED lights. I got 2x 1156 Y, 2x 1157 Y, and a 1157 R. Already did the headlight prior to this. I did the turn signals first, but when I got to the front left blinker I encountered a different socket than expected. It's the right size, but has a single contact point. Is this a different bulb type I need to get?

SpiderFJ1200,

Were running lights a US market requirement? I have only ever seen single filament indicators here.
Other than Volvos, were running lights even a thing back then?

It's a 1990. Camaros didn't get running lights until 1997. So, no, it wasn't a thing in the US back then.

[aviationfred]

Were running lights a US market requirement? I have only ever seen single filament indicators here.
Other than Volvos, were running lights even a thing back then?

[/quote]

Noel,

Yes, running lights were a US Department of Transportation requirement on motorcycles in 1990.
The front turn signals on a US spec FJ have a 3 wire socket and use 1157 bulbs.


Fred

[SpiderFJ1200]

Yes, running lights were a US Department of Transportation requirement on motorcycles in 1990.
The front turn signals on a US spec FJ have a 3 wire socket and use 1157 bulbs.


Fred

So should these work? https://www.amazon.com/BAY15D-Light-Socket-Holder-Connector/dp/B07WSP7FXC/ref=pd_lpo_1

[SpiderFJ1200]

Yes, running lights were a US Department of Transportation requirement on motorcycles in 1990.
The front turn signals on a US spec FJ have a 3 wire socket and use 1157 bulbs.


Fred

So should these work? https://www.amazon.com/BAY15D-Light-Socket-Holder-Connector/dp/B07WSP7FXC/ref=pd_lpo_1

It looks like this will work. The ground on what I have is attached to the housing. There are 3 wires on the other end of the connector, but only 2 wires are coming in from the signal side. A heat gun and some MEK should do the trick.

[SpiderFJ1200]

Update:

I rode the FJ to HWY 105 get it inspected. $7 and it was done. Went to ACE hardware from there to get some of the little nuts and bolts I needed. All the while, the bike is riding a bit squirelly. I bought a cheap air pressure gauge to check the air in the tires, but nothing showed up on either tire. I rode it down the road to the nearest Shell Station, and attempted to pay for air. $6 later, I managed to put about 20 lbs in the front tire, but for some reason couldn't get anything to change with the rear tire. Then it started to rain. Rode it back home, and hooked up the air compressor to find the rear tire was flat, and the front needed a bit more. I've had to ride on a flat before, front or rear. But both tires is a first. Found my good air gauge after the fact. I'm probably going to be down today and maybe tomorrow too. That ride took quite a bit out of me, and my everything is sore this morning.

[Pat Conlon]

Wow

[red]

Robert,

If you do not have metal valve stems, I would recommend them strongly.  Old rubber valve stems can crack, and maybe let the air out only when riding.

Even if you have metal valve stems, now that I have a TPMS, I consider that item as required safety equipment.  Whether internal or external (valve cap sensors), they can report tire temperatures and pressures.  You can set the alarm limits as you see fit.  I have the valve cap sensors; I also have T-valve stems, so I can add air without removing the sensor-cap.  You want an indicator at the handlebars which you can read in sunlight, with an audio alarm that you can hear when riding.  Make sure the sensors have batteries that you can replace; don't buy the throw-away sensors.  It's great to inflate tires while watching the air pressure increase at the TPMS display.

I mean, who routinely checks their tire pressures when riding on the freeway, and before leaving any driveway?  TPMS riders.