more surprises coming from my 86

[Hemi Bob]

I've been slowly working on the 86 fj 1200 that I first bought on July 1st as a parts bike. $200.
I bought it because I needed the cylinder as mine has a suspected valve seat problem or bent exhaust valve. 0.88 valve lash

The more I got into this 86 X race bike the more interesting things started to become.
The guy I bought it from owned it for 4 years when he broke the drive chain pulling away from a stop light.
He was not the owner when the bike was built to race with so he said he does not remember anything about the motor other than its not stock and it was fast.
   
The last time the bike was licensed was 2006. The tank of gas still in it has kept the rust away.
I was going to pull the motor to take the head off for my 85 but some of the parts I'm finding have me thinking maybe it will run.
There is no hole in the case from the chain.

The PO told me when the chain broke it cracked the case and the oil leaked out so he parked it. He never had anyone else look at it.
The sprocket cover was destroyed the shifter shaft bent and the oil seal was deformed so oil leaked out.
My latest find when taking the clutch and basket out to get to access to the shifter shaft that had to be cut off inside the case as the bend would not allow the  shaft to be pulled out through the case the way it went in. 
The stock pressure plate has been modified to accept  6 coil springs instead of the single stock spring.  Also 8 steel plates and 9 friction discs.
The first friction disc is a modified wide disc to fit the pressure plate so no narrow friction disc in the stack. That makes 17 plates and fibers in the stack.       Isn't 15 stock?
I know back in the 80'S it was common for shops to add an extra steel to the middle of the stack to stop a clutch from slipping.
I didn't think 2 extra plates would fit Or I'm I missing something ?

There was also a mouse or two living in the air box and header collector.  He never got pasted the air filter or into the mikuni 38 flat sides.


Bob

[Motofun]

Don't do it!!!     I bought a CB400F for $100 as a parts bike 15 years ago.  It sat in the barn for 13 years until I decided to sell it as I didn't need it.  It was winter, I was bored, so I decided to see if I could get it to run.  BIG MISTAKE!  Once it was running I couldn't just part it out so $1000 later I now have a fully restored bike that I don't ride.

[Pat Conlon]

Hello Bob....You have an aftermarket racing clutch pack made by Barnett.
On the oem FJ clutch pack there are 6 wide friction plates and 2 narrow plates. Total 8.
The narrow plates are located on the inside and outside of the clutch pack.
I recall in the '80's and '90's Barnett sold a race pack that used thinner fibers so they could add an additional fiber plate to the pack. Great for drag racing, not so good for the street (IMHO)
Years ago I rode a FJ with one of these aftermarket clutch packs and the clutch was like a light switch, on or off, no in between. Impossible to modulate.

Get the bike fixed and try this racing clutch pack out, maybe you will like it?

Personally, I would go back to the oem Yamaha clutch pack.

[giantkiller]

Lots of kool goodies. Not Barnet pplate unless early model. Big oil cooler. Extended swinger. Flatslides. Open exhaust? Internal mods? Woohoo.
You've got a treasure there. I'll give you $100 more for it. Lol!!

[RPM - Robert]

I think Pat was referring to the actually frictions and steels. Barnett will make them thinner so you can fit extra in the pack.

I actually did this with the Hayabusa in the race car, as there are 3 different thickness steels and 2 different thicknesses for the frictions, from Suzuki. I made a clutch pack for the race car adding an extra steel and extra friction while eliminating the narrow friction disc.

[Pat Conlon]

Correct, frictions and steels, thanks Robert.

[Hemi Bob]

Thanks guys for the info.
I have to order some seals and gaskets , I picked up a used shifter shaft for $4.00 of ebay $30 shipping grrr.

My love for an 86 FJ started the year after I bought my 85 brand new.
And I couldn't justify or afford to take the loss on trading in my  85 for an 86.

It appears this 86 was some sort of race bike for a few years.   
And which one of us kids would not want to get it running and have one ride .... Maybe two lol just to see ?

There is a picture of some sort of sensor  installed into the oil pan on the right side of the bike the wire has been cut off.
Also the rear fender has been cut away under the seat apparently to make room for the air tank for the shifter. The tethered dead man switch on the right side fairing  has also been disconnected.

I'm assuming the sticker Leitner & Bush race engines on the extended swing arm has something to do with the current engine. There are signs that the engine has been apart. Looks like some gasket sealant around the case surfaces.

The aluminum rear sprocket has 44 teeth and I have the DID chain and ordered a couple new links.
The motor turns over by hand using the crank nut on the left side.   
                   
I'm not sure best way to attempt to start it.
I will pull the plugs and replace, add new fresh oil, the clutch discs are in a bucket full of fresh oil right now. . I was going to pull the valve cover and have a look and pour oil over the cam lobs and buckets to make sure if it starts its not totally dry in the top end. Would some type of assembly lube be better?                                       I also will put on some new fuel line and the oil filter.
I have tried a fresh charged battery from my 85 to see if the wiring was OK 
No sine of any problems ( yet) the mouse didn't get that far .



Bob

[giantkiller]

Hmm. Wonder if a small nitrous bottle would fit there?

[Hemi Bob]

I like how you think

My wife still thinks its a parts bike 
She has asked as the bike was getting cleaner and shinny
I bet your going to keep it.

If i do keep it lol.  FJ owner.com is going to get the blame 
But first it has  to run

Bob 

[fj1289]

Hmm. Wonder if a small nitrous bottle would fit there?

With as far as the rear tire is back, I'll bet a 2 or 2.5# bottle fits without trying - and a 5 # might fit!

[Hemi Bob]

You guys are going to get me killed ! 

But NOS sure would be fun for the one or two rides . Ya Ya that what Ill tell the wife, Its just a test 

Lets get it up and running first. 

But i would like to know if I should do something to lube the top end before i try to start it.
I must be pretty dry after sitting all these years and it will take time to get oil up to the cams
and valves. especially if it doesn't start right away.
In a car engine you pull the distributor and spin the oil pump to prime it till you have pressure .
I was going to take the valve cover off to look at the cams for part numbers stock vs after market ?
Also pour oil on the lobes.


Bob 

[RPM - Robert]

Undo the two right side valve cover bolts, valve hike holding your fingers over them. Unhook the spark plug wires, crank until there is oil coming from the two valve cover bolt holes. Let sit for 5 minutes, repeat once, or twice. Then the head is primed and ready to rock.

[Hemi Bob]

Thanks Robert,
Ill try that,
I have been Syringing some 10w40 Castrol motorcycle oil in through the spark holes
and turning it over by hand with the plug removed. 

I have not tried using the starter to turn it over,  as the clutch and basket is still out and soaking in a bucket  of engine  oil
I have to change out the slave cylinder  looks like  chain breaking took out a piece of it , or at least the seal .

Bob

[ribbert]

But i would like to know if I should do something to lube the top end before i try to start it.
I must be pretty dry after sitting all these years and it will take time to get oil up to the cams
and valves. especially if it doesn't start right away.

Bob 

Bob, this is not a fresh build, the oil system remains primed no matter how long it sits. Folks don't realise just how quickly oil makes it's way to the head when cranked or started. A bit down the cylinders if you want, plugs back it and start it. In all likelihood it will take a few cranks by which time it will have oil everywhere anyway. Even if it fires immediately, that's fine.

The only things I check are that the throttle is closed and that it returns to idle snappily when let go, and establish that the engine turns freely.
You do a lot more harm to an engine running it without oil pressure for a few seconds every time you fit a new oil filter!

If the bike was laid up because the chain broke, it was being ridden when that happened, in which case it would be more surprising if it didn't start and run. Not much deteriorates on an engine over time, not even 15 years (assuming it's reasonably well stored).

Noel

[Motofun]

When doing the "snap back" check on the throttle, make sure to do it with bars at both extreme left and right.  If the throttle cables aren't routed properly they can bind up at the wrong time.....It also is a good check on lube.