Colin's FJ1200

[ribbert]

Steve - if you will make sure that bleeder line travels up from the bleeder valve, the column of fluid will act like a one-man bleeder: air bubbles will travel up and out, and bubble free fluid will flow back in

Chris, I asked my mechanic about this, he said this works better in theory than in practice. Certainly the big bubbles shoot straight up but the viscosity of the fluid makes the smaller ones very slow to rise, in fact they are taught in trade school that  if you drop a bottle of brake fluid, let it stand 24 hrs before using it.

Noel

[fj1289]

Steve - if you will make sure that bleeder line travels up from the bleeder valve, the column of fluid will act like a one-man bleeder: air bubbles will travel up and out, and bubble free fluid will flow back in

Chris, I asked my mechanic about this, he said this works better in theory than in practice. Certainly the big bubbles shoot straight up but the viscosity of the fluid makes the smaller ones very slow to rise, in fact they are taught in trade school that  if you drop a bottle of brake fluid, let it stand 24 hrs before using it.

Noel

Noel - very true - but you really need to let the system rest to get fully rid of those don't you?  Is this a circle back to the whole tie off the lever and let is stand over night technique?!  Lol

[ribbert]

Noel - very true - but you really need to let the system rest to get fully rid of those don't you?  Is this a circle back to the whole tie off the lever and let is stand over night technique?!  Lol

....nooooooo

[ribbert]

Noel ..... Is this a circle back to the whole tie off the lever and let is stand over night technique?!  Lol

....nooooooo

As it turns out, I was doing this very job last night after fitting a stainless steel sleeve to the slave cylinder. I used a variation on the technique, I skipped the tying the lever to the bar bit and just applied the over night component. Whaddayer know, a few pumps this morning and the clutch was perfect. 

It's interesting to note that at 270k that was the original slave having had only one seal replacement in it's life and it wasn't currently leaking. I also removed the calipers to empty them and fill with fresh fluid, a long overdue maintenance item and replace the pads F & R (after bleeding). While I was there I scraped the crystallized brake fluid and corrosion from the top edge of the reservoir to clean up the sealing surface and washed and re-greased the speedo drive.
I have already done the fork seals and have chain, sprockets and wheel bearings to fit also. None of these items are un serviceable but they do have enormous mileages on them and I have some trips coming up.

I have been waiting for years and years for my HID headlight to die, just like everyone else's seem to do quickly, so I can go back to the more reliable LED and it just won't die. They are illegal here and I now require a Roadworthiness Certificate to convert the rego to historic vehicle registration so it has forced my hand, unfortunately, removing the fairing is no longer a simple task on my bike (which is why I haven't done it before now)

For all this work, the bike won't feel any different but will improve it's reliability.

If you leave out dot 5, an oil discussion I don't believe we've ever had is what's your fluid of choice dot 3, dot 4 or dot 5.1? ( I use dot 3 )

Noel

[fj1289]

Oh boy - I'm sure my brake fluid choice differs from yours - but my focus is different. 

For street riding - probably DOT 3 for lower moisture absorption and better suited for "normal" maintenance intervals.   

BUT, my focus has been rather obsessive for the last few years on the paved land speed events.   For that I'll take the higher performing DOT 4 and change it out from a fresh bottle when prepping for a big event.  Better in this case for the crazy sustained heavy braking (when you manage to put a good high speed run together...)

As with everything "better" there are always compromises!

[FJ1200W]

Oh boy - I'm sure my brake fluid choice differs from yours - but my focus is different. 

For street riding - probably DOT 3 for lower moisture absorption and better suited for "normal" maintenance intervals.   

BUT, my focus has been rather obsessive for the last few years on the paved land speed events.   For that I'll take the higher performing DOT 4 and change it out from a fresh bottle when prepping for a big event.  Better in this case for the crazy sustained heavy braking (when you manage to put a good high speed run together...)

As with everything "better" there are always compromises!

Good points.

I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used. 

The owners has a couple of Harley's and is building an old school straight axle big block Ford Falcon.

Anyway, I'm hoping to have time Saturday to install the carbs, fuel pump, etc. I also want to check the valves and replace the plugs, all the normal stuff. 

Always enjoy your posts, thanks!

[ribbert]

I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used. 

Steve, is that bike running any of the original rubber hoses?

Noel

[ribbert]

For street riding - probably DOT 3 for lower moisture absorption and better suited for "normal" maintenance intervals.   

BUT, my focus has been rather obsessive for the last few years on the paved land speed events.   For that I'll take the higher performing DOT 4 and change it out from a fresh bottle when prepping for a big event.  Better in this case for the crazy sustained heavy braking (when you manage to put a good high speed run together...)

As with everything "better" there are always compromises!

 

[FJ1200W]

I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used. 

Steve, is that bike running any of the original rubber hoses?

Noel

Yes, they are all original.

We're not worried about it in the least.

[FJ1200W]

I think I've decided on the fuel pump and controller placement.

The pump instructions suggest a 45 degree placement, and the location shown in the picture should be fine. I'll fab up a mount and call it good.

I believe the petcock is 10.5mm, hopefully 1/2" hose will fit and a on/off valve added. Next a fuel filter and another bit of hose to a 90 degree fitting on the inlet of the pump. I'm going to have to use some adapters for the variations in hose ID. Fun fun.

From the pump, another 90 degree fitting and 1/4" hose to the late model carbs. 

The controller, I'm leaning toward attaching it to the battery box with Velcro Extreme.

[ribbert]

I will probably flush it again, and may go to DOT 4. I had that quart of DOT 3 and it needed to be used. 

Steve, is that bike running any of the original rubber hoses?

Noel

Yes, they are all original.

We're not worried about it in the least.

I agree, from a safety perspective I'm not that fussed about them either (although the brakes do work much better with braided lines)

I was going to post about using dot 4 with older hoses but thought better of it.

Carry on.

Noel

[FJ1200W]

Floats set, yes I torque the screws...

Diaphragms as new, all looks good.

Carbs red eye

[FJ1200W]

Replaced those pesky leaky valve cover bolt grommets -

[FJ1200W]

Adjusted the valves, exhausts needed attention.
Oiled up everything before buttoning it up. I had forgotten what a treat it is installing that valve cover gasket.
I'm a little concerned over the air filter running on the frame on one side, will probably put a "guard" of sorts in place.
Pulser cover gasket was toast, ordered one up from RPM. At least this one was not coated with silicone gasket maker.....
Now to install the fuel pump and controller -
Question: The ignition "boost" is disconnected, any reason to connect it?

[Pat Conlon]

Question: The ignition "boost" is disconnected, any reason to connect it?

If the diaphragm passes the suck test, go ahead and hook it up...it sure will keep your plugs clean.