Getting head loose on fj1100

[azuredesign]

Any thoughts as to why I can't get this head to come loose? I removed the 12 stud caps, and the small bolts x2 front and rear per the manual...am I missing something? As well it feels like the rear chain guide is captured on the bottom side of the head, while the front one was removed from above...does that sound right?...not easy to get good purchase with the engine in the frame...thanks for any thoughts!

[Old Rider]

There is a bolt in front holding the oil-cooler bracket that has to be unscrewed and the rear camchain slider is bolted from the top of case under the intake manifoils

[azuredesign]

Thanks very much...I will go and see if this helps now! All best, Ben

[azuredesign]

There is a bolt in front holding the oil-cooler bracket that has to be unscrewed and the rear camchain slider is bolted from the top of case under the intake manifoils

Thanks It looks to me as if that bracket is attached to a bolt holding the jugs to the bottom end,  but thanks for thinking about it. I can get a bit of movement from the two pry points under #2 and 3 inlets, but I am hoping that what's needed is the patience to cope with almost 40 years of being togerher.

[Paul.1478]

I think he is correct. you have to remove 2 i think 10mm bolts. Look at this parts blowup. Part number 10 is the stud. Even after i removed them it was still not easy to get the head to come up with I did the one on by bike.
https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fj1200-1990-l-usa_model9582/partslist/A-05.html#.YLYqvuhKjDc

Good luck

[Old Rider]

There is a bolt in front holding the oil-cooler bracket that has to be unscrewed and the rear camchain slider is bolted from the top of case under the intake manifoils

Thanks It looks to me as if that bracket is attached to a bolt holding the jugs to the bottom end,  but thanks for thinking about it. I can get a bit of movement from the two pry points under #2 and 3 inlets, but I am hoping that what's needed is the patience to cope with almost 40 years of being togerher.

Hi sorry i was thinking you did not get the cylinderbank off .I had problems with that because of the nut/bolt at the underside of bracket that is a little invisible .
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18143.15
If you want to get the rear camslider out you must remove the bolt on top of enginecase see pic.
I used a rubbermallet and gently hammered to get the head off.

[azuredesign]

I think he is correct. you have to remove 2 i think 10mm bolts. Look at this parts blowup. Part number 10 is the stud. Even after i removed them it was still not easy to get the head to come up with I did the one on by bike.
https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fj1200-1990-l-usa_model9582/partslist/A-05.html#.YLYqvuhKjDc

Good luck

Thanks Paul, I do have the 2 small front and rear studs unbolted...mine does seem to be a bit of a bear! Thanks for your thoughts and well wishes!
Ben

[azuredesign]

There is a bolt in front holding the oil-cooler bracket that has to be unscrewed and the rear camchain slider is bolted from the top of case under the intake manifoils

Thanks It looks to me as if that bracket is attached to a bolt holding the jugs to the bottom end,  but thanks for thinking about it. I can get a bit of movement from the two pry points under #2 and 3 inlets, but I am hoping that what's needed is the patience to cope with almost 40 years of being togerher.

Hi sorry i was thinking you did not get the cylinderbank off .I had problems with that because of the nut/bolt at the underside of bracket that is a little invisible .
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18143.15
If you want to get the rear camslider out you must remove the bolt on top of enginecase see pic.
I used a rubbermallet and gently hammered to get the head off.

I wonder if I should try to get that rear guide out before the head will lift...I will try that, and a few other things too! Thanks!!

[azuredesign]

Getting this head off was a bear...part of the problem is that trying to do so in the frame offers limited room and angulation to loosen the exhaust side adequately on an almost 40 year old build...I figured after expending a fair amount of grease from both elbows, that the locator pins must be galled on the right side as I could not get any movement between head and cylinder casting there...in frustration, I called my friends Mike and Anders, life long wrenches both, for their sage advise. Both were supportive and offered valuable advise, however it was Anders who came up with the idea that did the trick, and I would like to share it here for the possibility that it might help others of us. Bravo to those who already know this one....

The Rope Trick

Get 3 feet of rope, perhaps nylon or poly pro is best, as it doesn't fray easily. These most frequently come in only 1/4 or 3/8" diameter, no 5/16" so 1/4" is the one to get...insert in the spark plug hole, on multicylinders starting perhaps on the inside cylinder on a stubborn side. With a wrench on the crankshaft end nut, move that cylinder's piston down to allow stuffing as much rope into the cylinder as one can, then turn the crank nut, in the direction that will not loosen the nut, to force the Piston to compress the rope as it goes to TDC...don't force this, although it takes some oomph...take the rope out and do the same in the other cylinders, gradually increasing the force necessary to push the piston through TDC...eventually the head should release, as it did for me.

Glad this is over with...ready for the next road block!

[fj1289]

Awesome idea!