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WHAT WENT WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Am i missing something or what?

Started by raskco, May 18, 2010, 09:09:38 AM

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raskco

It was the line..  I put a post up saying that the line wasn't kinked  when you guys told me 2 check that.... i tried it and looked ok.   But the air box was not on when i was checking it..//    today i put the air  box back on and looked at the line again and it was pressing up against the air box when i was putting the tank on causing it to kink at the other end..  So i changed it so it does not kink any more.. Aging that you guys for telling me about that..

But now the bike makes a poping sound . went down the road and had 2 came back home.. the new Jets are the same size as the old ones. I put new pilot screws in, and seals, well the whole carb kit.  synk the carbs..  read i think 21 on all cyl. 21 or 22.   

I also put brand new floats.. 23.5mm is what i set them at..    Im done with it tonight,,  ill look at it tomorow.

racerman_27410

check that ground cable from the battery... once it starts building resistance all kinds of bad electrical things can happen including boiling the battery.... if that ground is bad i have seen 20 volts pumping thru the system .


KOokaloo!

Frank

raskco

Ok..  i will do that..  Should I put dio electric grease on the end???  I put it for my wires and stuff.. never put it on bat. cables before..  seems like a good ideal..   I priced out a bat..  79$ and  the one on ebay is like 36, same number but looks no name brand. it's gel filled..  I might get that one..

Ok another update..

I still had a little problem with the line..  When the bike  hot it bent and kinked the line again!!..  I tried 20 things..  So now I ran a steel line in a circle over the carb and by the tank..  Runs GREAT. Still a little poping out of the one cyl  seems like a little back fire or something..  But it runs great. Again with out you guys I would of never guessed it.  This week i am putting my filters on and i will have a ton of room for the lines 2 go where ever. But for now it is good.

So I like the bike again..

I plan on installing my filters this week, new jets, clean all connections, bat.

I WILL NEVER PULL MY TANK OFF AGAIN!!!!!!!    thanks again everyone for the help/....

andyb


Sure ya will :P  Actually I like the idea of using hard lines to repair the routing problems, that's pretty quick thinking.  Trying to figure out if that'd be worth applying to my own!

If it conducts electricity and you don't want it to rust, dielectric grease isn't a bad idea on most connections, normally used on plug wires and battery terminals.  If you can cover the connections, do so, the grease gets all over everything and picks up grit and ickiness.



Quote
I WILL NEVER PULL MY TANK OFF AGAIN!!!!!!!


I'd just like to take this moment to be the first to say in advance:

I told you so.

raskco

why oh why didn't I scan this forum before I pulled the tank off....  :crazy:

ok..  have one more slight problem..  first of all  the poping, backfiring thing went away..  |Yes by itself..  but,

at full throttle going through the gears my buddy said all kinds of smoke poors out..  He said some black, blue, brown,,  (ill have my other buddy look 2 see what colour it is for sure)
My needles are or were set at 3 1/4 turns out before i rebuilt the carbs..  I thought that was 2 much so i set them at 2 3/4   and bike is all stock but the slip ons. filter is clean.  the book   says out 2 turns,,  Im scared 2 pull the tanhk off again 2 check the plugs, but should I set them at 2  turns???  or do u think it is a jetting problem..?? 

I know if its blue smoke its bad,,  i think its black..  \my  89 was  the same.. 


and   one other thing..  why does it say top speed is 140mph or 226 kmh?? 255 last night and my rev limit went on,,  my 89 was  faster, but the BOOK only says 140!!!!! 

Not that i drive it hard , and in a safe way  :gamer:  i did my first tank wheelie with it..  ill post a vid on you tube this weekend.. its fun 2 be able 2 do things i was doing on my r1...  witha cruiser>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  well according 2 the insurance companies  it's a cruiser... :blush:

andyb

The speedometer isn't hugely accurate up to those speeds.  On the right gearing, you should be able to swing it well past the 165 mark under good conditions.

Kopfjaeger

i got work to do then. at the moment i get about 225 k/hr but it takes a lot to get there ( seems to anyways) while we are in engine land, my leak down test when i had compression tests done is thus .... it may help or hinder...... 75% no 1 80% no 2 85% no 3 75% no 4. i thinking new rings soon .... but might get all that done when i get starter clutch and primary chain done.
   and no one like s a told you so andy  :blum2: :yes:

raskco

do  u mean 75% loss on the leak down test?????  or 25% loss..  i did mine i have 10% loss..  so like new..

Kopfjaeger

25% loss.  :good2: makes sense why she s soft. t'aint smoking yet and i aint getting to em any time soon. :sorry:

Flying Scotsman

Can someone explain what the rev limiter does to me.Is it on all gears and when does it kick in ?
1984 FJ1100
1985 FJ1100
1990 FJ1200
1999 GP1200 (165 + hp)

Harvy

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on November 07, 2010, 07:00:16 PM
Can someone explain what the rev limiter does to me.Is it on all gears and when does it kick in ?

Depends on what you mean by rev limiter.

If you are talking about the Japanese domestic FJs, they have a circuit on the back of the speedo that prevents the bike from exceeding ~180Kph.

I true rev limiter would prevent the engine from turning more than a set RPM in any gear (I am guessing, as there is no switch in the gear selection area apart from the neutral switch) and would be set in the ignition brain box.

Harvy

FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

Harvy

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on November 07, 2010, 07:00:16 PM
Can someone explain what the rev limiter does to me.Is it on all gears and when does it kick in ?

Ahha....... I read the rest of the thread.....seems you are talking about the Dyna2000 rev limiter.

My understanding is that it cuts the spark at the designated rpm.....in any gear, and is selectable in 500rpm increments from 8500 to 16000 rpm.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

Flying Scotsman

I was asking about the over rev limiter built into the gauges.(stock ignition)

36Y-8359J-00-00
1984 FJ1100
1985 FJ1100
1990 FJ1200
1999 GP1200 (165 + hp)

Harvy

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on November 07, 2010, 10:27:41 PM
I was asking about the over rev limiter built into the gauges.(stock ignition)

36Y-8359J-00-00

Ahha......seems like its only on FJ1100, so I will shut-up...... don't know anything about these....... maybe Pat or someone else with an '84/'85 can help with this one.

Harvy
FJZ1 1200 - It'll do me just fine.
Timing has much to do with the success of a rain dance.

andyb

Obsoleted part it appears.

Found bits about it, supposedly it cuts spark at 115mph?

QuoteOne I was just thinking of is the over rev limiter in the insterment
cluster, if it is bad it would make the yellow& blue trace wire a
dead short and shut down the system.

Also found someone saying that it shuts the party down at 10300 revs, no matter the gear. (Also 10.2k and 10.5k from others... real rpm is not what the tach says, so there's some contention there.  Near an indicated 11krpm supposedly.)  Seems like it should be easy enough to bypass if you're hitting it and having issues, but that's very high revs for the FJ motor, turning it that high will leave your crankshaft in more pieces than you started with it in (it's not ideally supported for high revs).