Slow Corning < Fast Cornering

[fj1289]

Is this the same FJ you bought that had been crashed and had broken engine cases?

[fj1289]

It sounds like "modifications" have already occurred to the frame:

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19453.msg198293#msg198293

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=19135.msg194272#msg194272

I have a feeling it was "left to rot for 20 years" for a reason - like it didn't handle right after being "laid down in the grass at 120".  The frame had to get tweaked in order to crack the cases by the rear mounts. 

This thing need to be checked out very precisely and accurately - frame, swingarm, forks, etc.  Also, how do you lay a bike down in the grass at 120?  There had to be some kind of transition INTO the grass...

[chiz]

I don't know what it was Tires wheels forks shock or what but the handling on my FJ was scary awefull when I first rode compared to my previous bike an ST1100 which was brilliant. I changed all the for mentioned items and it was transformed. Chiz

[ajacstern]

Hi all,

Sorry for the late reply, life got busy and I forgot to check the forum. In terms of sag, I remember trying to set it last season and being unable to get the sag in the range I wanted with the stock adjustment. Far too much dynamic sag even on full preload, I set it max preload and left it but I can't remember what the actually dynamic sag is. I should probably recheck, I am pretty light and definitely on the wrong spring rate (stock) so maybe the dynamic sag is actually too high, I believe I was aiming for 30mm at the time.

Yes this is the same FJ as was crashed and I restored. I checked over the frame very carefully when I found the engine crack and saw/felt no obvious bends or tweaks. Impossible to be sure it is perfect without known good measurements but I saw nothing obvious. It tracks perfectly straight with no hands when on a totally flat surface and it follows even the slightest bank in the road (again with no hands). I feel no difference turning left or right either. I checked the swingarm when doing the rear suspension and it was good as well. It was the PO's son who told me how it was crashed so he very well could have been embellishing the story or been told and embellished story, he would have been a kid when it happened. I don't think the crash is why it was parked though. I believe the damage from the crash was very minimal, cracked plastics (1 crack in main fairing and lower fairing is in two), rash on the exhaust and bar ends, seat release lever snapped off (not sure if related), large hole in clutch cover. I think the engine was struck in the clutch cover and that is what caused the crack by the engine mount, not the frame. Forks were definitely original (inspection sticker) and were perfectly straight.

Without any obvious issues besides maybe a slightly worn rear tire (about 2k miles) and a bit too high sag, I think it is probably just functioning normally for such a heavy bike. That leaves my options as going to the gym more often or modifying the bikes geometry. Does anyone know the best way to raise the rear end on the '87 models (probably not going to buy a $1k Penske)?

[Pat Conlon]

....Does anyone know the best way to raise the rear end on the '87 models (probably not going to buy a $1k Penske)?

Only 3 options that I know of....
1) Buy a height adjustable shock (don't buy new, buy used)
2) Find a longer shock off a different model bike that will fit. Check the suspension files.
3) Get a relay arm from a '89/90 FJ and convert your linkage over to the 89/90 dog bone style which allows you to adjust the rear height by the length of the dog bones. Even with this option, you still need a good shock.

Your oem shock sucks, throw it away.

Cheers