losing my bearings

[andyoutandabout]

Peeps, a quick comparison if you please.
putting my rear wheel back on after getting some lovely new shoes fitted.
Started to re-grease axles and spacers, but came to the bearings, which are sealed, when I think what used to happen doesn't happen anymore.
I'm pretty sure I would stick a rubber gloved finger in the hole and this would provide enough grip to turn the inner bearing surface.
This occasion, it didn't turn. there's no sideways slack and using a taped up extension bar I got the inner ring to move but both sides aren't what you would call smooth.
sprayed it with WD silicon spray, but I guess, since they are sealed, it doesn't get in there.
this didn't seem to make much difference anyway.
so I guess my real question is -
What is the life span of rear wheel bearings?
I figure these have about 100,000 miles on them.
Andy

[T Legg]

I would say about 90,000 on yours. They definitely should roll easily and smoothly. I replaced a set on my black 84' at 70,000 because they rolled roughly.

[ribbert]

Peeps, a quick comparison if you please.
putting my rear wheel back on after getting some lovely new shoes fitted.
Started to re-grease axles and spacers, but came to the bearings, which are sealed, when I think what used to happen doesn't happen anymore.
I'm pretty sure I would stick a rubber gloved finger in the hole and this would provide enough grip to turn the inner bearing surface.
This occasion, it didn't turn. there's no sideways slack and using a taped up extension bar I got the inner ring to move but both sides aren't what you would call smooth.
sprayed it with WD silicon spray, but I guess, since they are sealed, it doesn't get in there.
this didn't seem to make much difference anyway.
so I guess my real question is -
What is the life span of rear wheel bearings?
I figure these have about 100,000 miles on them.
Andy

Chuck 'em!

Wheel bearings are shot long before you can feel the roughness turning them by hand (when there's no load on them).
Don't forget to replace the carrier bearing while you're at it and only use brand name bearings, it doesn't matter whose brand, just as long as it's known, it won't cost you any more.
Don't pick the seal out and add more grease to the replacements, the manufacturers have already figured that out for you.

Local bearing services have those sizes and they cost not much more than a cup of coffee per item.

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

Yes, on new bearings....don't forget you have 3 in the back...include the sprocket hub.

Might as well also do the front.

[andyoutandabout]

Yeses all round then for renewal.
I found a video of how to pop off the seal and repack, which I managed easily enough.
Still far from smooth though.
They looked clean enough, no rust, still a bit of original grease, so I gather they are just out of tolerance.
At least they'll get me to the RPM shop.
One doesn't mess with seals and bearings; there's a knack that one doesn't have when it comes to seating them right (ref, my fork seal attempts)

[Mark Olson]

Hey Andy, change your bearings and you will go faster.

Also , how is your chain and sprockets?
It's spring so go thru the fluids as well.
like clutch and the brakes.

[FJmonkey]

How is that chain slider holding up?

[andyoutandabout]

Tires on, wheels back in.
Ready to bug up helmet Mark.
Soon as rain moves on.
Note, RPM is temporarily out of bearings front and rear, so that'll have to wait.
As for the chain slider Monkey, I guess it's good, I didn't really look at it.
Note, check chain slider tomorrow

[Mark Olson]

Alright Andy,

sounds like you are getting ready for action. 

Now i gotta few things to do myself.