FJ2400 - Bonneville Land Speed Racer

[freakhousecustoms]

Fran, I just watched your handlebar vid....at record speed, 180 mph, I think you will want to be laying down, tucked nice and low on your bike.

Check out Episode 3...  where I explain:



Now, that said, this is my buddy Jason on his blown GSXR-750 - no fairings, stock ride height.  He's already gone faster than what I'm looking for on that bike.

Check out Scooter Shoots:

https://www.scootershoots.com/BUBMotorcycleSpeedTrials/2019-Bonneville-Motorcycle-Speed-Trials/i-zjkkw5f/A

While, there are many, many (MANY) different approaches to setting up your land speed racer - which is what I love about the sport - the frame design I've got planned out & my seating/riding position should get me where I need to be.  I am running a class where Aero is not allowed, so I will just be making do with what I can get by with.

I mean, (check that first picture I posted back on Page 1) Mr. Elrod is running about 60 feet of ground clearance AND the stock headlight (!?!) on his record-setting bike.  

[fj1289]

Yeah - I used to do that too - in my 40's.  Then again - had to lift two of them into the back of my truck a few weeks ago. 

It is a chunk - but they are very solid pieces!  Seems like Yamaha went heavy where they needed to!  And waited for the 5 valves to try to save some weight!

[freakhousecustoms]

Actually, compared to the GS1100E, the FJ1200 engines are lightweight.
I cannot lift the GS engine unaided.  I'd say an FJ is about the same weight as the GS1000.

Even if I'm looking at 500lbs with 2 engines, I still think I can get the bike built under 700lbs.

[freakhousecustoms]

So, I figured I should figure out how to STOP the bike, before I attempt to ride it.

Click pic below for video:

[freakhousecustoms]

Just doing some comparisons from the FJ to my Drag Bike.

Drag Bike has more rake.  While I usually go super radical with the rake, on The Juggernaut I won't even have as much as the Drag Bike.


The engines already sit so low, I actually won't be sitting too much further back from the bars


She's maybe a foot longer and I can get some more back once I switch to my own frame.

[fj1289]

For comparison, my race bike wheelbase is out to 67" now.   That is with the lowered forks in 25mm offset triple clamps and the 0-6" extended FZ1 swing arm.  It was 64 1/2" which was M-PS legal with the "small" 5# nitrous bottle.  I think with some mods to the swing arm I can get it back to 64 1/2" and keep the big bottle.  Won't worry about that for this season.  Plus, if I ever do get back to the salt, most of the A and A-PS records are actually a bit slower than the M and M-PS records in the 1350 and 1650 engine classes. 

The FSM lists the stock wheelbase at 58.7". 

Maybe a few extra inches of wheelbase will let you get "behind" the second engine a bit?  Might really lower your frontal area. 

[freakhousecustoms]

Plus, if I ever do get back to the salt, most of the A and A-PS records are actually a bit slower than the M and M-PS records in the 1350 and 1650 engine classes. 

IF?!?  You're coming this year, right? LOL!!!
I'll introduce you to all the Wrong people! 


Your statement about the A (Special Construction) vs. M (Modified) is very true. I, also, thought that "A" would be the Pinnacle of Speed, but what I've found is that the "Big Boy Bikes":  Busa's and ZX14's are so well built, not many people will take the chance to build their own frames, knowing a proven high-speed platform is available from the factory.

There are "tricks" to get you into Special Construction if you want to discuss them - but if you want to build a True "A" bike, you already know a guy who can build you a frame and has some experience with the FJ platform.

[fj1289]

I'd like to actually try the salt lol.   With poor salt conditions I have met been in a big hurry to try again.   I've still got about 214 things to settle with the mile - somewhere!  This season I've decided to go back with a strong "sprint" focus on the 1/4 and hopefully a 1/2 mile event or two.  I also still need to dip into the nines - hopefully pretty deep into the nines. 

My wheelbase already fits A class.   Will probably lower the bike a bit more and maybe cut the subframe rails to lower the seat base enough to be the second criteria for A class. 

It seems most everyone brings their own quirks to land speed racing - mine is I still want it recognizable as an FJ

[freakhousecustoms]

And now, quite literally the moment no one has been waiting for.
The analytics say that no one is even watching the videos any more.  But, undaunted, I plod forward.

At the very, very least, click to see if I crash or not.

Click Pic for Video:

[fj1289]

I'm betting you will get a lot more interaction from this group as you get into the hard core fabrication - jogging and fabricating the frame you will be running, the methods of joining the two engines (throttle cables, clutches, chain output, etc), drive train and what not.   

I'd characterize most of the people on this site - at least the most active ones - as "practicalists".   We each may have a different take on what we want or want to achieve, but most of the approaches are very pragmatic.  Your approach to the whole process lends a different perspective. 

[freakhousecustoms]

Before I started, I decided that I'd be making these videos for me - a set of digital memories for when my actual memories start to fade.
No one (not just here, but every where I post) is even clicking to find out if I'm even doing any "hard core fabrication".  But, again, if I keep my audience of 10, I will enthusiastically continue to record my memories. 



Ok - so, onto an actual FJ question.. and if I should ask this in a different section of this forum, just let me know:

I'm putting my RPM order together for the front springs:


Front Fork Spring 1.00kg/mm

Is that the heaviest spring I can get? 1.00kg?  With all the test rides I've done so far, I can confirm she's a heavy b!tch.
I'm guessing I'm going to need as strong a spring as I can get.  If the 1kg springs are it, I can make them work.


Once I get the springs, is the FJ 41mm Fork Seal & Wiper Kit all I'm going to need?
I read the "Cartridge Emulator Installation - compressed pics" Word Doc and I have all those tools listed and I've done a couple fork seal replacements on other makes/models, just want to make sure I'm buying all the things I need at the same time.

Thanks in advance!


-Fran

[RPM - Robert]

Fran, we can get higher rate springs, but since I'm home with the new baby I am not sure how high they go.

Secondly, reach out to my dad via email as I know he offered to assist in your build and attempt to break some records and I would think the building of the forks would be something he would be open too.

BTW, we can also get you a longer clutch line so you gave have the clutch master cylinder on the handle bars where it belongs so you can control the bike better.

randy@rpmracingca.com

[freakhousecustoms]

Awesome! THANK YOU!
Congrats on the new baby!


When I build the real bike, the clutch line(s) will reach, but I will have to split them, which will require a bigger clutch cylinder - a "problem" that I've discussed with someone that's already solved that problem.  Another option is to take a more mechanical approach and just build a couple cable-operated 'arms' that will push the clutch pushrods.  Lots of "issues", but lots of solutions as well.  The location of the clutch lever on the Prototype is simply me just being lazy.  Easiest solution to the problem. 


I'll definitely drop your dad an email, but I also don't want to get "crazy" with race/custom parts because this could all turn into a(nother) lesson in futility, like the GloWorm. LOL!  But I totally appreciate all the help! 

[fj1289]

Another answer could be a hybrid cable-hydraulic setup.  There was a bike I read about recently - XJ750 Seca maybe that used a cable from the handlebar to operate a remote master cylinder. 

So, I'm thinking a clutch lever for a cable operated clutch that splits into two cables.  Use the cables to actuate the levers for the hydraulics master cylinders mounted somewhere else on the bike.  Minimal new parts and max reutilization of old parts. 

[freakhousecustoms]

... used a cable from the handlebar to operate a remote master cylinder. 

Ding ding ding!
That's how my dual-engine mentor has his clutch activation set up.