...My FJ mods

[Brook]

.... There are three parts, that still remain FJ. the 1st is the frame, But I did sand and paint black. and cut off all of the brackets and tags, that I could not use with the R1 nose and R6 tail section.

With my Dremel, I cut a small square hole at the bottom of the inside frame, and at the neck. ( for the new wiring harness) 
Then I cut the wiring harness into. About five inch south of the fuse box. replace the old warn-out wires with the next grade-up wire. Using a soldering gun and heated shrink wrap.
With the new harness. I ran it thru a piece of  twenty-seven inch bicycle innertube, (for protection). then I ran the new harness/innertube thru the small hole and up to the neck. then using a male/female connecting block. Connecting to the switches.
So, now, the wiring harness is not visible at all.
I also, made the same square cut on the left inside frame, for the stainless steel clutch line. (I fell that the heat from the motor was cooking the clutch brake fluid)

The 2nd is the gas tank- I used Por-15, to remove the inside rust. (It is a three step process) and I had to use two of the cans of sealant, to cover all of the inside area.

I lower the handle bars, below the upper triple tree. (the handle bars was hitting the tank) using a wire-tie and a hammer, I made a big dent on each side of the tank.

The 3rd is the motor- I sent a really good running 1219cc motor to West Virginia, along with a Hank Scott 1349cc big bore kit. and XJR rods. For a complete rebuild. (and yes, the gears were already cut)
Let me just say this, if I could do it over , I would. I spent a lot of money, on this motor and I am not happy with the performance. I should have sent it to RPM.

...Accel coils and plug wires- This is what I did, I drilled and tap two 1/4 inch holes on top of the shock tower. Then drilled and tap two holes on top of a piece of 1x3 steel box tubing. then bolted the Accel coils on top.

... Penske racing shock-(8983) I made four cuts (with my Dremel) two on top of the frame (right above the right foot peg) and two on the inside frame (for hose clamps). And that is were the nitrogen reservoir is setting.

...Michelin Pilot Power 2ct tires-180/55-17rear   120/70ZR17 front (a hard and soft compound) I cleaned the side-walls of the tires really good. then I used a Sharpie-paint-pen-for-tires to paint the lettering. (three coats)

...Screw on oil filter

...Oil temp sensor- connected to the ..Vapor.. gauges   

...Dyna 2000 ignition- Another regret, I have had to replace twice, with no warning, (while riding) two cylinders would die. payed over $100.00 each time.    A big scam!!

...Soupy's adjustable linkage

...Earl's 10 row oil cooler

...Vance and Hines header (shorten 2 inch's) with out baffles

...1999 YZF1000 swing arm

...After market clutch and brake master cylinders

...R1 frame sliders, with a support bar, between the frame

...Stainless steel clutch and brake lines

...installed a 2003 R1 nose- I took the Fj nose section off and sat the R1 nose on the crossover frame. then made a bracket, to hold it place. The bolt holes for the FJ side panels, matched-up with the bolt holts for the R1. I did have to cut/reshape the side panels, to get the shape that it is in now.

...Installed a 1999 R6 tail section- I used the R6 tail section, instead of a R1.  Because, the R6 is shorter then the R1 .
I found someone that could weld with aluminum> the R6 subframe. Just so happen to be, a late model driver, from the good ole days at Eastbay Raceway.
I gave him the FJ subframe and the R6 subframe. and he created a jig, to match-up the bolt pattern. and I welded a nut on top of the support arms, for heim joints. So, I can raise or lower the tail section.

...With all of the mods,   it went from, right at 585lbs to 500.    I drove a big truck for a living, So, I knew the guys at the weigh stations, on the interstate.
 
 

[T Legg]

No pictures ?

[Sparky84]

No pictures ?

Close your eyes and visualise...


They always look way better that way, (maybe I'm thinking of women) 

[Brook]

... T Legg, I do have a few pic's, on page 2 and 48. in the misc. gallery.

This was my first time trying this, and I had no idea how it was going to turn out, So, no pic's while work on the bike.

[JMR]

 Why are you unhappy with the engine?

[Pat Conlon]

....The 3rd is the motor- I sent a really good running 1219cc motor to West Virginia, along with a Hank Scott 1349cc big bore kit. and XJR rods. For a complete rebuild. (and yes, the gears were already cut)
Let me just say this, if I could do it over , I would. I spent a lot of money, on this motor and I am not happy with the performance. I should have sent it to RPM....

Why are you unhappy with the engine?

Mike, I'll bet you a jelly donut it has to do with the poor seal on the oil rings on the HSR Pro Lite pistons.
At high rpm, close the throttle and the vacuum from those 82mm pistons would pull the oil right past the low tension oil rings. Those short skirt pistons might be fine for wfo racing, but not so good on a street bike.

I shit canned my HSR pistons and went over to the 83mm Ross pistons, problem solved.

[giantkiller]

....The 3rd is the motor- I sent a really good running 1219cc motor to West Virginia, along with a Hank Scott 1349cc big bore kit. and XJR rods. For a complete rebuild. (and yes, the gears were already cut)
Let me just say this, if I could do it over , I would. I spent a lot of money, on this motor and I am not happy with the performance. I should have sent it to RPM....

Why are you unhappy with the engine?

Mike, I'll bet you a jelly donut it has to do with the poor seal on the oil rings on the HSR Pro Lite pistons.
At high rpm, close the throttle and the vacuum from those 82mm pistons would pull the oil right past the low tension oil rings. Those short skirt pistons might be fine for wfo racing, but not so good on a street bike.

I shit canned my HSR pistons and went over to the 83mm Ross pistons, problem solved.

I'm going to have to do that with my Hank Scott 1350.
My motor dynoed @167hp and 117 ftlbs. (Different Dynos can give different numbers on the same motor)But smoked and used oil from the start. Seems worse now.

Fixed it - Monkey

[Pat Conlon]

I hear ya Dan. I was using a quart every 800 miles. Totally unacceptable.
Curt Andrews fixed me up, here's some drop in 82mm pistons for you
http://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/ross-piston-kit-yamaha-fj-1350cc-82mm-99791-82mm-pk/

....only after your current project is completed

[Brook]

... Pat and Giantkiller, Maybe, that is the reason why?

With the 1349 motor, I was told (by the builder) it would produce right around 165hp.

I have not, had it to the track or to a dyno. So, I have no #'s to work with. I am just going by the seat of my pants.
with the 1219 (bigger cams and head work) motor,  It did not matter, what gear I was in, it would pull really hard.
At 60-70mph and turning the throttle, it felt like someone was trying to pull me off the back.

I did not get that feeling with this 1349 motor. Maybe, it's like you said, maybe, it's the big bore kit, it's-self.   

  like the Mikuni 38mm flat slide carbs., not so good, in stop and go traffic.

With all that said, It's not going to make a difference, at this point.   Because, my FJ has been sitting for some time now.

Not because, something wrong with it.     because of my back.

And that is the reason why, I have been spilling out my guts, about my FJ.

[giantkiller]

I hear ya Dan. I was using a quart every 800 miles. Totally unacceptable.
Curt Andrews fixed me up, here's some drop in 82mm pistons for you
http://andrewsmotorsports.mybigcommerce.com/ross-piston-kit-yamaha-fj-1350cc-82mm-99791-82mm-pk/

....only after your current project is completed

Thanks for the link Pat.