Bryan's 1989 FJ1200 rebirth in Poplar Grove, IL

[ribbert]

Best way I've found for bleeding brakes (or any hydraulic system).  One of those "why didn't I think of that?!"

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18653.msg188783#msg188783

I read that link. I'm not brave enough to comment on it, but it's worth adding some further info (that applies to any method) in the interest of a good job.

Don't shake the bottle. You might laugh at that, but people do, if only from habit.

If you drop the bottle on the ground, let it stand for 24 hours before using it.

Brake fluid, once opened has a shelf life of about 12mths, unused fluid does not need to be discarded at the time, as he suggested. There is no advantage to continue bleeding once the air is out just to use up the fluid.

He recommends Speed Bleeder sealant, so he's aware of them, why not just use Speed Bleeders?

Noel

[T Legg]

I agree that over here it is dangerous to have a bike that isn't fast enough to get out of the way of traffic if needed. My youngest son rode dirt bikes as a teenager. When he turned 18 he bought a v-65 magna for his first Street bike. He did take a motorcycle training course.He started out riding it very cautiously and worked on developing his riding skills. He had great respect torwards other drivers on the road and realized that his safety was completely his responsibility alone,that he couldn't expect cars to watch out for him.He is now almost thirty two and an excellent thoughtful rider.

[Waiex191]

My son was scheduled to take the MSF course back in May.  It's been cancelled twice now. He is scheduled to take it 15 July, if it doesn't cancel. Unfortunately not having that class cost him $50 more for insurance. 

After we got back from our morning ride, we swapped bikes and did one more quick lap. The V30 is no FJ1200 but it does sing at 11,000 RPM!  I can't stand the cruiser seating and controls positions though.

[FJ1200W]

Dean,
Many people here get a big bike as their first bike.......

1978 I had my 1st street bike.

Up until then, I'd had a tiller powered minibike.

Also briefly ridden MiniTrails, CT70's.

A Steen (Hodaka based) 100 was my 1st experience with a clutch.

So, for my 1st street bike, no classes, no training, we found, for $500.00, a 1972 Kawasaki 500cc three cylinder two stroke triple.

I did wreck it in 1979, in the high school parking lot, while drag racing a RD350. I was losing and kept on the gas. Another kid was riding wheelies between the parked cars and came out in front of me, at speed. Broke his bike in half. I fixed mine best I could, kept on riding. We lived about 15 miles from school and I'd jump on the interstate and in the colder days, tailgate semi's to stay warm. Not really sure how I survived.

That model had points, three sets. It took a few tries, but eventually I learned you could buy a complete, assembled breaker plate assembly for less than the price of three sets of points.

Good times

[Waiex191]

My brakes and fuel pump came today. We put this same pump in my kid's Magna.

[Millietant]

Yes, things are a lot different here.....population density 10 times greater than the USA (and further muliples denser than Aus and Canada).......training is a lot more necessary to reduce the risk of "early rider mortality".

As soon as our youngest had completed his test on his 16th Birthday, I removed the restrictors, changed the ignition, carburettor and sprockets on his "moped", so that it could get past 60 mph on a hill and at least keep up with single carriageway traffic.

Our US family really get stressed by the traffic density, vehicle speed, and narrow lanes over here and also by our lack of "Stop" locations at junctions etc (we generally have "Give Way", without the need to actually stop). When my brother in law, at 21, decided to get a bike (a CBR 600) in 1993, my father-in-law sent him across to us in the UK so that he could go through training at a motorcycle riding school some friends of ours ran. He also came out riding with us on our favourite roads on my wife's VF750. To be brutally honest, despite having completed a course at home in NJ and having taken his motorcycle "test", he couldn't even pass the test to be allowed to ride a moped here when he had his first session at the riding school. 3 weeks later, he went home a much better, safer, rider. Training saves lives - and I'm glad your son has a sensible father to help him (and worry about him)  

[Waiex191]

I used my clamp setup with the steel plate and inner tube, plus a little heat. The stuck piston popped out.


All apart. I'm cleaning these up. My kid is helping a friend customize a '78 CB750A and another couple of friends fix a pressure washer.  Lots going on at the hangar.

[Waiex191]

Here is the outside caliper half cleaned up, and the inside not cleaned up yet.


Lots of grunge on the inside caliper half. This was the stuck one.


This one didn't clean up great. Lots of pits.


After I got it back together I topped off the fluid and vacuum bled it.  Rear brakes work well again.


I think I'll reuse my stock lines for the monoblocks.  The FZ brake lines look like the same tech as the old FJ lines.  If I am going to go through the hassle of a fresh line install I'd prefer a two line Spiegler setup.

[Waiex191]

Question for the group: I've been running DOT 3 in all my hydraulics since the beginning. I see my new Blue Spots require DOT 4. Are my old lines ok to use?  I figure I'll install the master first then bleed the system with my old calipers in place. Then I'd drain the system and install the new calipers. That would flush the lines to some extent.

[FJ1200W]

Question for the group: I've been running DOT 3 in all my hydraulics since the beginning. I see my new Blue Spots require DOT 4. Are my old lines ok to use?  I figure I'll install the master first then bleed the system with my old calipers in place. Then I'd drain the system and install the new calipers. That would flush the lines to some extent.

I think you'll be fine, as long as the hoses are in good shape.

I've seen DOT 3/4 that's labeled for both.

Good luck!

[Pat Conlon]

Question for the group: I've been running DOT 3 in all my hydraulics since the beginning. I see my new Blue Spots require DOT 4. Are my old lines ok to use?  I figure I'll install the master first then bleed the system with my old calipers in place. Then I'd drain the system and install the new calipers. That would flush the lines to some extent.

I think you'll be fine, as long as the hoses are in good shape.

I've seen DOT 3/4 that's labeled for both.

Good luck!

I disagree.
Replace your 30 year old oem rubber brake lines. They are long overdue.
The lines may look fine on the outside, but inside not so much.
DOT 3 and 4 are compatible.

[Millietant]

I'm sat in the middle, sort of.....I agree with Pat that 30yr old brake lines "should" be replaced, just as a matter of course, but if you're on a limited budget, then I can understand sticking with the originals for a little while if they were performing OK before you did the caliper swap (but I realise you also might not have that knowledge/experience).

I don't think I could ever "advise" someone to re-use 30 year old rubber brake lines, but I can certainly understand why some people do, if they weren't experiencing problems beforehand.

[krusty]

Not sure if anyone else has responded. That spring you have in your hand looks like the one that goes in the outer end of the clutch piston and around the pushrod from the lever.

[Waiex191]

Not sure if anyone else has responded. That spring you have in your hand looks like the one that goes in the outer end of the clutch piston and around the pushrod from the lever.

Thanks!  I see it now.

[Waiex191]

Question: to rebuild the blue dots, do you need a tool to remove the blue dot?  Is that how the pistons come out from the monoblock?