Seized Float Pins

[gaillarry]

Bringing my 89 FJ1200 back to life. Bike starts and idles fine but bogs down on throttle.  Pulled the carbs and of course they were full of green crap.  Doing a carb clean following the instructions on this site.  Problem is all 4 float pins are seized.  Any tricks to getting them out - as I don't want to break a float post.

[weymouth399]

This has always worked for me
carefully heat the carb base at the float mount (bic lighter will work)
take a automatic cener punch  and drive the pin out  (real easy to break the pin mount) again be carefull
maybe a little wd40 after, it is flamable so no flame
hope this helps Bob

[gaillarry]

Thanks, I'll try that.

[gaillarry]

Used a new Bic lighter to heat up the posts and no luck. Ran the Bic dry. The pin will not move. You can see the crud around the float needle.

I'm thinking of a different way to go.  I can use a cutoff wheel and cut the pin on either side of the float which will release the float. (red lines in attached pic) I'll be left with a short piece of pin in each post.  Using a bicycle chain breaker I can press out the pin.  As I'm only putting equal pressure on one post it should work???

[racerrad8]

The pins are not designed to slip right out. They have a shoulder just below the head of the pin. The must been driven out carefully with a small drift or small automatic center punch (like Bob & I use). No heat should be required to remove them.

The pin is aluminum and since the are similar metal there should not be any corrosion issue between them.

The only time the post breaks off is usually when someone hits the pin too hard and the punch strikes the post breaking off the top/back half.

And FYI, you have probably damaged the float with the heat. There is a thin coating on the floats to keep them sealed and if you have damaged that in anyway, you will have problems with float level.

Randy - RPM

[gaillarry]

I looked carefully at the floats no sign of heat damage.  I made sure to keep the heat away from them.

I'll keep soaking them in PB Blaster !!!

[SlowOldGuy]

One thing I ALWAYS do on a new set of carbs is use soem 600 grit to sand down the float pin slightly so the fit is not as tight.  I've even drilled the float post hole slightly larger so the pins are easier to extract.  Never had any problems with a pin or float falling out.  In fact the post/pin is in a recessed section of the float bowl which will prevent to pin from falling al lhe way out.

I'd rather have a slightly loose pin than a broken post.

DavidR.

[gaillarry]

I got them all out but broke one post.  What's a good adhesive?  I read somewhere about using JB weld with a coating of nail polish.

[SkyFive]

I wouldn't trust an even JB Weld in fuel and vibration. If I couldn't find a replacement carb I would be thinking solder or weld with a very low temp aluminum rod. Do you have a picture of the broken post?

[Marsh White]

I wouldn't trust an even JB Weld in fuel and vibration.

I can confirm 100% that JB Weld does NOT stand up to gasoline - despite claims that it does.   Sorry, I don't have a recommendation for you.

[gaillarry]

I read somewhere (possibly the xs11 forum) that JB weld with coating of nail polish will work.  The nail polish acts as a sealant.

[RichBaker]

There are several chemical-resistant epoxies available, I'd use one of them....

[gaillarry]

Here's the easy way with no chemicals/adhesives:

[mst3kguy]

didn't carey use jbweld on a post?

[pdxfj]

I second Marsh's comment that JB Weld IS NOT fuel proof.  I took the carbs apart on the '86 I had and was greeted with a broken post that had JB Weld on it.  The JB Weld was no longer rigid.  It had turned into a soft spongy material.

You can weld the post back on.  You have to use a very pure Aluminum rod.  Then use a dremmel to grind the welds down a bit so you can get float bowl back on.  I did not weld this, Brian Hunt found someone who was up to the task.  This was the second carb we had taken him.  Even though the area where the seat resides is a little melted/distorted it does not leak.  I believe this is in part to David using slightly larger o-rings in his kits for the needle & seats.