I could really do with some advice please.......

[flo3flo]

Hello all. I'm new to this forum and have recently come to own a 1991 FJ1200 3XW. I have previously owned other bikes such as a CBR1000F, TL1000S, R1200GS and XJ600 (not diversion). I am fairly proficient with mechanics having completely stripped and rebuilt the TL1000S but haven't worked on carbs for about 15 years so could do with your help.
The back story with my FJ is that it belonged to my dad. He bought it 22 years ago and rode it as his daily commuter until he died 10 years ago. He also owned a TL1000S which I inherited. It wasn't running at all so I rebuilt it. However, I hated riding it, so sold it 5 years later and bought a BMW. (I sold that too last year). My dad's brother inherited the FJ and rode it occasionally. Unfortunately he too died a year ago and he left the bike to me. I had it transported to my house in Cornwall from Surrey a few months ago but it is not running. I have lots of memories attached to the bike which is why I am determined to get it back on the road, but there's so much wrong with it. Warped discs, siezed brake calipers, oil leak down the left side of the engine block and right clutch cover, crumbling plastics, rusted solid rear shock, split air intake rubbers, dead battery and clogged carbs.
Obviously most of this can be replaced with new stuff but will be expensive so I have to drip feed the parts as I can afford them.
I have had the carb bank off and stripped and carefully cleaned them. The diaphragms look ok. All the smaller jets were solid but are now clear. I measured the float heights. All of them were way out. Around 3mm each! I measured them to the rounded edge according to previous posts from RPM on this forum. But how could they have been so far out?
Everything else looked fine and once cleaned, were reassembled and put back on the bike. I reset the air screws to 3 turns out and set up my dummy fuel tank. It started first press of the button! It was rough but she warmed up and I balanced them out with my Carbtune Pro. I actually got her running really smoothly. After cooling, I checked all the spark plugs which looked spot on.
The following day I could smell petrol and a puddle under the centre stand. The overflow tube from carb #1 was dripping. Have I missed something? Worn petcock or petcock valve seat O ring maybe?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers.

[stou]

Did you checked the float level? Or maybe the needle valve is stuck open?

[Tuned forks]

Kinda looks like a float needle valve is stuck open or is not sealing.  Is it financially feasible to buy the carb rebuild kit from RPM since you are over the pond? 

Joe

[Pat Conlon]

You did not mention if you replaced all the o rings in the carbs when you cleaned them.
You should have, but, if you did not, you need to....dried out float needle seat o rings is a common cause of leaks. Spend $24 for this kit. It is a bargain
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit

Next, is a leaking diaphragm on your fuel pump.
With the key off, fuel tank full (for the head pressure)  on the fuel pump, remove the fuel line that goes to the carbs (output side of the fuel pump)
Now, do you see any fuel dribbling out of the fuel pump?
You should not.
If so, the fuel pump diaphragm is knackered and is letting fuel thru to the carbs when the bike is not running. This is bad and bad things happen when FJ's piss fuel on the floor of your garage.

Replace the fuel pump.
Do not buy a cheap eBay Chinese fuel pump. Ask me how I know this (Thanks again Robert)
Buy a oem Yamaha pump for best quality.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=YamFPump

Welcome to our Forum.  Cheers. Pat

[flo3flo]

Did you checked the float level? Or maybe the needle valve is stuck open?

Yes I checked all 4. I will remove the carbs again and check the needle valve in carb #1. Thanks

[flo3flo]

Kinda looks like a float needle valve is stuck open or is not sealing.  Is it financially feasible to buy the carb rebuild kit from RPM since you are over the pond? 

Joe

I'll check out the RPM kit. Thanks.

[flo3flo]

You did not mention if you replaced all the o rings in the carbs when you cleaned them.
You should have, but, if you did not, you need to....dried out float needle seat o rings is a common cause of leaks. Spend $24 for this kit. It is a bargain
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=carbkit

Next, is a leaking diaphragm on your fuel pump.
With the key off, fuel tank full (for the head pressure)  on the fuel pump, remove the fuel line that goes to the carbs (output side of the fuel pump)
Now, do you see any fuel dribbling out of the fuel pump?
You should not.
If so, the fuel pump diaphragm is knackered and is letting fuel thru to the carbs when the bike is not running. This is bad and bad things happen when FJ's piss fuel on the floor of your garage.

Replace the fuel pump.
Do not buy a cheap eBay Chinese fuel pump. Ask me how I know this (Thanks again Robert)
Buy a oem Yamaha pump for best quality.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=YamFPump

Welcome to our Forum.  Cheers. Pat

Thanks for the advice. I'll do these checks. Thanks.
I did replace the O rings but they were from a box of assorted O rings that I've had for a few years so will look into the kit from RPM.
I'll test the fuel pump too. Cheers.

[flo3flo]

Hello again. I took Pat's advice and tested the fuel pump. Indeed it does dribble fuel out with the slightest movement of the dummy tank that I have rigged up to my garage ceiling. There is only 1 litre of fuel in the dummy tank so I'm assuming a new pump is needed. Where is the best place to buy one please?

Also, the mysterious oil leak down the left hand side of the head and cylinder block seems to be coming from the two domed head nuts at the left hand end of the head. Although I'm yet to degrease it and apply some talc to show exactly where.

Cheers from West Cornwall, UK.

[Pat Conlon]

I posted a link on buying a new genuine Yamaha oem fuel pump. That is my #1 recommendation.
Still you have a couple of options, 1) buy a used pump, but it's a gamble 2) keep your pump and install an electric solenoid shut off valve. See reply #8 http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16529.msg168445#msg168445 See reply #30 http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17737.msg180060#msg180060

Re:oil leak. The domed nuts that torque the head down to the cylinder block are called acorn nuts. These should be torqued down to 25 ft.lbs. Check to see that they are properly torqued.
Here's where I can't remember which side.....on the 2 outside acorn nuts...either on the right side or left side (as you sit on the bike) there is a copper crush washer that seals the pressurized oil passage.
If it's on the left side, that could be where your leak could be coming from.....if the copper crush washer goes on the right side, then that's not the problem.
Others will chime in on the correct side for the crush washer. Perhaps a new crush washer is neeeded?
Also, on the valve cover bolts, is common for the rubber grommets to dry out and lose their seal. It is a very hot environment down there for rubber parts. Consider getting some fresh grommets.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2GH-1111G-00-00&cat=39
If they do leak, get new grommets and by all means do not attempt to over torque these valve cover bolts.
They have a shoulder on them and they will break.

[flo3flo]

Thanks for the info Pat.
I'll probably go for a new OEM pump. My pump also makes a loud clicking noise when the ignition key is turned on. It starts fast then slows down after a few seconds and stops.
I'll check the torque on the acorn nuts too. I can see copper coloured washers on the right hand two nuts, so I assume they must be keeping a good seal. The leak is definitely coming from the left two nuts which look like they have steel washers underneath.
I have already bought a new set of valve cover grommets (from the US) so I'm confident the oil is not coming from there. A new valve cover rubber gasket has also been fitted. I've checked there's no pinched areas so I'm sure that is good too.
Thanks again.
Flo.

[red]

flo3flo,

Please be aware that the carb(s) overflowing can also dump straight fuel into the crankcase, where it will mix with the engine oil.  If you smell fuel in the crankcase oil, DO NOT run the engine until the fuel problem is sorted out, and you have changed the diluted oil for good fresh new engine oil.  Diluted oil can ruin your engine.  Do not use the diluted oil for any vehicles; dispose of the diluted oil properly at an oil disposal site.  My local landfill takes used oil, and some auto parts places may take it for recycling.
.

[flo3flo]

flo3flo,

Please be aware that the carb(s) overflowing can also dump straight fuel into the crankcase, where it will mix with the engine oil.  If you smell fuel in the crankcase oil, DO NOT run the engine until the fuel problem is sorted out, and you have changed the diluted oil for good fresh new engine oil.  Diluted oil can ruin your engine.  Do not use the diluted oil for any vehicles; dispose of the diluted oil properly at an oil disposal site.  My local landfill takes used oil, and some auto parts places may take it for recycling.
.

Good point. Thanks Red.

[Tuned forks]

and based upon my 1990, the pump always starts our clicking away quickly, slows down and eventually stops.  It's supposed to stop when the needle valves shut.

Joe

[flo3flo]

and based upon my 1990, the pump always starts our clicking away quickly, slows down and eventually stops.  It's supposed to stop when the needle valves shut.

Joe

Thats good to know....thanks.
Also, I have just placed my tank back on the bike and plumbed in the old pump and no dribbles at all.
I can only imagine that my dummy tank hanging on the cieling with a metre of fuel hose is too much gravity for the little pump diaphragm. 

[ribbert]

and based upon my 1990, the pump always starts our clicking away quickly, slows down and eventually stops.  It's supposed to stop when the needle valves shut.

Joe

Thats good to know....thanks.
Also, I have just placed my tank back on the bike and plumbed in the old pump and no dribbles at all.
I can only imagine that my dummy tank hanging on the cieling with a metre of fuel hose is too much gravity for the little pump diaphragm.  

Glad you got it sorted. Yes, the clicking is normal and yes, the tank was too high.

Just for future interest, it is often said if the fuel pump leaks when switched off, the pump has had it. My observations are they can to do that at a very early age. Mine was doing that 200k ago and is still on the bike. If I pulled the hose off tomorrow (and bypassed my cut-off solenoid) it would leak now. I have also seen it on others at relatively low mileage.

I should add, I install low pressure pumps on other vehicles as well and have been for decades. I use the same pumps on cars and bikes. A low pressure fuel pump is a low pressure fuel pump.

Noel