Cam timing

[iridewheelies]

Heres some pics of the cam timing intake first. Bike on side stand. Seems a half tooth off or something they definitely arent even. Cracking her open to do some work this winter I want to port it, big valves but I'd have to find a good cam seats springs. Anyone ported their head?

Need to get the front end r1 swapped. I had a 2000 r1 I bought for dirt cheap I should have parted it out. It ripped.

The bike ran pretty damn good but it was getting symptoms of tight valves. The lobes look alright.
This bike is an 85 1100 I assume, it has a lot of compression hand cranking it. I can move the chain pretty well with the cover off but there is no rubbing on the guide 

[iridewheelies]

Nullify those pictures. These are better lol. Still doesn't seem right. Intake first. Stretched chain?

[CutterBill]

Just buy the Yamaha Service Manual. It will show you exactly how to time the cams without guesswork. About $90 from Yamaha online.
Bill

[iridewheelies]

Thanks your comment had a lot of valuable information. I wont be disassembling for a while but soon enough I'll get my hands on a good manual. A manual only tells you so much. Maybe I should pull the tensioner sometime and see how far out it is. Is there a reliable pin count method? I seen a post about a few holes in the cam caps and some dimples that would show thru the holes. I was going to adjust the valves but the timing could be off the chain may be stretched, so I may be in for a top end refresh. Any advice is greatly appreciated like I said the bike ran pretty decent it made good power and the compression is pretty great turning by hand. U can hear the air compressing

[FJ_Hooligan]

How far off are the dots in the holes of the #3 cam caps?

[racerrad8]

You are a tooth off on the crank (1/2 tooth on the cams). It is a challenging thing to install the cams properly.

Yes, there will be some chain stretch, but that can be adjusted out using the adjustable Slotted Camshaft Gears.

BTW, what are you referring to with "cam seat springs"?

Randy - RPM

[iridewheelies]

I am referring to performance cams, big valves, upgraded springs for more lift ect. I'd either have to cut the seats or get new ones installed..
I wanted to make the bike pick up some power this winter. For clarification, I have never taken the cams out, I haven't done anything this is what it looked like when I took the valve cover off lol

[racerrad8]

Understood.

The valve seats can be easily opened up for the oversize valves.

Let us know,  we are a Web Cam dealer and we have all of the other parts; oversize valves,  proper springs,  better valve stems seals and on & on.

Someone has had the cams out,  they were most likely not delivered by Yamaha in the condition.

Randy - RPM

[iridewheelies]

I dont think it's been opened up for many years. The guide bolts on top were insanely tight and made the distinct sound of braking loose. I drilled 2 of the ignition stator cover bolts they were insanely tight lol it's got 12k miles on clock but it has the squealer mod so i have the speedo cable out. I use my phone for a speedo haha I need to bring a compression tester home from the shop and test.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Exhaust cam looks slightly advanced but not too bad. 

As Randy said, that can be adjusted with slotted cam sprockets.

What are the symptoms of tight valves you mention in your first post?  Have you measured the clearances yet?

[racerrad8]

And with the cams in that position,  the timing mark on the crank rotor?

Randy  - RPM

[iridewheelies]

For the symptoms the bike began hard starting when warm/hot. For example at the gas station, it would crank and crank. Turn the key off and back on try again itll start. The last time I put gas in it, it made a pretty bad backfire out of the exhaust like a gun shot. Battery is weak I know that. Sometimes it'll crank and wont get spark but that's only after sitting a few weeks. I'm betting that the valves are pretty tight. I don't have a set of feeler gauges at home. My bro has them. I'll check the mark on the rotor

[iridewheelies]

Been busy working. Hell. It was 65 outside today, would have been a great day to cruise. Anyways, I'm not rushing into this build, because I still dont know what I want to do with the bike. Here is the ignition coil rotor, double checked made sure the cams were in same position. Is it just me or does this ignition look new lol

[racerrad8]

You need to rotate the crank around twice and align the "T" mark with the line on the front pick up coil.

That establishes TDC and then you can determine the Cam timing.

Randy - RPM

[iridewheelies]

What's the best brand repair manual to get? Any pdfs out there? In the meantime I will probably determine tdc through the plug holes... again I'm in no real hurry the bikes put away for the winter. Just want to familiarize myself with the engine, and decide the best course of action... thanks for all of the directions. A compression test will give me the best idea on whether I'm going to tear down and refresh. Odds are I may be down on a hole or two. Give me some time and I'll come back with some solid numbers, from valve clearance to comp. And timing, with #1 on tdc. Thanks guys.