1986 FJ1200 Flickering Gauges - Possible Charging Issue?

[iWant2RideMyBike]

Hello All!

I recently bought my first FJ, and man am I loving it! However, there is work to be done. My main concern right now is that my gauges flicker erratically (the tail light too sometimes). I'm concerned this could maybe be part of a larger electrical issue. I posted a video last night of it idling after taking her on about a 10 minute ride to get her warmed up a bit. In the video you'll see her idling alright, but the gauge back lights are flickering quickly.....until they don't. Then they'll be consistent like they should be....until I give her some throttle. Then they'll begin to flicker again and the idling speed will drop some and she almost sounds like shes going to stall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDsCedAP8PE

It doesn't stop there though. In this next video I took of her idling, you'll again see the gauges flickering with and without some throttle applied. Then, I kill the motor at around 20 seconds. You'll notice that as soon as the motor is killed, the gauges STOP flickering and become constant. And then.... and this is where I fear a charging issue could come into play... when I try to restart the motor (NO CHOKE).... She doesn't want to turn over, even though she's just come off a 10+ minute run!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDsCedAP8PE

However, she will start if I apply the choke, but when I push it back in, it'll idle down and act like its about to die from low idle speed. This doesn't happen if I take her for a spin on the highway.

Any ideas at to what could be causing this or things that I should check out first?? I have a multi-meter and I just went and took a reading after not starting the bike since in 12 hours. Without the key in, the battery read 12.67 Volts. Then, when I placed the key in and turned it on, it wen't down to 11.89 Volts. Then when I tried to turn her over, it dropped down to 9.8 volts. It's a chilly morning, but I didn't think that would affect the battery THAT much because it's not THAT cold out! Is it time for a new battery? Do you think I have a charging system issue? Am I crazy?!? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

[iWant2RideMyBike]

WHOOPS! I accidentally posted the 1st video twice! Here is the link to the second video where I attempt to restart her. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILMrKRCs_f8

[red]

Gabe,

Instrument lights flickering as a unit will often be a flaky ground issue at the gauge cluster.  Clean and secure the factory grounds, and feel free to add an extra grounding wire or two from the frame to the gauge cluster, where the cluster will be grounded normally.

There are two ends to each battery cable.  Make sure that both ends of each battery cable are shiny-clean, everywhere the metals contact each other, and secure.  Replace any frayed or damaged cables, of course.
.

[ryanschoebel]

Watching the restart video, I dont think thats a charging or battery issue.  The bike cranks fine, and strong. Try giving it just a touch of throttle when you do that next time, and if it works, I would look at the carbs. If it was a battery, you would see a slow, harsh crank, as I have on both of my bikes, until I replaced both battery and alternator.

[iWant2RideMyBike]

Gabe,

Instrument lights flickering as a unit will often be a flaky ground issue at the gauge cluster.  Clean and secure the factory grounds, and feel free to add an extra grounding wire or two from the frame to the gauge cluster, where the cluster will be grounded normally.

There are two ends to each battery cable.  Make sure that both ends of each battery cable are shiny-clean, everywhere the metals contact each other, and secure.  Replace any frayed or damaged cables, of course.
.

Red,

I will be sure to check for possible ground issues at the gauge cluster. The terminals and contact points on the battery are very clean and the cables all seem to be in good condition. However....I tried what Ryanschoebel suggested, about giving it a touch of throttle when starting to see if it helped. It didn't, but once again pulling in the choke got her to start right up. She idled for about 30 seconds, then the idle dipped too low and she died. So I pulled the choke in again and got her up, let her run for about 4 of 5 minutes... and wouldn't you know. She dies again right when I'm about to ride...

So, I go to restart her, and suddenly she the starter starts sluggin down until all I can her is audible clicks from the starter. I break out the multi-meter to check the voltage. Battery is resting at 12.67 volts again, however when I hit the starter button THE VOLTAGE DROPPED TO 4.56V and it stayed there until I released the button. At which point the voltage would go back up to the 12.5V+ range. So I'm thinking that the battery is possibly the main culprit here. I'm gonna go buy one and install it to see if that helps. I'll update once I have it installed. Fingers crossed that it makes a difference.

- Gabe

[ZOA NOM]

Only some of the back lights are flickering, indicating a vibration as the cause. If ANY lights are steady, the voltage delivery is fine. I would inspect the gauge cluster and re-seat your lights.

[iWant2RideMyBike]

UPDATE

So, I did buy a new battery since the one I had in the bike wouldn't start it and I thought for sure that it must be bad if it's dipping down to the 4 Volt range. I properly charged the new battery with a 2 Amp output battery charger/maintainer. Once it was finished, I installed it and made sure to clean the terminals/connectors with a wire brush just to be thorough. She hopped to life very quickly when I tried to start her, although I still had to use some choke.

However, to my great disappointment, the lights still flickered and she still didn't hold the idle well after a minute of running. So, I suppose that attempting to charge the old battery first would have been a less expensive way to see if it would help. I guess you live and you learn. I did take the side panels off and the gas tank. I plan on going over the wires and looking for anything out of the ordinary, and if I can figure out how to get behind the gauge cluster, I'll try to reseat the lights.

Lastly, there was a bit of information that I left out initially that may have helped me navigate this issue better. One of the reasons why I thought maybe I had a battery/charging issue is because even after letting the bike idle with some choke for 5+ minutes, it will slowly dip down in revs until it dies. That is unless you drive her around, and then after about 5 to 10 minutes of riding, she'll idle happily at 975 to 1000 rpm. BUT, at one point the original choke broke and this slide style choke was used a replacement. The original choke seemed to kind of click and secure itself in place if pulled it out, but the one the previous owner installed just moved freely. There seems to be some resistance when pulling the choke out, so if it isn't physically held in place it will slide back in slowly. I'm now wondering if I'd have better results with warming her up if the choke would actually stay where I put it. So, I ordered a new choke assembly from the RPM website. I wanted the original one anyway, not this jerry-rigged temporary solution. I have high hopes that the new one will help the bike warm up better. If not, at least I have the original choke back. lol

Sorry for the novel, thanks for reading!

[Pat Conlon]

Aaaaagh....the infamous RED PLUG (were we not just talking about this?)




Look inside...

[iWant2RideMyBike]

Pat! Infamous red plug?? What is that plug responsible for, and what makes it infamous? Also, where is that red plug located?! I'll take a look at it after work today and see if there's anything wrong with mine.

[Pat Conlon]

That is the plug carrying the charging current from your generator and it's located under the left side panel. It may be red, or sometimes white.
You gotta take the plug apart to see any damage.
Remind me, what did you measure as your charging voltage to the battery?
3000 rpm @ 14.2 - 14.6 volts you are good.

[Bill_Rockoff]

It's under the left-side cover, between the alternator and the battery.

It's responsible for the charging voltage (~14.5v +/- about 1.5v) (in the thick red wire, I think) and also the field voltage (brown wire, I think.) I don't have my shop manual handy, but I think that means that all the electrical power produced by the alternator goes through that connector via that red wire.

It's infamous because this current makes the connector very hot, which melts it and causes it to make lousy contact, which causes it to run hot and melt the connector, which causes it to make lousy contact, etc. Also, since it makes lousy contact, the second wire used to regulate the output voltage also makes lousy contact, so the voltage regulator sees a lower return voltage and in turn puts out higher voltage. This may be part of why these bikes overcharge their batteries and boil them dry (one of the common trouble areas.)

Cleaning the terminals with baking soda is probably helpful, so is replacing the connector.

There is also an "adjustable voltage regulator" mod that helps.

Welcome aboard!

[Tuned forks]

OP, the RPM replacement choke cable assembly does click into various positions as you hoped.  You will like it.

Joe

[iWant2RideMyBike]

That is the plug carrying the charging current from your generator and it's located under the left side panel. It may be red, or sometimes white.
You gotta take the plug apart to see any damage.
Remind me, what did you measure as your charging voltage to the battery?
3000 rpm @ 14.2 - 14.6 volts you are good.

Pat,
I'm not sure that I checked the correct cords. I haven't put the tank back on yet so I didn't fire her up. (It's unbelievably hot and muggy here in the Twin Cities today so I don't feel like being out side too much!) But I checked the voltage 3 ways. Mind you that she hasn't run in 2 days.

The battery read....
- 12.68 Volts at Rest
- 12.08 Volts with Ignition On
- 10.58 Volts (wouldn't go lower than this) when Cranking the Engine

I'll post pictures of the the wires I was lookin at once they send to my email.

[iWant2RideMyBike]

It's under the left-side cover, between the alternator and the battery.

It's responsible for the charging voltage (~14.5v +/- about 1.5v) (in the thick red wire, I think) and also the field voltage (brown wire, I think.) I don't have my shop manual handy, but I think that means that all the electrical power produced by the alternator goes through that connector via that red wire.

It's infamous because this current makes the connector very hot, which melts it and causes it to make lousy contact, which causes it to run hot and melt the connector, which causes it to make lousy contact, etc. Also, since it makes lousy contact, the second wire used to regulate the output voltage also makes lousy contact, so the voltage regulator sees a lower return voltage and in turn puts out higher voltage. This may be part of why these bikes overcharge their batteries and boil them dry (one of the common trouble areas.)

Cleaning the terminals with baking soda is probably helpful, so is replacing the connector.

There is also an "adjustable voltage regulator" mod that helps.

Welcome aboard!

I see, thanks for the info! I have yet to purchase the shop manual, haha, I'll do it soon though. I think mine may be alright, but I'm so unfamiliar with the bikes wiring since I've only had her for a little over 2 weeks. It's a brand new battery so the terminals better be clean, ha! Thanks for the welcome!

[iWant2RideMyBike]

OP, the RPM replacement choke cable assembly does click into various positions as you hoped.  You will like it.

Joe

Joe,
Thanks for letting me know! It'll be here on Wednesday, so I can't wait to install it!

- Gabe