Ignition Coils

[Pat Conlon]

Look closely on the airbox boots you will see an arrow. Align the arrows so they line up with the dots on the airbox thus, the boots will  line up with carbs...

Now, once you get the airbox box in, let's see if you can figure out how to connect the crankcase vent hose to the airbox.....

On second thought....never mind, throw that airbox far far away....

[ribbert]

Look closely on the airbox boots you will see an arrow. Align the arrows so they line up with the dots on the airbox thus, the boots will  line up with carbs...

I've never seen arrows, but these are the indicators for lining up the boots, they are eccentrically mounted so as you rotate them their position changes.





It is a difficult enough job with everything aligned, but if not, near impossible.

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Noel....I knew someone had that picture, I just could not remember who....

How come I can remember the lyrics from a song in the 60's, but I can't remember why I walked into the kitchen...? 

Cheers

[Sparky84]

To grab another beer, Pat

Just go with the flow.

[ribbert]

....I knew someone had that picture, I just could not remember who....

You could always go out on a limb and put it in the files! 

Noel

[AppleJack]

So, I've found something but don't understand what I've found? 

The side stand switch definitely does not work any more, checked it a dozen times with ohmmeter and it is intermittent at best.  Checks open circuit unless you hold it part way.  What does this mean?

The schematic I have (FJ1100L / FJ1100LC) shows the side stand switch open and the relay normally closed.  Is that condition with side stand up or down?  Bike running or not?

Would any SPST ice cube relay work as a replacement? 

I jumpered the side stand switch wires to the relay and still no spark, so now I suspect the relay

Here's hoping I finally have this figured out.  I'd like to keep the safety interlock function but would gladly scrap the whole thing just to get it to run...

[Pat Conlon]

When the side stand is down, the cam on the side stand pushes in plunger on the switch and 'opens' the circuit.
When side stand switches fail, they tend to always fail in the open position. (i.e. open all the time)  

Therefore, if you want to bypass a faulty side stand switch, you want to 'close' this circuit.
Follow the switch wires up to the side where there is a plug. The male prongs on the plug on the engine side of the plug (not the female on switch side) can be easily jumped with 2 small spade connectors connected with a short piece of wire.
Do not cut the plug, just jump it to close the circuit.
This is easily reversible if/when you get a new side stand switch.

Hope this helps.

[AppleJack]

Yes, that's exactly what I did, but still no spark 

Now i suspect the relay, any suggestions as to a suitable replacement for this relay?  TY

[Pat Conlon]

Before you get to the relay there are 2 other circuits you need to isolate
1) the neutral circuit
2) the clutch safety circuit.

Only when all 3 safety circuits (sidestand, clutch and neutral) are taken out of the equation do you think of the problem with the relay.

Can you still get a oem relay?
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1985/fj1100n/electrical-1

[RPM - Robert]

The bike will not crank at all if one of the three safety loops is not functioning properly. Since the bike is cranking and not getting spark, I am going to go out on a limb and say your problem is not the sidestand switch.

[AppleJack]

Understood on the side stand.  I will get to it later after I get it running.  For now it's jumpered @ the connector. 

The neutral light comes on with the key & rear wheel spins freely, and no spark whether or not clutch lever pulled in?  I'm thinking 4U8-01 relay??


Or does this (no spark) occur because of the other relay up under the front of the fairing?  What does if do exactly? 

[Sparky84]

Or does this (no spark) occur because of the other relay up under the front of the fairing?  What does if do exactly? 

Has it got a "coil relay mod"?
Maybe that's not working and why you don't have spark or the supply to it has a blown fuse or not connected at all!

Just a thought

[AppleJack]

Does not have the mod, but does show 10.3 and 11.5 volts on R/W wires to the coils - battery is 13.1 volts with Fluke DMM

[Pat Conlon]

Jon, the safety switches interrupt your starter motor, so if your starter motor spins and the engine turns over, but you have no spark, the problem is not the safety switches.

[AppleJack]

Thanks again to all who have hung in there with me on this! 

Today, I decided to go back to the basics - A wise man mentioned to me the other day that in order to have spark, you start troubleshooting at the generator

And it looks like there's a problem but wanted your feedback to see if I'm on the right track -

Ohmmeter checks per the service manual across the six diodes don't look good to me: I've got A,B, and C as the solder connections; D the large red wire, and E the screw on the brushes holder - Brushes look new btw, plenty of length

From E (the screw to the brushes holder) to B, C, D check open both polarities

A-B 400 ohms one way, and 440 with meter leads reversed

A-C 440 ohms and 430 ohms

A-D open both ways

Stator coil spec is 0.2 ohms and mine checks 0.32 ohms - 60% discrepancy

Or is there a better check of the output of the generator?