My fj1200 Wheel Mods 1992 fzr1000 front 1988 fzr 1000 rear Finished

[ccsct203]

I finished my mods today.
1992 fzr 1000 front wheel with 2000 R1 front calipers and 2000 ducati front rotors with Pilot Road 2 Tire 120/60/17
1988 fzr 1000 rear wheel with Braking rotor with Pilot Road 2 Rear Tire 180/60/18
I'm looking forward to bleeding the brakes and breaking in the tires checking all the bolts changing the front and rear sprockets 

[Dan Filetti]

Looks sharp!

Well done.

Dan

[Mark Olson]

that looks nice and clean, good job

[fj1289]

Very nice! 

What master cylinder are you running for the brakes?  Did you do the two line setup for the brakes (double banjo at the master)?

Any upgrades to the forks yet?  Noticed the rear shock reservoir. 

I'm looking forward to bleeding the brakes and breaking in the tires checking all the bolts changing the front and rear sprockets 

Well hurry up and enjoy the ride!   

[Travis398]

very nice 

[Firehawk068]

That is one sharp looking FJ. I wish mine would look that good once I'm finished with her.

[carsick]

Those white wheels are bitchin! I'm on a similar mod path and am very excited as well to give it a test run. Hey, remember to break those tires in easy, learn from other's mistakes!

[ccsct203]

thanks guys for the feed back.
I bled the brakes flushing out my "super blue" fluid with a clear brake fluid. 
The master cylinder is oem to the bike with the split at to same location as stock.
I want  switch to a different front MC but I'll have to do some research on what to put on.
I used the link http://www.fjmods.btinternet.co.uk/Pictures/Genesis.jpg for the upgrade but I found one error in it.
Maybe i misunderstood but i had to use two of the rear left spacers... one on each side. one in the oem left location and one between the right bearing and the rear disc brake bracket.
There is no "oil seal" other then the seals on the bearings on the right rear side unless I can source on from another bike. the rear wheel is the 88 fzr and the bearing od is the same as the stock fzr1000 bearing but I had to get a bearing with the 20mm id as the fj1100 had.
if anyone knows a oil seal which will fit let me know.
The front forks are 1988 fzr1000 with progressive springs and 20wt oil. I think i'm going to have an issue with dive under braking. I still have to mod the top triple clamp for the fj1100 ignition switch which i don't like the look of but both bike use the same part and no way to get around the fzr1000 part.
The rear shock btw is a fox. really adjustable for everything.

The other mods i did are:
wiseco 10.5 to 1
megacycle midrange cams w/adjustable sprockets
manual timing adjust
titanium retainers
ape springs and head bolts
new oem tank and tail
plus plus plus

[Fred]

Looks sharp! Nice work!

[blackboat]

Being in the middle of a similar swap (YZF600 rear, FZR1000 front, R1 blue dots on existing stainless lines, R1 master cylinder) I have but one suggestion: Use some blocking inside of the calipers and bleed the brakes before installing the front wheel. For a change I came up with this plan before I started bleeding the brakes. Armed with a 30cc syringe and a piece of tubing I tried to force fluid in from the caliper (worked to a point), then used the syringe as a suction unit (far better; the line doesn't pop off under too much pressure). Never having bled brakes in either fashion before, I had a rare case of foresight that it might not be pretty, and left my newly painted wheels inside. And yes, made quite a mess of it for a bit. Bike unharmed, but the wheels would have been mucked up if present, same for the brake pads.

Just a bit of warning from yesterday's experience for whoever is searching for this next.

Otherwise, nice job; glad to see someone is getting close to rolling again.


Rob

[ccsct203]

how was the master cylinder swap on your bike?

[ccsct203]

Looks sharp! Nice work!

a lot of planning, rebuilding and painting went into that swap
still have the top clamp to finish

[blackboat]

how was the master cylinder swap on your bike?

If that was aimed at me, the master cylinder swap was simple; unbolt old, bolt on new. Covered bike with drop cloths made from a couple of Hefty bags before swapping. Another bit of foresight that proved to be a good idea. I still need to do a bracket for the cup, but am waiting until I can get it back together enough to sit on it and get it placed where it pleases me (e.g., so I can see the dash and it doesn't hit anything lock to lock). I have stainless brake lines in place in the factory config, but am unhappy with the angles and lengths (wee bit snug and stressed when twisted to fit the R1 whoa parts). Will be OK for testing, but am going to replace with two single Antec/eBay lines for peace of mind. I have the stock rubber R1 lines also if the fork droop test proves too much for the current set up. Nice thing about having bought a sealed complete front system: Have all the parts and it hasn't been open to air for months seizing up. Worst thing will be bleeding the brakes yet again, but now that I figured out a vacuum method, should be lot cleaner now that I have a practice run accomplished.

Rob

[ccsct203]

how was the master cylinder swap on your bike?

If that was aimed at me, the master cylinder swap was simple; unbolt old, bolt on new. Covered bike with drop cloths made from a couple of Hefty bags before swapping. Another bit of foresight that proved to be a good idea. I still need to do a bracket for the cup, but am waiting until I can get it back together enough to sit on it and get it placed where it pleases me (e.g., so I can see the dash and it doesn't hit anything lock to lock). I have stainless brake lines in place in the factory config, but am unhappy with the angles and lengths (wee bit snug and stressed when twisted to fit the R1 whoa parts). Will be OK for testing, but am going to replace with two single Antec/eBay lines for peace of mind. I have the stock rubber R1 lines also if the fork droop test proves too much for the current set up. Nice thing about having bought a sealed complete front system: Have all the parts and it hasn't been open to air for months seizing up. Worst thing will be bleeding the brakes yet again, but now that I figured out a vacuum method, should be lot cleaner now that I have a practice run accomplished.

Rob

it sounds like the upgrades are endless for the fj.
I'll have to look into it and the cost.
I still want to do the following:

xenon headlight
rewire head light -easy
led tail light-easy
fjr1300 FI system-semi
spin-on oil filter-easy
alarm system-easy
new corbin-easy
have my exhaust system ceramic coated-easy
cartridge forks-hard
repaint front fender-easy
new zzz chain-easy
new chain guard-easy
plus more

[the fan]

For those of you considering the R6 or R1 14mm master, give the 06+ R6 radial master a try. I just installed one on my YZF in place of the R1 14mm master that I used in the past and the brakes were fantastic. I was surprised that I seemed to gain not only better feel but more power from the new set-up.