mtc maintence and repairs on his new ‘85

[mtc]

Welcome mtc.....You are correct, No fuel filter should be used on the vacuum petcock 84/87 gravity flow FJ's
Make sure your fuel line route is correct. It is counter intuitive.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18286.0

Cheers.  Pat

thanks let's take a look

[Pat Conlon]

Fuel line is incorrectly routed as pictured.

White plugs are common on FJ's due to the vacuum advance
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0

.... however, you are running the Dyna ignition which does not use the closed throttle advance.

[mtc]

Fuel line is incorrectly routed as pictured.

White plugs are common on FJ's due to the vacuum advance
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0

.... however, you are running the Dyna ignition which does not use the closed throttle advance.

thank you thank you for the feedback,i'll fix the lines

maybe i blame not rejetting for the pods, as per PO, , told me he rebuilt and sync the carbs, but i don't think so... i am getting rid of the pods they inhale literally, need to read up on the vacume,

do you know if the stock cdi have the same advance curve that the dyna is so overrated for ? 15 at idle and up to 35 at 2500 rpm for position 1 which is stock 4 valves, and i simply don't want to be stranded nowhere, i did wrap it with foam and mounted it in the tail... thank you rpm for that bit of info i found


and

can i run a stock cdi with the dyna pickup, if yes i might get one as a spare and rid the dyna IF it is overrated

[Pat Conlon]

The early Dyna ignition boxes have a selector switch the user can set to define which ignition advance curve they want to run. IIRC they had 5 different fixed settings. The latest Dyna boxes have the ability to set a custom ignition curve via laptop.
Here is the advance curve on the oem TCI ignition


Note the two different advance curves...the upper curve is the closed throttle (high vacuum)  advance used to flash off unburned fuel, part of the EPA smog regs, also why the FJ plugs look white.

The lower curve is the open throttle advance curve. We commonly advance this factory stock curve 3 to 5 degrees (across the board) via a aftermarket rotor or by elongating (slotting) the holes in the pick up coil mounting plate. My point is, you can safely run more advance that shown on the above table....if you properly jet your FJ (40.0 pilots, shimmed needles and 117.5 mains.) Advancing your ignition without adding fuel will bring on the marbles in your engine. Not good.

I don't know anyone running the stock TCI ignition box off the Dyna pick up coils....others please chime in.

Dyna's work fine until they don't work fine. What causes them to fail? Dunno, but I have my suspicions.
We are aware that FJ's suffer from over charging with spikes in excess of 15+ volts. The oem voltage regulator (VR) goes bonkers. My intuition says that if you want to keep your solid state components happy, like the Dyna ignition, you stabilize the electrical system's charging voltage so you don't get those crazy spikes.
I'm a firm believer of the remote mounted Transpo VR mod. (See the Files) Get that VR away from the effects of engine vibrations and heat. Besides, your AGM battery will thank you.

[racerrad8]

White plugs are common on FJ's due to the vacuum advance

.... however, you are running the Dyna ignition which does not use the closed throttle advance.

I'm standing by the wasted spark that keeps the plugs looking lean. When the plug fires and there is no fuel present, it will burn off the normal carbon deposits left behind.

They Dyna system is still a wasted spark design.

Randy - RPM

[mtc]

The early Dyna ignition boxes have a selector switch the user can set to define which ignition advance curve they want to run. IIRC they had 5 different fixed settings. The latest Dyna boxes have the ability to set a custom ignition curve via laptop.
Here is the advance curve on the oem TCI ignition


Note the two different advance curves...the upper curve is the closed throttle (high vacuum)  advance used to flash off unburned fuel, part of the EPA smog regs, also why the FJ plugs look white.

The lower curve is the open throttle advance curve. We commonly advance this factory stock curve 3 to 5 degrees (across the board) via a aftermarket rotor or by elongating (slotting) the holes in the pick up coil mounting plate. My point is, you can safely run more advance that shown on the above table....if you properly jet your FJ (40.0 pilots, shimmed needles and 117.5 mains.) Advancing your ignition without adding fuel will bring on the marbles in your engine. Not good.

I don't know anyone running the stock TCI ignition box off the Dyna pick up coils....others please chime in.

Dyna's work fine until they don't work fine. What causes them to fail? Dunno, but I have my suspicions.
We are aware that FJ's suffer from over charging with spikes in excess of 15+ volts. The oem voltage regulator (VR) goes bonkers. My intuition says that if you want to keep your solid state components happy, like the Dyna ignition, you stabilize the electrical system's charging voltage so you don't get those crazy spikes.
I'm a firm believer of the remote mounted Transpo VR mod. (See the Files) Get that VR away from the effects of engine vibrations and heat. Besides, your AGM battery will thank you.

thank you thank you, i was wondering why the battery did not have caps, is AGM, good eye, i mounted the dyuna in the back yesterday and padded it up with a cut down yoga mat, idk what my VR looks like tho

[Pat Conlon]

White plugs are common on FJ's due to the vacuum advance

.... however, you are running the Dyna ignition which does not use the closed throttle advance.

I'm standing by the wasted spark that keeps the plugs looking lean. When the plug fires and there is no fuel present, it will burn off the normal carbon deposits left behind.

They Dyna system is still a wasted spark design.

Randy - RPM

When I unplugged my vacuum advance (and capped it off)  I noticed my plugs go from white to a tan color.
I'm currently running with no advance.....Yea, wasted spark helps keep the plugs clean, no doubt, but I think that the closed throttle ignition advancing to 50*btdc (55* with a VH advance rotor) Is causing the white color.
I have wasted spark in my Miata and my plugs aren't white.

[mtc]

Welcome to FJownership. There are a few of us in and around the Los Angeles area. Some active, others lurk quietly and then pop up at rallies. The weather is getting better for some rides so get the safety stuff sorted. Check under the tank. See if the fuel petcock has been wired to keep the elbow in. If not then get that done ASAP. plenty of past posts if you need more info.

thanks did it, you save another fj,

[FJmonkey]

Good fix, that will keep the elbow lock in. Now when you get fuel in the tank and you are ready to connect the fuel line... You should perform the suck test. With the fuel lines all connected properly take the vacuum line from the petcock that connects to the #2 carb boot and suck on it. The petcock has a vacuum powered needle valve connected to a diaphragm. Over time this diaphragm develops small holes. The holes eventually get large enough and the valve stays closed. The frustrating part is, it happens when you need fuel the most, you think you are running out of fuel. You pull over and check. Plenty of fuel. Start it back up and off you go. Then it happens again. Grrrrr.

When you suck on the vacuum line it should feel totally blocked. If you can slowly suck air then you have a leak. Make sure the hose is good by testing it by itself. A small leak may not be a problem, but a leak means you will eventually need to fix/replace it. Now hurry up and get riding while the weather is good.

[Pat Conlon]

Markus, I do believe you have set a forum record

A newbie, only 10 posts in, and you already have him sucking on his petcock.

mtc, no, this is not some perverted form of initiation, although with Monkey Mark, you are never quite sure.

[mtc]

The early Dyna ignition boxes have a selector switch the user can set to define which ignition advance curve they want to run. IIRC they had 5 different fixed settings. The latest Dyna boxes have the ability to set a custom ignition curve via laptop.
Here is the advance curve on the oem TCI ignition


Note the two different advance curves...the upper curve is the closed throttle (high vacuum)  advance used to flash off unburned fuel, part of the EPA smog regs, also why the FJ plugs look white.

The lower curve is the open throttle advance curve. We commonly advance this factory stock curve 3 to 5 degrees (across the board) via a aftermarket rotor or by elongating (slotting) the holes in the pick up coil mounting plate. My point is, you can safely run more advance that shown on the above table....if you properly jet your FJ (40.0 pilots, shimmed needles and 117.5 mains.) Advancing your ignition without adding fuel will bring on the marbles in your engine. Not good.

I don't know anyone running the stock TCI ignition box off the Dyna pick up coils....others please chime in.

Dyna's work fine until they don't work fine. What causes them to fail? Dunno, but I have my suspicions.
We are aware that FJ's suffer from over charging with spikes in excess of 15+ volts. The oem voltage regulator (VR) goes bonkers. My intuition says that if you want to keep your solid state components happy, like the Dyna ignition, you stabilize the electrical system's charging voltage so you don't get those crazy spikes.
I'm a firm believer of the remote mounted Transpo VR mod. (See the Files) Get that VR away from the effects of engine vibrations and heat. Besides, your AGM battery will thank you.

yeah but will all this advancing a few degrees, amount to any performance gains? i guess if ti were new and peewee gleason was piloting, maybe he could have shaved off a 1/10?



dyna just got back to me


Thank you for your interest in Dynatek ignitions. Unfortunately, no, the Dyna Pro Series Crank Trigger will not work with the stock ignition module. It uses a different method of triggering. If we can be of any further assistance, please feel free to contact us anytime.

Scott Valentine
Dynatek
www.dynaonline.com
P-800-928-3962
F-702-399-1431

[mtc]

Good fix, that will keep the elbow lock in. Now when you get fuel in the tank and you are ready to connect the fuel line... You should perform the suck test. With the fuel lines all connected properly take the vacuum line from the petcock that connects to the #2 carb boot and suck on it. The petcock has a vacuum powered needle valve connected to a diaphragm. Over time this diaphragm develops small holes. The holes eventually get large enough and the valve stays closed. The frustrating part is, it happens when you need fuel the most, you think you are running out of fuel. You pull over and check. Plenty of fuel. Start it back up and off you go. Then it happens again. Grrrrr.

When you suck on the vacuum line it should feel totally blocked. If you can slowly suck air then you have a leak. Make sure the hose is good by testing it by itself. A small leak may not be a problem, but a leak means you will eventually need to fix/replace it. Now hurry up and get riding while the weather is good.

thank you thank you, the little secrets that make me safe ... safety first, then when it safe to go fast go fast

[mtc]

The early Dyna ignition boxes have a selector switch the user can set to define which ignition advance curve they want to run. IIRC they had 5 different fixed settings. The latest Dyna boxes have the ability to set a custom ignition curve via laptop.
Here is the advance curve on the oem TCI ignition


Note the two different advance curves...the upper curve is the closed throttle (high vacuum)  advance used to flash off unburned fuel, part of the EPA smog regs, also why the FJ plugs look white.

The lower curve is the open throttle advance curve. We commonly advance this factory stock curve 3 to 5 degrees (across the board) via a aftermarket rotor or by elongating (slotting) the holes in the pick up coil mounting plate. My point is, you can safely run more advance that shown on the above table....if you properly jet your FJ (40.0 pilots, shimmed needles and 117.5 mains.) Advancing your ignition without adding fuel will bring on the marbles in your engine. Not good.

I don't know anyone running the stock TCI ignition box off the Dyna pick up coils....others please chime in.

Dyna's work fine until they don't work fine. What causes them to fail? Dunno, but I have my suspicions.
We are aware that FJ's suffer from over charging with spikes in excess of 15+ volts. The oem voltage regulator (VR) goes bonkers. My intuition says that if you want to keep your solid state components happy, like the Dyna ignition, you stabilize the electrical system's charging voltage so you don't get those crazy spikes.
I'm a firm believer of the remote mounted Transpo VR mod. (See the Files) Get that VR away from the effects of engine vibrations and heat. Besides, your AGM battery will thank you.

yeah but will all this advancing a few degrees, amount to any performance gains? i guess if ti were new and peewee gleason was piloting, maybe he could have shaved off a 1/10?



dyna just got back to me


Thank you for your interest in Dynatek ignitions. Unfortunately, no, the Dyna Pro Series Crank Trigger will not work with the stock ignition module. It uses a different method of triggering. If we can be of any further assistance, please feel free to contact us anytime.

Scott Valentine
Dynatek
www.dynaonline.com
P-800-928-3962
F-702-399-1431

can someone tell me what the white wire is for? running the length of the frame on the right side and  and spliced into the ignition swtich? and back to a fuse and to a harness near the battery?

[Pat Conlon]

The color coded wiring diagram is located in the back of your Owner's Handbook.

Don't have a Owner's Handbook? You need one....lots of good stuff inside.

[FJ_Hooligan]

From your description, it sounds like a new wire to the ignition switch running directly from the battery.  Good that it's fused.

Possibly a fix for a faulty stock wire.