93 head gasket leaking

Paul.1478 · March 05, 2019, 07:54:29 AM

I did not apply the sealant so I am hoping to find the leak at this spot! the more I read about putting the cams back in and timing them the less I want to do it.

RPM - Robert · March 05, 2019, 10:09:40 AM

Quote from: Old Rider on March 05, 2019, 07:36:00 AM
If you did not aply rtv silicone where the 2 red square is it will leak.

You DO NOT need any RTV silicone or anything else on there, we do not use any silicone on any of the gasket surfaces, with the exception of a couple dabs on the exhaust gaskets to hold them in place(not to seal), in any of the motors we build. It is a gasket for a reason it is made to seal with out silicone. If it is leaking it is bad, installed incorrectly, or the mating surface is muffed up.

RPM - Robert · March 05, 2019, 10:12:37 AM

Quote from: Paul.1478 on March 05, 2019, 07:54:29 AM
I did not apply the sealant so I am hoping to find the leak at this spot! the more I read about putting the cams back in and timing them the less I want to do it.

Adjustable cam gears

These will make your cam installation a breeze. We are currently out of stock but have more on the way. They will also allow you to keep the cams in perfect timing as the chain stretches.

Paul.1478 · March 05, 2019, 01:07:23 PM

I was just thinking, could I not just spray soapy water were it looks to be leaking and start the bike up and rev the engine? I would think I would see bubbles if it was leaking before it heated up and evaporated the water.

Paul.1478 · March 05, 2019, 05:11:55 PM

I took the tank off and closely checked around the valve covers. Dry.
checked the head bolts tight. checked all oil cooler hoses dry. Front of motor dry.
Cannot see any oil other then between the head and block on the right side.
I'm open to other suggestion.
I'll upload some
Photos in the am when I get to a computer.

Old Rider · March 06, 2019, 12:25:01 AM

Quote from: Paul.1478 on March 05, 2019, 05:11:55 PM
I took the tank off and closely checked around the valve covers. Dry.
checked the head bolts tight. checked all oil cooler hoses dry. Front of motor dry.
Cannot see any oil other then between the head and block on the right side.
I'm open to other suggestion.
I'll upload some
Photos in the am when I get to a computer.

inspect the plugs and look for oiled plug and do a compression or leakdown test

Paul.1478 · March 06, 2019, 06:07:56 AM

Some photos from yesterday.

Paul.1478 · March 07, 2019, 12:11:39 PM

Well seems my only option is to dig in. I don't think it is going to go away. The Leak is too bad to keep riding it. I ordered everything from RPM, head gasket, timing chain tensioner gasket, new copper washers for where I think the leak is coming from, and the dowel seals. I also am getting the adjustable cam sprocket to make putting it back together easier. I will get it apart this weekend. I will also check the valves while I have the valve cover off, they should be good still from less than 800 miles from the last time. I sure hope this is it and it fixes the leak.

Paul.1478 · March 15, 2019, 07:50:39 AM

I got the head off yesterday. If it was 1/4 inch wider it was not coming off with the motor in.
I also found the problem. The rubber grommet was damaged somehow. Looks like I will also need to sand down and paint a few of the head bolts as well. I am going to polish the head pipes this weekend as well while I wait on the parts to come to put it back together.

Paul.1478 · March 26, 2019, 09:29:43 AM

So putting this all back together when I had a few hrs. Slotted timing chain gears are a big help.
I was just torqueing the cam caps when a bolt broke off in the head.
Robert said you may be able to remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. I don't hold much hope out for that but will try. Likely back off with the head. The worst part is trying to get it out of the frame. Super tight fit. I called a local machine shop the does engines and heads. He made it seem like no big deal, stop by $20-30 and he could remove it as long as I did not break off an easy out in it.
So much for riding it this weekend...

RPM - Robert · March 26, 2019, 10:07:54 AM

The machine shop guy is right, it is no big deal, however, it does not require an ez out to remove.

We have removed a few hundred broken off valve cover bolts and cam bolts over the years. Since the head is broken off and there is no longer tension on the threads, the bolt spins out easily with a small flat blade screw driver or a small pick. If the bolt broke off completely flush, with no edge to catch, it would be a different story, but I have yet to see that happen on one of these bolts.

Old Rider · March 26, 2019, 10:12:40 AM

Quote from: Paul.1478 on March 26, 2019, 09:29:43 AM
So putting this all back together when I had a few hrs. Slotted timing chain gears are a big help.
I was just torqueing the cam caps when a bolt broke off in the head.
Robert said you may be able to remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. I don't hold much hope out for that but will try. Likely back off with the head. The worst part is trying to get it out of the frame. Super tight fit. I called a local machine shop the does engines and heads. He made it seem like no big deal, stop by $20-30 and he could remove it as long as I did not break off an easy out in it.
So much for riding it this weekend...

That sucks ! this is one of the things im starting to worry about when im going to put the head on. I think you can get it out by drilling a hole and use a screw extractor .It is not sitting thight
when it has broken off there is no tension.

Motofun · March 26, 2019, 11:05:00 AM

HINT: When using an easy out get the ones that 4 sides with sharp edges versus the reverse spiral ones. Drill the proper size hole in the sheared off stuck stud and lightly tap the easy out into the hole. These 4 sided easy outs are much more resistant to snapping off and leaving an even bigger problem.

T Legg · March 26, 2019, 12:18:25 PM

I doubt you will need to do this but an old welder friend used to chuck a piece of steel rod in his tig(tungsten inert gas welding)torch handle and touch it to the broken bolt then tap the foot pedal to spot weld the rod to the bolt

Paul.1478 · March 26, 2019, 12:38:15 PM

Quote from: RPM - Robert on March 26, 2019, 10:07:54 AM
The machine shop guy is right, it is no big deal, however, it does not require an ez out to remove.

We have removed a few hundred broken off valve cover bolts and cam bolts over the years. Since the head is broken off and there is no longer tension on the threads, the bolt spins out easily with a small flat blade screw driver or a small pick. If the bolt broke off completely flush, with no edge to catch, it would be a different story, but I have yet to see that happen on one of these bolts.

I'm going to try with the screwdriver. I am going to the hardware store to get the largest flat bladed screwdriver that will fit at lunch. Your right there is an edge but with the luck I have had I doubt it will work for me.

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93 head gasket leaking