Fj1100 oil light only shows when pressing start. Bike not turning over

[Troyskie]

Perhaps when the PO removed the side stand switch there is crud or an unintentional connection/short?

The side stand cable routes from the switch back towards the rear of the bike then up into the loom.

Troyskie

[T Legg]

but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong

that eliminates the starter or a locked engine.check if the starter relay is switching when you try to start it.there is a good wiring diagram in the owners manual if it is still with the bike.  

[T Legg]

Maybe this will help.

[wainot-Phil]

What Troy said,,,,,,I would start with spraying the inside of the Kill Switch with contact cleaner and then  switching the Kill Switch  to  ON and OFF about 50 times or so ,,
I had this happen to me  years ago on one of my FJ1100 Bikes  and it turned out to be the Kill Switch was playing up , strange because I never use my Kill Switch as a rule ,
 

[red]

The kill is on haha this is the first time owning a fj1100 its a project bike at this moment and I'll do what you say red  but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong o o i looked in the floats of the carbs to see if they sticking but they all working fine. Do you think the oil sensor could be causing this if its faulty

Commandershepard,

What we can tell you depends on what you tell us. 

If you can "jump the stator" (starter solenoid?) and the bike runs, then you have an electrical problem, nothing more.  The oil sensor can not be any part of the problem, it is just a float that detects low oil levels.

There is (or should be) a sidestand switch, clutch switch, and a kill switch that can cause the problem, or maybe a bad solenoid switch.  Somebody with a wiring diagram (not me) can probably tell you what each switch should do.  If the correct voltage is coming to the solenoid switch when you press the starter button and it does not work, then the solenoid switch is bad.

[TexasDave]

Thanks Red. Finally someone telling the OP the oil light is not his problem. I think Randy's reply was the same but too succinct.

Dave

[Pat Conlon]

There is (or should be) a sidestand switch, clutch switch, and a kill switch that can cause the problem....

I've been informed that in certain markets (e.g. Australia) FJ's did not come with a side stand switch.

Looking at the pictures, judging by the condition of bike, I would start with a continuity test on the run/stop switch and go from there.

[Sparky84]

The kill is on haha this is the first time owning a fj1100 its a project bike at this moment and I'll do what you say red  but when i jump the stator it starts and runs happily like nothing wrong o o i looked in the floats of the carbs to see if they sticking but they all working fine. Do you think the oil sensor could be causing this if its faulty

Commandershepard,

What we can tell you depends on what you tell us. 

If you can "jump the stator" (starter solenoid?) and the bike runs, then you have an electrical problem, nothing more.  The oil sensor can not be any part of the problem, it is just a float that detects low oil levels.

There is (or should be) a sidestand switch, clutch switch, and a kill switch that can cause the problem, or maybe a bad solenoid switch.  Somebody with a wiring diagram (not me) can probably tell you what each switch should do.  If the correct voltage is coming to the solenoid switch when you press the starter button and it does not work, then the solenoid switch is bad.

Just take your shorting out device with you when you go out, Ultimate theft deterrent.

As Red Said, "bad solenoid switch", you short it and it starts and runs.
Check voltage to it when you press the start button, if you have voltage and solenoid doesn't operate, bingo.
Same happened on the Bermagui manshed day to Mark

I've been informed that in certain markets (e.g. Australia) FJ's did not come with a side stand switch.

Not too sure where 'Austrailia" is but I Fixed it Pat, now you just have to amend dictionary in your phone/tablet so it doesn't happen again.....

Cheers
Alan

[TexasDave]

You will have voltage to one side of the starter solenoid from the battery at all times. Is it possible the starter solenoid is bad? Yes. Is it probable? NO. The control circuit that controls the starter solenoid runs through the start/stop switch, neutral switch, clutch switch and kick stand switch(if you have one) and the red starter button. All these switches must be operable before the solenoid will power the starter. Like Randy said start checking these switches and the power to them first.

Dave

[Pat Conlon]

Thanks Alan sorry about that lads.... I'll have a word with my proof reader....

[Commandershepard]

I cleaned the switches and points and yeah i ment solenoid i might open it up like i did with my old kawasaki and see if the inside warned or dirty. I learnt that from my old man he always fixed his own bikes alot. Im gonna go through all the switches again using a multimeter and this model i have seems to have no stand switch there no wiring to it the old owner said its been sitting for 20years so he wont be surprised if it is solenoid.

[T Legg]

As can be seen in the picture of the repair manual previously posted,the control circuit for the starter is not a continues serial circuit through the kill switch kickstand switch clutch switch and neutral switch to the starter switch.there are three relays (maybe only two if the bike truly never had a kickstand switch)the "starter" relay,the "relay unit" relay and the "side stand" relay.each relay has a set of contacts that are switched when the magnetic coil is energized by have twelve volts positive applied to one side and the other side is connected to ground.the starter relay has positive twelve volts applied to one side of the contacts and one side of the magnetic coil directly from the battery at all times.the other side of the starter relay contacts is connected to the starter motor.the ground side of the starter relay  magnetic coil is connected to the contacts of the relay unit coil.when the coil of the "relay unit" relay is energized the "relay unit"  contacts close and connect the the starter relay coil ground wire to the starter switch which when depressed connects the coil to ground energizing the starter relay coil closing its contacts and connecting the battery to the starter.the magnetic coil of the "relay unit coil has positive twelve volts applied to the coil from the kill switch anytime it is on and the key is in the on position.the ground connection of the "relay unit" relay coil is energized by being connected to ground either through the neutral switch being closed or through the clutch and side stand switches being closed causing the "relay unit" relay contacts to close enabling the starter switch.   the third relay is the side stand relay the positive side of the magnetic coil on this relay is also supplied positive twelve volts from the kill switch however the contacts of this relay remain closed when the coil is denergized and open  when it is energized the opposite of the other two relays.when the coil is denergized and therfore the contacts are closed this relay grounds out the ignition through a wire from the tci unit preventing spark at the spark plugs. if the sidestand relay is energized either through the nuetral switch being closed or the kickstand switch being up and closed the side stand relay contacts open ungrounding the ignition and allowing spark.   so you could read twelve volts positive on the relays but they wont switch until the the connection through a switch or contacts is made to ground.

[Commandershepard]

Hmm that makes alot of sense i know what to look for now   lets say if i can't find the problem in the circuit is it possible to make a separate key ignition one key stays in the ignition for everything and another key to turn on the starter which increase security so people wont be able to steal it easy o o

As can be seen in the picture of the repair manual previously posted,the control circuit for the starter is not a continues serial circuit through the kill switch kickstand switch clutch switch and neutral switch to the starter switch.there are three relays (maybe only two if the bike truly never had a kickstand switch)the "starter" relay,the "relay unit" relay and the "side stand" relay.each relay has a set of contacts that are switched when the magnetic coil is energized by have twelve volts positive applied to one side and the other side is connected to ground.the starter relay has positive twelve volts applied to one side of the contacts and one side of the magnetic coil directly from the battery at all times.the other side of the starter relay contacts is connected to the starter motor.the ground side of the starter relay  magnetic coil is connected to the contacts of the relay unit coil.when the coil of the "relay unit" relay is energized the "relay unit"  contacts close and connect the the starter relay coil ground wire to the starter switch which when depressed connects the coil to ground energizing the starter relay coil closing its contacts and connecting the battery to the starter.the magnetic coil of the "relay unit coil has positive twelve volts applied to the coil from the kill switch anytime it is on and the key is in the on position.the ground connection of the "relay unit" relay coil is energized by being connected to ground either through the neutral switch being closed or through the clutch and side stand switches being closed causing the "relay unit" relay contacts to close enabling the starter switch.   the third relay is the side stand relay the positive side of the magnetic coil on this relay is also supplied positive twelve volts from the kill switch however the contacts of this relay remain closed when the coil is denergized and open  when it is energized the opposite of the other two relays.when the coil is denergized and therfore the contacts are closed this relay grounds out the ignition through a wire from the tci unit preventing spark at the spark plugs. if the sidestand relay is energized either through the nuetral switch being closed or the kickstand switch being up and closed the side stand relay contacts open ungrounding the ignition and allowing spark.   so you could read twelve volts positive on the relays but they wont switch until the the connection through a switch or contacts is made to ground.

[T Legg]

That would be the screwdriver you are now using to jump the solenoid. You just have to find each relay and switch then work your way with a meter through the circuit until you find something that isn't right. start by seeing if your starter relay clicks when you push the starter.

[Mark Olson]

I cleaned the switches and points and yeah i ment solenoid i might open it up like i did with my old kawasaki and see if the inside warned or dirty. I learnt that from my old man he always fixed his own bikes alot. Im gonna go through all the switches again using a multimeter and this model i have seems to have no stand switch there no wiring to it the old owner said its been sitting for 20years so he wont be surprised if it is solenoid.

Greetings , Have you tried to start the bike by pulling the clutch handle all the way to the handle bar and trans in neutral?
                 Are the lights still coming on like the bulb test mentioned before?
                 Have you checked your fuses?
                 Did you disassemble your start button and clean it up?
                 when you jumped your solenoid , did you jump the main power or put power to the solenoid as if coming from start circuit?
               
Being that the bike sat for 20yrs , you will have some problems.. sometimes the relays get stuck and giving them a little whack with the plastic end of a screwdriver wakes them back up.
Using a voltmeter you should be able to trace this down by following your path of power. I see someone posted a schematic already.

Keep charging ahead.