Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

Carbtime
While the woman in the house is away for the weekend i used the oportunity to start with some carburetorporn no i mean Carburetorcleaning in my livingroom    .
the carbs was drained for the winter storage earlier so it was not so bad gas smell.
I started by taking the bowls off but the screws didnt want to come out so i had to drill and use a extractor tool
on some of them.I also had to use a torch flame on some screws   not the best combination when working on carburetors  
When i got the bowls off they loocked good with only some dry rustdirt that was easy to clean.
The rust comes from the gastank before i remowed the rust with mauratic acid inside it and sealed it 2 years ago.
I then started taking off the vakumlids and of cource many of  the screws on them had to be drilled and extracted.
Also the screws inside carburetor had to use extractor tool .

[Old Rider]

 carbporn continues when i got inside i started screwing. I remowed all jets and stacked them in a eggbox to keep the parts orginized.There was a bit of dry rustdust in the jets.I had fun when i dicovered that i must have lost the little O-ring sitting on tip of Mixturescrews.I used 2 hours trying to find it or if it still was inside the carburetors.Then suddely i find it in the eggbox it was like glued to one of the little steel washer so that was 2 hours wasted .
I Took everything outside and sprayed it with carbcleaner in every hole i could find and used a thootbrush to clean up.
Then i took the carbstufff inside again and cleaned second time with some wd 40 and pressurized air and some mild
cleaner fluid.
The Diaphrames looked good only 2 -3 small needle holes i could see .I heard they can be fixed with plastidip i have
some plastidip ,but going to find out more how that is done.

[Troyskie]

Nice work mate 

While you're there, make sure the choke linkages are all tight. A lose link might trick you into thinking you have a blocked choke circuit.

With all the crud in the bowls make sure the little galleries for choke, pilot etc are free of gunk.

You seem very competent so I'm sure you've already checked that.

RPM have the stainless Allen set to replace all the buggered screws (cheap as well even when you include postage)

Troyskie

[Troyskie]

Noel knows exactly what happens when you lose a part

[Pat Conlon]

Old Rider, I like your easy way to drain your carb bowls. (Hose drains)
What fitting did you use the thread into the bowls?
I can't find a metric hose fitting with the correct thread pitch as the oem drain bowl screws.
I'm thinking I'll just have to drill and tap my bowls to get the correct threads for the hose fitting to work.
Really don't want to....

I like the idea of finding the drain hose, opening a valve and draining my bowls, easy peesey.

[RPM - Robert]

Old Rider, I like your easy way to drain your carb bowls. (Hose drains)
What fitting did you use the thread into the bowls?
I can't find a metric hose fitting with the correct thread pitch as the oem drain bowl screws.
I'm thinking I'll just have to drill and tap my bowls to get the correct threads for the hose fitting to work.
Really don't want to....

I like the idea of finding the drain hose, opening a valve and draining my bowls, easy peesey.

Pat...why...?

Just slip your drain hose on the nipple on the bottom of the bowls I marked and open the screw. I think the fuel is going to leak out of the hole once the drain nipple is turned with the fitting O R has

[Pat Conlon]

Hi Robert, yes, I know. I'm just lazy in getting my Phillips up in there to open the 4 drain screws, then, after draining, making sure the 4 screws are tight with no drips.

We all know that fuel dripping under there is not a good idea...right?

Just thinking of an easier softer way to open the drains.

If I were to drill out and tap the screw threads to install a hose barb, I would have to plug the drain port.

Robert, how much $$ for 4 used float bowls?

[Old Rider]

Nice work mate 

While you're there, make sure the choke linkages are all tight. A lose link might trick you into thinking you have a blocked choke circuit.

With all the crud in the bowls make sure the little galleries for choke, pilot etc are free of gunk.

You seem very competent so I'm sure you've already checked that.

RPM have the stainless Allen set to replace all the buggered screws (cheap as well even when you include postage)

Troyskie

I checked the linkages if you mean the ones that pull on the choke plungers and they are thight .What is not so good is that the end of the chokeplungers is worn very thin and should be replaced they cost
about 50usd each so i think its a little expensive i might try to reinforce them another way.
I have sprayed all the passages i could find with carbleaner and compressed air
Thank for telling me about the carburetor screws and o-ring kit  i will order that for sure just trying to think of something more i need in the same matter.

[Old Rider]

Noel knows exactly what happens when you lose a part

Troyskie
thats seems like a 3 to 60 chance to find it.Also remember the carpetmonster .

[Old Rider]

Old Rider, I like your easy way to drain your carb bowls. (Hose drains)
What fitting did you use the thread into the bowls?
I can't find a metric hose fitting with the correct thread pitch as the oem drain bowl screws.
I'm thinking I'll just have to drill and tap my bowls to get the correct threads for the hose fitting to work.
Really don't want to....

I like the idea of finding the drain hose, opening a valve and draining my bowls, easy peesey.

Hi Pat
Those hose fittings i think came with the Dial-a-jet kit that is installed but not sure because it was installed when i got the bike.It Is very easy to emty the carbs just disconnect the hose at the upper fitting
and drain i used a white cloth to drain in and there was alot of rust coming out the first times i drained them because there was rust in the tank at that time.I Wanted to change the thin black fuelhoses that was installed before se pick and tryed with some clear ordinary fuel hose that did not work well because it gets very hot in there so after driving with them just some weeks they turned into hard brown plastic that could have cracked so i throw them away .I them found the yellow hoses wich is special silicone i think and they can withstand the heat much better .I also use a fibreglass heatshield sleve outsde the hoses now.

Rolf

[Old Rider]

Some days ago i recieved the dialboregauge and a new micrometer so i can measure the bore size ,pistonclearance ,taper and out of round more accurate .I have already measured them with other methods.
I have to confess this is a little harder than i first thought but after watching this youtube video im getting better at it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLzMQtJAljg
I have measured a few times but will do some more measuring and post results so far it looks good not over out of round or taper ina inside margin with piston clearance.But it has to be honed more because of
the ridge on top of cylinders .The strange thing is that so far it seems the ridgearea  is almost more narrow smaller diametre ?? i have to check more.

[ribbert]

.....The strange thing is that so far it seems the ridgearea  is almost more narrow smaller diametre ??

That's because it is! (wear makes the cylinder wider)

Noel

[racerrad8]

Old Rider, I like your easy way to drain your carb bowls. (Hose drains)
What fitting did you use the thread into the bowls?

Hi Pat
Those hose fittings i think came with the Dial-a-jet kit that is installed but not sure because it was installed when i got the bike.It Is very easy to emty the carbs just disconnect the hose at the upper fitting
and drain...

Rolf

The Dial-a-jet kit fittings at the bottom of the bowl are open all of the time. The black box added onto the into manifolds have a metered vacuum leak that also draws additional fuel from the fitting & hoses and adds it to the air/fuel mixture after the carbs.

Long story short, those bowl nipples cannot be used as drain screws as they are an open hole.

Randy - RPM

[racerrad8]

I discovered some bad scratches and dent in the oil jet nozzle. It is the inside of the starter chain the toothed side that has hammered the nozzle.

Rolf, I just look at the starter nozzle photos and that is not very bad damage compare to others I have seen. Yes the chain gets enough slack to bounce around and contact the starter nozzle.

At some point (2006-2008ish) in the XJR1300 life span of the engine Yamaha address hard starting cranking issues specifically related to the EFI models. They changed the tooth count of the starter clutch reducing it by one tooth. That increased the torque on the crankshaft to help hard starting issues. That in turn required a shorter starter drive chain. The stock nozzle is 39mm long and the replacement is 21mm long.



The smaller diameter of the start drive gear and small chain meant the chain was now much closer. That meant as soon as the chain stretched, the chain would contact the nozzle. After many, many nozzle failure where it would get torn off and caught in the chain, with the result being a broken chain. Yamaha issues a recall and replacement nozzle.

I have both nozzles in stock, I have used a bunch in my race engine builds where we see the most chain stretch.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Old Rider, I like your easy way to drain your carb bowls. (Hose drains)
What fitting did you use the thread into the bowls?

....Long story short, those bowl nipples cannot be used as drain screws as they are an open hole.
Randy - RPM

Huh? The bowl nipples get sealed.
The drain screw is removed and screw port becomes a hose barb connected to a drain hose.
The only drawback is if I need to check the fuel level. I'm not sure if the fuel level in the gauge will change if I draw the fuel from the hose barb instead of the lower nipple.

Randy, thanks for the update on the starter chain oil jet.
Good to hear the new XJR oil jet is backward compatible to our older FJ engines. Is it plug and play or is there any special machining involved to fit the new jet?

Cheers