Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

So here is another uppdate
here is a little uppdate i have now cleaned and lapped the valves it took alot more time than i expected.I also
checked the valguide clearances and hey are vell innside limit.
I have tested if the valves leak after i have lapped them by first pour soapwater in the combustion chamber then
blow with pressurized air into the inntake and exhaust ports and look for bubbles it did not leak.I did another test
by filling lighterfluid into the inntake and exhaustports  no leaks.But there is a concern and that is that the
seatwith on the valves are on the limit, on some valves they are 1,4mm same as limit.They shuld be between 0.8-1.1mm
im not sure what happens if i dont recut the seats ?.I spoke to a shop that does valvejobs and they was very
expensive about recutting the valveseats.
I have also compared the transmission i bought on ebay with the one i have in my bike.I think i found that the ebay
transmission is a little less worn than mine but still it looks worn i think.But i also found that mine have to be a
fj1100 transmission so someone has changed it or at least the first gear wheel because it does not have a collar
innside the first gear.se pictures.
I checked on parts diagram and only the fj1100 has that firstgear wheel without the collar.Also on all the other
gears there is a grove on the outside on mine this grove does not exist so im guessing hole transmission is from a
fj1100.I have not had any problems with second gear dropping out tough.On my 1100 i had about 30years ago i had
secongear dropping out when hard acellerate.
Now i have ordered another transmission from ebay that looked very nice so hoping to use that one.
Had a look at the crankbearings som of them are scratched.I will do a plastigage test on them later but I wonder if its normal that they are not in angliment i mean placed in the center og its support?

[Urban_Legend]

Hi

With the second gear isse in the 1100's, it is not so much the the gear cluster that is the issue, but the shift forks/yokes. they bend in the 1100 causing the gear to junp. they fixed this on the 1200 with a stronger shift yoke.
As far as I was aware, I thought the actuall gears were the same on the 1100 and 1200.

Mark

[Old Rider]

Hi

With the second gear isse in the 1100's, it is not so much the the gear cluster that is the issue, but the shift forks/yokes. they bend in the 1100 causing the gear to junp. they fixed this on the 1200 with a stronger shift yoke.
As far as I was aware, I thought the actuall gears were the same on the 1100 and 1200.

Mark

Yes that is what i heard that the 1200 has stronger shiftforks that is why i bought the 1200 as i remember it was an expensive repair on my 1100 lots of years ago even if i got a friend of my coworker to do the repair for me.
I did a quick check on ebay to look at pictures of 1100 and 1200 transmissions to compare and it looks like the 1100 doesnt have the grove on outside of the gears.

Quick uppdate today i been at the gas station and washed the cases with degreaser starting to get them ready for paint

[Old Rider]

Small uppdate Not much happening i have painted the cases  head and cylinder with enginepaint .Today the engine parts i ordered from RPM arrived  .Thanks to Randy and Robert for helping out with what i needed and for fast shipping!. Yesterday the second transmission i ordered from ebay also arrived and it looks great much better than the one i ordered from ebay earlier and the one that was sitting in the bike .This one looks brand new so happy with that.
I have also been lapping the last valves ,but think i have to recut the seats because the seatwith is a little to wide and sitting to far down on the valveface.I think i will buy a Neway seatcutter with angle 30 degree and cut the top of seat.

[Troyskie]

 

[Old Rider]

Time for some uppdates.I Here are the parts i ordered from RPM that vill be replaced also replacing the gerabox with longer shiftforks.

[Old Rider]

Here are some picks of the starterchain and camchains .I will replace the D.I.D camchain that i replaced back in june because it seems a little more weak also it is more unstable when lying over the sprockets.It is 1mm lower in profile wieved from side.It is supposed to fit a fj1200 but i dont want to take the chance that it might snap when i rebuildt the engine.
Notice how stretched the old chain in the middle is.The New genuine chain is at top pick the D.I.D chain is at the bottom of the pic

[Old Rider]

here are some picks of starterchain and damper.The old starterchain is a little stretched and it is much more loose and sloppy .Notise how much more i could bend it vs the new chain.

[Old Rider]

Here i did a test of the pistonring engap with the new rings all of the rings had a endgap of 0.20 - 0.25mm the old rings i measured earlier was worn out with endgaps ranging from 0.80mm to 1.15mm on top rings and 0.55 mm to 0.80mm on second ring

[ribbert]

Here are some picks of the starterchain and camchains .I will replace the D.I.D camchain that i replaced back in june because it seems a little more weak also it is more unstable when lying over the sprockets.It is 1mm lower in profile wieved from side.It is supposed to fit a fj1200 but i dont want to take the chance that it might snap when i rebuildt the engine.
Notice how stretched the old chain in the middle is.The New genuine chain is at top pick the D.I.D chain is at the bottom of the pic

Old Rider, Borg Warner make the best chains, I believe that is what Yamaha use from the factory (OEM) They come in both endless and split (rivet link) for a bit over $50 US

Noel

[Old Rider]

Ribbert that is god to know .the chain i bought is from RPM and is the orginal yamaha chain.

[Old Rider]

And now for the big question... have i ruined the pistons im asking because after i had cleaned off the carbon with ovencleaner the piston got a black color.I then tryed many different
metods to get the black stuff off without luck.I then used superfine 2500 grit paper and buffed by hand i got them clean and shiny,but now i started to think that they had a coating that now is gone and mayby they can not be reused ?

[Pat Conlon]

As long as you didn't damage the ring lands and pin bore, I don't see a problem.

[Old Rider]

As long as you didn't damage the ring lands and pin bore, I don't see a problem.

I forgot in the post to say that i was very careful in the ringland zone i used a flat woodstick with the paper wrapped around it then i buffed in same direction as the ring groves.
The ringroves i used a piece of the old composite cylindergasket and scraped the carbon deposits out.The diameter of the piston is still the same . But isent the piston coated from factory?

[Pat Conlon]

I'm not sure, but I don't think so.....the engine experts will advise.

I am a fan of Swain coatings. They have a nice anti-scuff coating they can do on your piston skirts along with a thermal coat they apply to the crown.
http://swaintech.com/advanced-coating-technology/
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/motorcycle-coatings/motorcycle-coatings-price-sheet/

They have an option for thicker skirt coating to tighten up piston/cylinder wall clearances up if needed.

For a street bike with standard compression, the coatings would be overkill, nice to have, but unnecessary.

I sent my oem collector box to them for their White Lightning thermal coating and I can say that coating really works on keeping things cooler under there.