85' 1100 hanging idle

[iridewheelies]

110% of the time, for me, a front end wobble is a worn front tire.

Does your tire have a center tread groove?

For synching, the #2 carb from the left (while sitting on the bike) is the reference carb.  Match #1 to #2, then match #3 with #4.  Use the center sync screw to match the 3/4 pair to the 1/2 pair.

Yea it has a center tread groove. Im not worried about how it rides if i cant get it to idle at the set idle position... pretty discouraged. The o rings i matched looked a little fat but they did flatten up as i tightened the intake boots and should not be leaking at all. Intake boots look great and are not hard. Still don't understand why she wont idle at 1k, besides the carbs not being balanced. Which i am going to clean up my work area, and try again. one noticable issue, when attempting to sync an hour ago all needles were in the area of "leak at manifold or heat riser/late valve timing" nowhere near the green area. I didnt exactly have the sync flat but it wasnt hung up in the air either. First time syncing so yeah im a noob. But i still dont feel like a sync will cure that 2k rpm idle..... should i try ordering o rings that are advertised for these intake boots? The ones i got are the exact same size as the old ones.... could the choke be leaking at the plungers? Might pull the diaphrams loose and see if the choke is closing all the way.... are my floats letting too much fuel in? They are at 21-22mm i didnt even adjust them...

[iridewheelies]

So, 5 minutes later after it is more fully warmed up, the idle is high?

Turn the idle down now that it is fully warm, and use the fast idle while it warms up.  It is not a modern OEM fuel injected engine with a computer controlled idle speed valve — seems like normal behavior to me. 

Thanks for the quick reply. Will try that and let you guys know.

[iridewheelies]

Well i think the high idle is now fixed. Rode it around till idled at 2k, and reset the idle to 1k. Going to ride around town now and see how itll ride outside of the neighborhood. Thank u, i didnt really think of that. I am really mechanically inclined on many and most engines. But a bank of 4 carbs is still pretty new to me.

[iridewheelies]

Looks like turning the idle down when it was "fully warm" and idling at 2k was the fix. I was just over complicating it. Now to retry syncing the carbs. I have the screws at 3 turns out, but it seems kinda sluggish. So before i hook up the vaccum lines, set the gauges to zero right. Should i try to make #2 carb in the green normal zone? Or just base and balance the other carbs off of what the base carb is reading. Thanks again guys. I just bought a 2005 suzuki z1000 for 1000 bucks, and the efi is gonna be nice, but i do like the feeling u get from making a gem like the fjs run like a dream. Just easy for me to get discouraged. Im 18 and havent been working around 4cylinder 4 carb bikes all my life. Lol

[FJ_Hooligan]

Turning the idle adjuster down will increase the vacuum you see on carb #2. 

The adjuster was holding the #2 butterfly open too far.

[Urban_Legend]

I would not worry too much about where the needle sits ( green zone or otherwise) as you are trying to get all the other carbs (1,3 and 4) to match up to the number 2 carb. I know you have been having an issue with the revs hanging, but for syncing the carbs, it is actually easier to get a steady read on the vacuum gauges with the idle turned up a bit ( between 2k and 3 k rpm) don't forget to have a few fans blowing air on the motor. Hope it all works out for you

Mark

[Old Rider]

This might sound funny but when you are syncing the carbs with a vacumgauge you are using the 3 scews in front of the carbs and not the mixture screws on the carbs right?

[Urban_Legend]

That is correct.

[Pat Conlon]

The vacuum balance screws are not in front of the carbs. They are on the throttle shaft beside the carbs.

[aigram]

   Check your vacuum hose to the CDI unit for leaks and also the CDI unit itself. Suck on the hose to the CDI to make sure there is no damage to the diaphragm. You can safely disconnect and plug this hose if you have a leakage there. 
   Regards, Pete.

Hey Pete, where is the CDI unit, and the vacuum advance hose? I think I'm chasing down a vacuum leak as well.

[oldktmdude]

  Check your vacuum hose to the CDI unit for leaks and also the CDI unit itself. Suck on the hose to the CDI to make sure there is no damage to the diaphragm. You can safely disconnect and plug this hose if you have a leakage there.  
  Regards, Pete.

Hey Pete, where is the CDI unit, and the vacuum advance hose? I think I'm chasing down a vacuum leak as well.

The CDI unit is located under the left side cover, attached to the battery box. The vacuum hose is connected to the inlet rubber on number two carb and runs to the CDI unit.  

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Pete and Alex, I seem to recall that when Yamaha went to the digital controlled ignition (DCI)  starting in 1989 they took the vacuum advance out of the ignition box and used a separate stand alone sensor located under the right side of the fairing. The vacuum hose goes from the #2 carb to this remote vacuum sensor under the fairing. The vacuum sensor has wires that send the advance signal back to the ignition box.
I know for sure my previous '92/93's were this way...so I think it started in 1989.

The older '84 to '87's that have the analog transistor controlled ignition (TCI) do have the vacuum advance sensor built into the ignition box, so on those FJ's the vacuum hose runs from the #2 carb to the ignition box.

To test the vacuum advance sensors all you do is unplug the vacuum hose at the #2 carb and suck on it. If you can draw air, then the diaphragm is shot, or you have a leak in your hose. The hose is a easy fix, but the diaphragm.....it depends.

The '89-95 FJ owners are lucky with having the remote vacuum sensor....just order a new sensor. See #24 on the part list: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1989/fj1200w/electrical-2

The '84-87 guys with the TCI built in sensor are SOL. They have to get the ignition box...and no new ones are available.

All is not lost. The vacuum advance has no performance benefits. Just cap off the #2 port and call it a day.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0

[wainot-Phil]

If the idle /Revs  do not change when adjusting any of the 4  Mixture Screws in or out ,,"""Your Carbys  Jets are Blocked """  Strip down and clean all Jets and fuel passages ,, You Balance the Carbs with the 3 Phillips Screw,s  that are attached to the Butterfly Shaft ,,It does not matter what the 4 vacuum readings are , as long as they are all the same ,,,

[oldktmdude]

Hey Pete and Alex, I seem to recall that when Yamaha went to the digital controlled ignition (DCI)  starting in 1989 they took the vacuum advance out of the ignition box and used a separate stand alone sensor located under the right side of the fairing. The vacuum hose goes from the #2 carb to this remote vacuum sensor under the fairing. The vacuum sensor has wires that send the advance signal back to the ignition box.
I know for sure my previous '92/93's were this way...so I think it started in 1989.

The older '84 to '87's that have the analog transistor controlled ignition (TCI) do have the vacuum advance sensor built into the ignition box, so on those FJ's the vacuum hose runs from the #2 carb to the ignition box.

The '89-95 FJ owners are lucky with having the remote vacuum sensor....just order a new sensor. See #24 on the part list:

Thanks Pat, I do know this information, I was referring to it as a"CDI" unit as not to muddy the waters. CDI is a common term used to identify many ignition systems that are not strictly "CDI"
   Regards, Pete.

[Pat Conlon]

Yea Pete, I hear ya, TCI, DCI, CDI, whatever... my point was the vacuum line on the '89 does not run to the ignition box like the earlier FJ's.