Hello and a massive thank you to everyone here [UK]

[itsgotsomelegs]

First of all, I can't say thank you enough for to this forum.  

I purchased an FJ1200 on ebay in February.

It's my first bike and I hadn't passed my test when I bought it.  It's got quite a few miles on it at 89000 and it's a bit rough around the edges, but I don't mind.  It was £771 and had a shed load of history from the last owner who had it since 1994.  He passed away a while ago and it'd been stood nearly 10 years, but his friend got it running before selling.

From day one it's had issues with starting.  From day one this forum alongside the haynes manual has been a massive help.

The first major problem was it had issues starting, sometime it would something it wouldn't.  Cleaned up all the wiring and connectors (lots of green fuzz on the relays etc).  Stripped down both controllers on each side since this forum said the contacts inside tend to go.  Both sides needed cleaning badly. . . still didn't start.  Ended up getting new relays for it. . . . still wasn't always starting.  Should have done this first time, but used a multimeter to test all the wiring and found a couple of cables with no continuity. Opened the loom to find:



Broken cable.  Soldiered it back together and:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFe1qC2auqE

So it was running:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GthkwG5TtE

Changed all the oil and filters, new spark plugs etc.  

Went out for 100 miles the other day and she was sweet as a nut.  Went out for another 100 miles yesterday aaaaaand, she broke down on the motorway  

Pulled over and had a look around.  No leaks, all fluid was still there.  Checked fuel tank, plenty left.  Tried to start her up and she did, but struggled.  Got off the motorway and parked up, had a good look around and just couldn't find anything wrong.  Started her up and she was fine, made it back home as smooth as it got there.  But she was idling badly when I got back.  Someone said it could be a vacuum lock, so cleaned up the tank cap (lost that little ball) but it wasn't that.

Just been out today to start her up and she was suffering.  Would only start with choke out and second it was pushed in, she'd stall.  

Time to bite the bullet, let's have a look at the carbs, on disconnecting we noticed the fuel coming out was cloudy and look what we found:






That's what I pulled out of it!



As of now she's still in bits since I've ordered new carb needles etc.  In fact this ones

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FJ-1200-3CW-1990-Carb-Carburettor-Repair-Kit/131340828000

I've got a 3CV I'm hoping these one will work.  Not much mentions of the 3CW on here, seems to be a german model?

Have no idea how she ran so sweet those 200 miles so well with all that crap in there, but I'm in love and I think I'm already hooked on this biking thing.  It feels like a very forgiving bike for a beginner.



But this forum has been a great source of help.  It's been great for troubleshooting and reading about little tips and tricks.  Thank you all!

[FJ_Hooligan]

What does the inside of the tank look like?

If it's rusty, fix that before you reinstall the carbs.

[Pat Conlon]

At least you fuel pump FJ'ers get the benefits of having a real fuel filter.

Along with a tank wash, You certainly will want to change that old filter out to a new one.

Welcome!  Warms the heart to see a FJ resurrected. Kudos!

[itsgotsomelegs]

What does the inside of the tank look like?

If it's rusty, fix that before you reinstall the carbs.

It looks clean (bar maybe a 5mm spot) but there are obvious problems which can't be seen from looking, it leaked fuel everywhere one night.  Thought it was the carb overflowing but we found a couple of pin holes in the tank and they've been patched.  Today when I've taken off the fuel cap to make sure the breather holes weren't clogged, there was a lot of rust under it.

I guess I should be stripping it and putting in POR15 (another thing I see recommended here) or it's going to get gunked up again isn't it.

[itsgotsomelegs]

At least you fuel pump FJ'ers get the benefits of having a real fuel filter.

Along with a tank wash, You certainly will want to change that old filter out to a new one.

Welcome!  Warms the heart to see a FJ resurrected. Kudos!

It's got a brand new one on.  But I've read here it won't catch everything.  So I guess I'm going to have to sort the tank out.

Only problem is I've got a European trip planned next month, so don't have much time. 

It's been lovely to ride so far, looking forward to taking it over the 100,000 mark 

[red]

What does the inside of the tank look like?  If it's rusty, fix that before you reinstall the carbs.

It looks clean (bar maybe a 5mm spot) but there are obvious problems which can't be seen from looking, it leaked fuel everywhere one night.  Thought it was the carb overflowing but we found a couple of pin holes in the tank and they've been patched.  Today when I've taken off the fuel cap to make sure the breather holes weren't clogged, there was a lot of rust under it.  I guess I should be stripping it and putting in POR15 (another thing I see recommended here) or it's going to get gunked up again isn't it.

itsgotsomelegs,
Welcome to our sandbox!  Pull up a seat, and be among friends.   

Once you get the tank off, remove the petcock and sender, and you can scour out the worst rust by shaking a meter of cheap chain around inside the tank.  Rinse the tank well, and you can kill the remaining (untouchable) rust by homebrew electrolytics:

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

Then proceed with the POR15 operation.  At 89000, the FJ is barely broken in from new. 

Ride long and far,

[itsgotsomelegs]

Red, had a further look at Electrolysis rust removal. . . what a super simple (if not slightly terrifying) way to get rid of it.  I'll have a go with that. 

[red]

Red, had a further look at Electrolysis rust removal. . . what a super simple (if not slightly terrifying) way to get rid of it.  I'll have a go with that.

itsgotsomelegs,

Feel free to experiment with unimportant rusty metal scraps, at first.  Use common steel for electrodes, and a battery charger for power.  Avoid any stainless steels, which may put out dangerous fumes.  If a magnet will not stick, or stick very well, that metal would be stainless steel.  Working outdoors is recommended, or even at the open door of a garage.  Arrange a simple wooden framework on the tank, to hold the electrode inside the tank, away from everything.

Don't forget the mad scientist/wizards' hat.      

[balky1]

Red, had a further look at Electrolysis rust removal. . . what a super simple (if not slightly terrifying) way to get rid of it.  I'll have a go with that. 

If you had pinholes in the tank already, it is possible that some new ones get opened after cleaning the rust.

[red]

Red, had a further look at Electrolysis rust removal. . . what a super simple (if not slightly terrifying) way to get rid of it.  I'll have a go with that.

If you had pinholes in the tank already, it is possible that some new ones get opened after cleaning the rust.

itsgotsomelegs,

. . . and this would be the best time to find and fix those pinholes, not later.  Mark any pinholes by circling with a crayon, and plug each hole with a slim toothpick while the electrolysis works.  Use fine sandpaper, folded in half, around any toothpicks that are too thick; sand them into slivers if need be.  POR15 is made to seal any pinholes, so don't panic.

[Pat Conlon]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m-dNX8Q7Jh4

[PaulG]

It's my first bike and I hadn't passed my test when I bought it..... and it'd been stood nearly 10 years, but his friend got it running before selling.

From day one it's had issues with starting.  From day one this forum alongside the haynes manual has been a massive help.

First bike? Ever?       You seem quite capable in troubleshooting.  I'm jealous.    Its a big bike for a beginner so ease yourself into it.   Things really start meshing together after 6k RPMs.  But by then you are quickly heading towards 100mph. Try and avoid the temptation until you're certain of it's mechanical/electrical state.  Oh and of course to avoid any unfortunate incidents that might happen to you. 

Try and get a GYSM like this. The Haynes/Clymer manuals are riddled with mistakes.

If you haven't done it already get rid of the tires and purchase some quality rubber asap.  Unless the POs friend replaced them already.  I won't bother with the rest as you seem on the ball.   

As far as your Euro tour goes (again jealous... getting therapy for that...   )  take lots of pics or vids and post your adventure.  We love to see (at least I do)  other parts of the great beyond. 

[red]

It's my first bike and I hadn't passed my test when I bought it.

Its a big bike for a beginner so ease yourself into it.   Things really start meshing together after 6k RPMs.  But by then you are quickly heading towards 100mph. Try and avoid the temptation until you're certain of it's mechanical/electrical state.  Oh and of course to avoid any unfortunate incidents that might happen to you.

itsgotsomelegs,

I will second all of that.  Learn how first, and "how fast" will come in its' own good time.  The FJ is "sneaky fast," meaning that you can easily be going half again faster than what you may think.  It can take you straight to jail, really, without trying too hard.

Once you are done with the electrolytics, pull any toothpicks out of the tank, and seal each pinhole with stretchy plastic tape, so the POR15 does not leak out while sealing.

[itsgotsomelegs]

First bike? Ever?       You seem quite capable in troubleshooting.  I'm jealous.    Its a big bike for a beginner so ease yourself into it.   Things really start meshing together after 6k RPMs.  But by then you are quickly heading towards 100mph. Try and avoid the temptation until you're certain of it's mechanical/electrical state. 

It's a hell of a first bike, but feels very forgiving.  I'll be riding sensibly for a while though, like you and Red suggest.  I'm more than aware that I have a LOT to learn about riding before I try and push it.

Got a little bit of experience tinkering.  Between manuals, forums and youtube I'm always happy to have a go at something.

I should have mentioned in the original post, the last owner bought a little book in 1994 and filled it with all the servicing it's done.  Everything down to when he changed bulbs, he clearly loved this bike and loved using it:

[itsgotsomelegs]

Once you are done with the electrolytics, pull any toothpicks out of the tank, and seal each pinhole with stretchy plastic tape, so the POR15 does not leak out while sealing.

I couldn't find any other pin holes and the ones that are there are currently patched with quicksteel epoxy resin.  So fingers crossed that's it.

Just thinking about it, once it's done and I'm ready to pour in the POR-15, do you allow it to go into the overflow and out the breather of the tank?  Just a bit worried I might block something up.