Broke chain, what now?

[ryanschoebel]

MJK, that was part of my original question, but as Pat so kindly helped me realize, its much more cost efficient to simply repair what i have. And Mike, thats part of my concern, but if Pats willing to loan me his tool, Im sure youtube or google can help me figure out how to rivet the new chain on.

Pat, looking at my sprockets ( i removed both from the bike, cleaned and inspected), and both APPEAR to be in very good condition. I mean, Ill pop for the $50 bucks in extra parts if i need to, but would the wearing on the sprockets be obvious?

[Mike m]

That's the issues with these bikes repair records are usually not kept well.I know I got at least 16,000 miles on my chain.it's going bye bye asap

[ryanschoebel]

That's the issues with these bikes repair records are usually not kept well.I know I got at least 16,000 miles on my chain.it's going bye bye asap

That's true. I mean, my bike only has 20000 miles on it. Maybe it's still original chain? I mean, looking at the chain now, it looks fine, just some road grime. I really don't know why it snapped.

[Mike m]

What scenario did this occurs.Cruising accelerating.decelerating.just curious.

[ryanschoebel]

What scenario did this occurs.Cruising accelerating.decelerating.just curious.

Cruising, but at high RPMs.

[Pat Conlon]

....my bike only has 20000 miles on it. Maybe it's still original chain?

The oem Yamaha chain is a very good chain, typically good for 30k+ miles, so a 20k failure is low, but not unheard of...

Ryan, of course you don't 'have to' replace your sprockets, but not knowing the bike's history, assuming that if you think you have the oem chain, you also have oem sprockets.

Again, you will be getting a very good chain, spend the extra and get new sprockets.
You will immediately notice how quiet your drive line will be.
Finally, with new sprockets, you now have options on gearing open to you.

Yes, Utube has videos on how to use the DID chain tool. Center punching those master link rivets is important.

[balky1]

Balky, my bad, I mis understood. I have no idea, it was PO. Pat,no issues.

I actually had a laugh at the first response. 

[balky1]

I've been watching this topic and this scenario has me concerned.a rivot  needs a rivot tool are they costly and what are you looking for in  the rivot to be sure its done correctly as I'm referring to a new chain replacement

Buy an endless one and don't worry about it. Grease the swing-arm pivot points along the way. I bet it is the time for it also.

[ryanschoebel]

Hey Balky, I already bought the other chain, so I'll take my chances. Now, I'm just researching if I want to change my gearing, like Pat suggested. It sounds tempting, seeing as I have everything open, and I know how to do it. Would I need different length chains to change it?

[Pat Conlon]

If you stay in the range of 17/18 front and 38 to 42 rear a 110 link chain will be fine.
Note: That $10 front sprocket from RPM is a special deal, although it's the oem 17 tooth.
If you want a 18 tooth front, its $16 more.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFDS

My favorite combo is 18/40.

[ryanschoebel]

If you stay in the range of 17/18 front and 38 to 42 rear a 110 link chain will be fine.
Note: That $10 front sprocket from RPM is a special deal, although it's the oem 17 tooth.
If you want a 18 tooth front, its $16 more.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFDS

My favorite combo is 18/40.

That 18/40, can almost closely be achieved with a 17/38. Is that more of a low end, or high end gearing? I kinda think I would want a low gearing, for a little more oomph as I take off.

[balky1]

If you stay in the range of 17/18 front and 38 to 42 rear a 110 link chain will be fine.
Note: That $10 front sprocket from RPM is a special deal, although it's the oem 17 tooth.
If you want a 18 tooth front, its $16 more.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFDS

My favorite combo is 18/40.

That 18/40, can almost closely be achieved with a 17/38. Is that more of a low end, or high end gearing? I kinda think I would want a low gearing, for a little more oomph as I take off.

If you ever rode a bicycle with speeds, you can easily imagine what will it bring to you. Smaller front and larger back gives you low end power and less top speed. Larger front and smaller back yields the opposite.

[ZOA NOM]

As a word of advice, always replace sprockets when you replace the chain. They wear together and should be replaced together. Also, 18/40 is perfect.

[ribbert]

As a word of advice, always replace sprockets when you replace the chain. They wear together and should be replaced together. Also, 18/40 is perfect.

That's not just good advice, it's gospel! Sprockets are cheap, chains aren't.  If you don't replace them they will shorten the life of your chain.

I also settled on that gearing (near enough anyway - 18/41) as the best allrounder. Some believe the odd/even combo gives better wear.

You're right, the same result can be achieved with a 17 front, the idea of the 18 is to reduce the load a bit.

Noel

[ribbert]

That's the issues with these bikes repair records are usually not kept well.I know I got at least 16,000 miles on my chain.it's going bye bye asap

That's true. I mean, my bike only has 20000 miles on it. Maybe it's still original chain? I mean, looking at the chain now, it looks fine, just some road grime. I really don't know why it snapped.